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M923A2 Muffler repair/replace?

Madderoftime

New member
41
0
0
Location
Montrose,MI
If going to a straight pipe is there a source for the flanges? Seems like a pipe from the bottom flex el to the top would be best instead of 2 parts. 4" I think it is.
 

Capehenery

Member
257
1
18
Location
Virginia Beach
I replaced mine with a Donaldson in mine It was almost an exact replacement. Ill look for the info and repost soon.
If you check with most any trucking supply or fleet supply they will have the 4 and 5 inch fitting to adapt most any muffler.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
RE: NHC250 Engines

I have learned a few things about the NHC 250 that really should be a sticky
for all new owners. You MUST do the mandatory visual eyeballing of the insulation
that is around the Main power feed lines, + and -, from the battery to the starter,
checking for insulation wear close to the left rear of the engine block, right where it is
impossible see, and right where most guys will say; "It will be OK, no need to pull those
cables and visually check every square inch
", that once they see all the work it will take,
to do it RIGHT, which is a LOT of work, they simply say, well, it ain't broke so ....

( PS a good quick repair for that is to disconnect the wires at the starter and
slip a piece of Dishwasher drain hose (5/8" ID I think it was) slip
that over the cables covering the bad spot tell replacement.)

THEN;

I have learned that right after checking and fixing those issues you must pull
the muffler and top pipe and inspect all mechanical connections. I was FLOORED at what I found
when I pulled mine. It could have fallen off and hit a motorcyclist or car or who
knows what as I rolled down the road. I instantly replaced the topmost outlet pipe AND the muffler
once I saw what you can not see unless you pull the muffler and inspect all surfaces under
those mechanical clamps.

The coupling bands hold water, lots of times salt water, and this rusts things into pieces.
You can NOT see the damage unless you pull the top pipe and the muffler, and, you
have to disconnect the +and- wires at both ends and pull and push and make SURE
you look at every square inch of the wire insulation looking for wear as well.

Been there seen that and I try to tell all when I can.

Mark my words.
 

hgun

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
196
357
63
Location
Leechburg, PA
I tried going to a straight pipe on my A2 I cut off the flanges off the old muffler and welded them to the straight pipe had to modify the top muffler bracket. It sounded great at idle. Once you pressed the pedal oh my it rattled my brain. Took my wife for a ride and she said pay the 300 for a new muffler. the new muffler was the same size, But I remember the top flange being a little shorter the the original one. And then I had to put the top bracket back the way it was. Hope this helps.
 

Carlo

New member
1,364
20
0
Location
palazzago italia
I've had a straight stack on my A2 for 1 year now and I'm now looking at returning to the stock muffler. I pull APC's on a 3 axle trailer and it's just to noisy in the cab even with ear plugs. I loved the increase in low end torque I picked up but I use the truck to pull heavy loads and the noise is just to much.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,409
2,503
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
I tried going to a straight pipe on my A2 I cut off the flanges off the old muffler and welded them to the straight pipe had to modify the top muffler bracket. It sounded great at idle. Once you pressed the pedal oh my it rattled my brain. Took my wife for a ride and she said pay the 300 for a new muffler. the new muffler was the same size, But I remember the top flange being a little shorter the the original one. And then I had to put the top bracket back the way it was. Hope this helps.
Just think if you would have went shopping at SS you would have saved 100 bucks.
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
120
63
Location
Gray, GA
Just think if you would have went shopping at SS you would have saved 100 bucks.
I like the muffler I bought from you. The bottom is domed out instead of in, so it can't hold water. Much better design than my original.

It has a better sound too. It doesn't sound so tin can-ish, for lack of a better word.
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
120
63
Location
Gray, GA
This is the only one I have right now. I can take some more when I get home.

Both ends of this one are domed outwards, where my old one had the top domed outwards but the bottom was inwards. This created a place for water to stand. If water is going to get in I'd rather it stand in one of the lower pipes than the muffler. I drive mine enough that this won't be a problem anyways but it's piece of mind.

Actually, after looking at the picture you can't see what I'm talking about. I'll take better ones when I get home, lol.

20150419_224509.jpg
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
120
63
Location
Gray, GA
I'll also add that as you can see, this is completely CARCed up and ready to install. No modifications needed, just bolt and go. Don't forget the 2 gaskets.
 

Alexsha

New member
318
3
0
Location
Cache Valley, UT
Oddly I have the same muffler. Domed out on the top and bottom. Water will still pool in the muffler and rust it out. This is due to the angle the muffler sits at. Always best to not get water in there in the 1st place.
 

Carlo

New member
1,364
20
0
Location
palazzago italia
Oddly I have the same muffler. Domed out on the top and bottom. Water will still pool in the muffler and rust it out. This is due to the angle the muffler sits at. Always best to not get water in there in the 1st place.
Rain caps fix this. A1's don't have them as A2's but the A2 will fit. All my trucks have rain caps.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,409
2,503
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
Yea the after market mufflers can hold water in the top seam and they are not painted. The ones for sale in SS are the better ones I think and were not after market but NOS. For all those that bought from me Thanks again. The pic of unpainted is after market and has the lip where water can sit. The one for sale is green NOS and has bubble out on both ends and the pics of it show both ends.
 

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therooster2001

Active member
824
44
28
Location
Colorado
Can't find an answer by searching, but mine is a bit rusty even with the bubble it's the sheathing which is only welded in several spots. Would JB weld help finish the job? I also need to paint my replacement tan. Should I use engine paint? I would think that Behr would not hold up to the heat. Suggestions?
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
120
63
Location
Gray, GA
Can't help you with tan but I painted mine with high temp flat black grill paint. The muffler will be black but you can paint the guard whatever color you like.
 

Jayco36REQS

Member
300
2
16
Location
Orlando/FL
I've got a NOS Muffler for sale if anyone needs it.... Dommed at both ends, OEM Green CARC and ready to install. .
$250 plus shipping to you takes it.

If interested PM me.
 
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