brazengoat06
Member
- 362
- 2
- 16
- Location
- Tulsa, OK
Yes when I do that it just self checks again
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
If a solenoid is bad or "open" the ECU will fault out and turn off the the led indicators as soon as the ignition is turned on. If the highway led is blinking, when the supply tank reaches 115psi the system should do the first pressure check, if the 5L fault is then active it is because the pressure read too low. Maybe a dirty PCU cartridge and check the axle vent tubes during the "pressure check" (1.5 seconds) for air blowing out. This is an axle air seal leak.good call. one tested at 47ohms and the other 2 tested open. ill see if I can run some of them down. thanks
Added to friend list....If a solenoid is bad or "open" the ECU will fault out and turn off the the led indicators as soon as the ignition is turned on. If the highway led is blinking, when the supply tank reaches 115psi the system should do the first pressure check, if the 5L fault is then active it is because the pressure read too low. Maybe a dirty PCU cartridge and check the axle vent tubes during the "pressure check" (1.5 seconds) for air blowing out. This is an axle air seal leak.
There are 2 grounds on a M-939 PCU solenoid pack. See AXTS-0015 "2017" on Dana.com
Diaphragm could be bad, or seat corroded. No orings in there.also what fails in the wheel valves that cause them to leak? Oring?
During an inflation check for air coming out the axle vent tubes, this is a hub air seal leak. The engine driven compressor has a very low output at idle so if you can run the engine at WOT when inflating. Wheel valves can be an old diaphragm or rusty seat that can be cleaned and the diaphragm can sometimes be oiled and massaged. If the system reaches Highway pressures and the valves won't close, the issue could be temperatures below 20F, you can loosen the WV lid screw a few turns and re-tighten and check that they now close. If they just leak down overnight check the internal seat.ok replaced the faulty solenoids and system functions. however it cant seem to inflate the tires. I do have a leaking wheel valve that will get fixed but also hear a lot of air movement in the rear hub area. cant tell if this noise normal or a hub leak. any tips?
also what fails in the wheel valves that cause them to leak? Oring?
Take a pair of Visegrips and pinch that hub supply line off to see if it fixes your problem.Can't get may system to inflate past 28 psi. Then as the system shuts off the left front bleeds down to 18psi. I rebuilt that air valve with no resolve. I do have a rear axle hub leak, is that enough to prevent inflation past 28psi?
If you are inflating at idle, yes a hub leak can be a problem. It is recommended to inflate at full throttle when possible. If a wheel valves will not close at 28psi the valve diaphragm may be bad but it would have to be really bad or very hard. More likely it could be a restriction in the Hub or air lines from the hub to the QRV. Remove the wheel valve control line from the hub and blow compressed air through it If it is not blowing out the QRV snorkel freely then that is a problem.Can't get may system to inflate past 28 psi. Then as the system shuts off the left front bleeds down to 18psi. I rebuilt that air valve with no resolve. I do have a rear axle hub leak, is that enough to prevent inflation past 28psi?