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M923A2 loosing fuel prime overnight

dougnash

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Long Island NY
So I got most of the job done.

I still have to replace the return fuel line and tube as well as remove the original lines.

The filter bracket was too low so I had to flip it around and also had to drill new holes in the mounting plate on the truck to shift it over about an inch.

The one fuel filter was too close to the pipe for air intake.

I also found several cracks in the original fuel line and plenty of rust and sediment in the old fittings on the canister.

I did this yesterday and tried to start it today and it fired right up first time.

Very happy with results.

Duel spin-on fuel filters, new fuel lines and Ted’s tubes are must have upgrades if you ask me…
 

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TedCat

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Saline Mi
Hi Kyle. I can have a set ready to ship later this week. I sell the kit for $250. That includes
-1 pickup tube and barb adapter
-1 return tube and barb adapter
- enough stainless steel antizeize/sealant to complete the job
-shipping

PayPal friends is my preferred method of payment.

I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.

What kind of truck are you installing them in?

Ted
 

kungfu dave

Member
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Location
Charlotte, NC
Did you replace the fuel return line? I think that is what it is called. Mine cracked and I bought a nylon replacement. Trying to find someone who has used this part before carving up my original one. Thank.s
 

TedCat

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Saline Mi
Did you replace the fuel return line? I think that is what it is called. Mine cracked and I bought a nylon replacement. Trying to find someone who has used this part before carving up my original one. Thank.s
When I send out the tube kits I suggest replacing all fuel lines with Parker Pushlock brand hose. It meets all requirements, is easy to use and very easy to repair in the field if that ever happens.

However the nylon has its benefits as well. The downside of using the original tubes is the inverted flare fittings are not as easy to find parts as the JIC fittings.

The engine already has a barb that is compatible with the pushlock. Carefully cut the old hose from the frame off without scratching the barb fitting and that end is ready. The tank end will require something like a ln inverted flare to NPT or JIC adapter then a barb into that.

What variant is your truck?
 

kungfu dave

Member
68
2
8
Location
Charlotte, NC
When I send out the tube kits I suggest replacing all fuel lines with Parker Pushlock brand hose. It meets all requirements, is easy to use and very easy to repair in the field if that ever happens.

However the nylon has its benefits as well. The downside of using the original tubes is the inverted flare fittings are not as easy to find parts as the JIC fittings.

The engine already has a barb that is compatible with the pushlock. Carefully cut the old hose from the frame off without scratching the barb fitting and that end is ready. The tank end will require something like a ln inverted flare to NPT or JIC adapter then a barb into that.

What variant is your truck?
20221008_191852.jpg
Mine is an M939A2 w/the ROPS cab. I was asking if you have ever installed one of these.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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I have installed many. Very easy to install. Not much to remove, just depends on what other things are bolted to the engine. No reason to carve anything up.
 

kungfu dave

Member
68
2
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Location
Charlotte, NC
It just looked like there were a lot of line that were over the line in question. It just seemed like it would be easier to cut the cracked line out. I had hoped to repair the crack but I could not get a solid option so bought the new one.
 

kungfu dave

Member
68
2
8
Location
Charlotte, NC
Unfortunately the line itself is cracked, not one of the round openings. (I don't know what they are called) It is actually cracked right at the base of the final round opening so I don't think either of those options would work. Please correct me if I am mistaken. Thanks for the help!
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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No way to repair them, tried on multiple times. The 6mm banjo bolts are soft. Tighten just enough to seat the sealing washer....the little looped copper deal....or they WILL snap off. Don't reuse the seals and it's OK if they distort a bit when tightening. When installing, move the loop part to the right so it is resting against the line, this helps to keep the seals from moving/twisting.
 
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