crzyxj
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So are both primary and secondary supposed to be 120???
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M923A2 CTIS Problem
- Thread starter MarcM35A2
- Start date
74M35A2
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Basically yes.
- 649
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- Broad Run VA
My truck airs up much better if when first started I up the idle to about 1000-1100 rpm. If I do not do that my ctis sometimes goes to all flashing before it is complete. Like said...at an idle there is not enough air to make the system happy. I never start driving my truck until the system is fully charged and I get that first initial blow off, meaning it is done checking and full.
crzyxj
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So how do I get both primary and secondary to the same pressure? They worked well when I drove them in the 90's lol.
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They will be the same pressure since they both are fed by the wet tank. Not all gauges read the same.
Stellaevil
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The sensor in the wet tank is really just a switch. It should close around 115 psi and open back up when it drops to 85 psi. Even if the switch is closing the wire going back to the ECU may be open. Disconnect the switch and short the pins on the harness side, the PCU should start clicking immediately. Possible Issue: Bad Switch, Low Supply Pressure <115, bad wire in the harness.
aziator
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Glad this thread is back up near the top, I need to start trouble shooting mine again (never did get it working, I think it is electrical as I have never heard it even do a pressure check).
The other question is it is worth trying to make the system work with HEMTT wheels and 16.00's?? Has anyone rigged up a system to work?
The other question is it is worth trying to make the system work with HEMTT wheels and 16.00's?? Has anyone rigged up a system to work?
Stellaevil
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The larger wheels will only be a problem during an inflation. If the compressor output is low such as at idle the system may log a slow inflation fault. Just run the engine at high idle or higher.
aziator
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The plumbing is different as well, or so I am told. It may take a few different fittings or hoses to get it to work.
Stellaevil
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Your best bet might be to update the valves and hoses the FMTV version and get rid of that crappy metal tube.
aziator
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Yeah, need to take a look at how they attach to the wheel and how hard it would be to make the hubs work with the different valves.
- 649
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- Broad Run VA
So here is a new one. Recently I have noticed that the regulator on one tire is actually getting pushed off of the air line coming out of the hub. This tire holds air and has never been an issue. Thoughts? I took it off and put a little lube in the regulator but have not done a re check.
- 649
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- Location
- Broad Run VA
So I decided last night to check them all and then test the manual valve stems. This one tire I have never had an issue with and never needs air, sprayed this goo out of the valve stem. Has no distinct smell. Thought maybe oil and water?? But does not stink.
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Those seals aren't the greatest and get loose over time, allowing the wheel valve assembly to slide outwards as you've seen. If it comes off like you have shown, it should give you the 5 blinking lights on the CTIS computer.
I think some people have used short pieces of heater hose to replace the seals. I found an idea on here where someone drilled a hole in the shield outboard of the wheel valve and put a back up bolt that hits against the inside of the wheel so that even if the seals get loose, the valves can't get pushed outwards. If you need a picture of it, I can try to remember to take one for you tonight.
I think some people have used short pieces of heater hose to replace the seals. I found an idea on here where someone drilled a hole in the shield outboard of the wheel valve and put a back up bolt that hits against the inside of the wheel so that even if the seals get loose, the valves can't get pushed outwards. If you need a picture of it, I can try to remember to take one for you tonight.
- 649
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- Location
- Broad Run VA
Yes, get the blinkers after this happens. Great idea on the bolt. I have just been disconnecting the ctis box after air up. BUT...that seems to disable the high speed light as well as the governor on the rpm side.
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Take a flaring tool and flare the end of the tubing just enough to keep the nut from sliding off.
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That looks for all the world like tire SLIME used on bicycles...
Stellaevil
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With some creativity you can adapt the FMTV wheel valve to the 939.
With that valve added you should not need a counter weight. If it does have some shake your weight is in the wrong spot and should be opposite the valve on the wheel face