• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

M923a1 slave start issues

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
Im looking for some input from the pros here. I have a buddies 923 here for some luxury accessories. The truck has had a slow drain and the bats were dead. The owner slaved oit off its deuce and it fired right up. I go to slave off my 925 and nothing it sparks at the receptacle and when the switch is turned on the truck buzzer wont even come on. I unhook the slave and the buzzer works again but the starter cant quite do it.

The 923 has slaved trucks dozens of times and done very well. My 925 has never slaved a truck since we went to the 2 d8 batteries and got rid of the 4 6tl batteries. So i look at my slave plug and wiring and it seems fine. What am i missing here.

Could i just have my plug wired wrong? Or do i need to change something around only being on 2 batts now?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,095
9,260
113
Location
Mason, TN
The internal cable on the port goes to the + on the one battery that has the + lead going to the starter and the - to the negative main feed. That is how mine is hooked up on the 8D's
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
Test your slave socket with a meter.
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
Yes sir, that needs to be done also. One question on the receptical, is the inside ground or the outside surface. The sparking is whats odd when both trucks are 24 volt.

The 923 does have a master cut off switch that has me suspicious as well.

on edit well simp i can confirm that my lead to the starter is not sharing the same terminal as the positive slave.
 

Attachments

tobyS

Well-known member
4,820
815
113
Location
IN
I've seen evidence of arcing and corrosion at a few close contact areas in the truck and the jumper. ONe place had only 1/8" and any wetness could flow a low current. Now I clean all terminals and use black silicone to make sure I have at least 1/2" from conductor to conductor, especially in my jumper.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,820
815
113
Location
IN
Yes sir, that needs to be done also. One question on the receptical, is the inside ground or the outside surface. The sparking is whats odd when both trucks are 24 volt.

The 923 does have a master cut off switch that has me suspicious as well.

on edit well simp i can confirm that my lead to the starter is not sharing the same terminal as the positive slave.
The inner stab is the positive, but use a continuity tester to confirm it. The arcing you hear may be a loose or corroded connection, does not have to be a short. With dampness, the painted surfaces that are supposed to be non-conductive, become conductive over short distances. Clean the terminals and make sure you have full surface to surface contact. I use washers to spread the pressure out. Use black silicone to block a short flow path....it's non conductive.
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
Thank you sir. I agree the terminals are much to close in my big slave its 35 footer the small slave has larger ends on it with the cucv plugs wired to them.

On a side note. Inside the 923 with the 6tl i see the batteries have cooked the bottom of the seat more than once. I layed rubbed over it last time ot was here but i want to fix it for good and not just half ass it. That said i think i will use 1/4 square bar and bend it around the outside edge of the box and use 3/8 inch foam seals and take the hinge and clasps off and remount everything 1/4 higher

my 8d batteries dont touch the lid but they are **** close. What i really want to do is move the batteries out of the cab allowing me to run air ride seats for driver and passenger.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,095
9,260
113
Location
Mason, TN
Thank you sir. I agree the terminals are much to close in my big slave its 35 footer the small slave has larger ends on it with the cucv plugs wired to them.

On a side note. Inside the 923 with the 6tl i see the batteries have cooked the bottom of the seat more than once. I layed rubbed over it last time ot was here but i want to fix it for good and not just half ass it. That said i think i will use 1/4 square bar and bend it around the outside edge of the box and use 3/8 inch foam seals and take the hinge and clasps off and remount everything 1/4 higher

my 8d batteries dont touch the lid but they are **** close. What i really want to do is move the batteries out of the cab allowing me to run air ride seats for driver and passenger.
Wheelspinner has a battery relocation box for sale. You can use the horse stall matting that is 3/4" thick and cut it the size of the battery box and lay it on top.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
312
83
Location
Livonia, MI
I was being the smart a$$, actually. It's more of an inside joke.

You can have sparks if a large voltage level difference of correct polarity though, just not a scary level such as if polarity reversed.
 

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,592
2,052
113
Location
Sunman Indiana
...on edit well simp i can confirm that my lead to the starter is not sharing the same terminal as the positive slave.
Sooo... is your slave plug polarity reversed, or only 12 volt, or both? Either way glad to see you or the trucks weren’t hurt!
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,820
815
113
Location
IN
Two trucks came with the terminals nearly burned off from the seat bottom.

I've used 8D 1400 cca in about 6 trucks. I cut out the hold down loops. Then I use 1/4" wood under them. The old thick bottom wood then is used as side and end spacers. I use wood on top then, to keep the seat bottom from coming down and have had to wrap a couple with strips of inner tube to keep them insulated. That 1/4" sheet sold at the farm store works well also. if really tight, use a plastic 2 liter cut up for an insulator.
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
We run 1/4 inch wood under them and 1/2 inch on top with 2 decent sized ratchet straps running accross them. After some of yalls ideas i may now notch wood around the terminals.

Its a shame the 8d's wont fit in the tool box. That would be perfect.
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
Well Simp good job. I just switched over the slave cables on the batts and it fired right up. Why it would matter is beyond me. It was still 24 volts in my head at least.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
Your lucky you did not have an explosion or worse.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,820
815
113
Location
IN
Your lucky you did not have an explosion or worse.
Yes. Exactly. Bet there was a big arc when connecting. I would like to have an ammeter on it.

How did it not drain the battery when the negative terminal was connected? I thought the outer part was grounded, so would be direct short.
 
Last edited:

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,592
2,052
113
Location
Sunman Indiana
Luckily other trucks batteries where dead as a doornail, my guess?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks