M925A2 Delco Style Alternator

[Andrmorr]

You may want to look for a smaller wattage heater if 1500w gets the cab hot quickly and short cycles.

Since you are idling your truck anyway what about running a coolant line in/out from the engine and just powering a small fan to blow thru a heater core?
Steady low/med heat, would use 24v (no inv), and low drain for batts...Plus you don't have to listen to (or pay for) high idle all night...

The other thought was maybe put overdrive pulleys on the alt so you get hi idle perf at low idle...even at highway speed the engine turns well below alt speed limit so it shouldn't be a problem going down the road...

 

[simp5782]

Since you are idling your truck anyway what about running a coolant line in/out from the engine and just powering a small fan to blow thru a heater core?
Steady low/med heat, would use 24v (no inv), and low drain for batts...Plus you don't have to listen to (or pay for) high idle all night...

The other thought was maybe put overdrive pulleys on the alt so you get hi idle perf at low idle...even at highway speed the engine turns well below alt speed limit so it shouldn't be a problem going down the road...

You let it just idle and you will have issues with wet stacking. Running em up to 1k to 1300rpms is what you want to do to get some load on the motor

 

[Steelreaper80]

For extended idles (overnight) you have to run at high idle or you can wash the cylinder liners and get glazing. You can also get fuel dilution in the oil. High idle puts just enough load on the motor to increase cylinder pressure, more complete combustion, and raise engine temps slightly.

 

[162tcat]

It would be used mostly at idle but throttled up to a higher idle via hand cable. 2000 watt inverter running a small 1500 watt space heater over night that runs off and on. I sleep in my truck when I am in the field working and it gets cold in the dead of winter. Heater won't be running full tilt all night, just occasionally to keep me from freezing my begonias off. New truck heater core and blower but at idle, the truck sometimes blows cold air even though it is running.

You could get a webasto type diesel heater and save a ton of fuel by not idling all night. Would fit right under the seats. Knockoffs are cheap and reliable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mitchkrat]

Can you

Not if they are brushless, which most are. The brushless ones have very low idle output.

Up to you, I have one here if you want, but I think you are better with the one you just received. People tend to get hung up on the total output number, rather than output at idle, and then they get mad their gauge is in the yellow unless they rev the engine up.

We can switch them out if you want to send me the one you just received, and $40 to ship this one to you. They are heavy. They look cool, and do make a lot of power, but not at idle. You will have a voltmeter in the yellow at idle, and probably even the red if using your inverter heavily at idle.

Can you PM me with pricing please

 

[Mario]

It's been a few years and most/all links to parts are dead and several people or recommendations do not answer.
In 2025, what are my options to get my M936A1 8.3l overcharging alternator upgraded?

 

[CPDOG]

Hi there,
Haven’t been on here for awhile but I have something to share concerning this and my experience with the 21si, so if you have follow on issues please look at the email excerpt below

your install looks great by the way

I’m attaching an email to a fellow steel soldier guy on my upgrade and it may assist you In The future

BEGIN EXCERPT:
The short bracket for normal alternator bolt on mount is CUMMINS P/N# 3929418

my problem went on for about six months and is very well documented on steel soldiers, just use my name here and search there for the entire story, i am adding a few other parts for you should you go this route:


as for the two replacement alternators i went thru:

I went to steel soldiers and seen the spider marine mod (it sucks bro, don't get this its futile), too many follow on issues from it hunting and customer service

i ended up purchasing a leece-neville alt with an adjustable regulator and it nice too, just start truck and adjust it to the voltmeter on dash. no more cycling of the needle, no more spiking, no nothing except staying in the tick mark on the green even when playing with the heater, lights, etc.
it is a Leece/Neville 75amp part # l/n 110-446 and the pulley you will need is j/n 208-01003

my new tensioner part number for you is a DAYCO 50-0035, I got it a local freightliner dealership in Tacoma Wa which is a Cummins shop too. I got it for around 60-70 dollars. originally, I just took mine in and said the type of engine and the vin # and they literally pulled it right off the shelf.

oh yeah, fyi the tech man says to remove the plate just behind the tensioner, you don't have too. just remove the center bolt holding it on and reinstall with alignment pin and torque to 30 foot lbs

good luck guys, there is way more to this and all above is paraphrased, it you have any questions along the way just let me know as i may be able to assist.

Lastly, do review my issue on steel soldiers too.


V/r
Columbus and Chris Partin
H-360-830-9513
C-360-204-0019



END EXCERPT

 

[CPDOG]

Hi there,
Haven’t been on here for awhile but I have something to share concerning this and my experience with the 21si, so if you have follow on issues please look at the email below

I’m attaching an email to a fellow steel soldier guy on my upgrade and it may assist you In The future

BEGIN EXCERPT:
The short bracket for normal alternator bolt on mount is CUMMINS P/N# 3929418

my problem went on for about six months and is very well documented on steel soldiers, just use my name here and search there for the entire story, i am adding a few other parts for you should you go this route:


as for the two replacement alternators i went thru:

I went to steel soldiers and seen the spider marine mod (it sucks bro, don't get this its futile), too many follow on issues from it hunting and customer service

i ended up purchasing a leece-neville alt with an adjustable regulator and it nice too, just start truck and adjust it to the voltmeter on dash. no more cycling of the needle, no more spiking, no nothing except staying in the tick mark on the green even when playing with the heater, lights, etc.
it is a Leece/Neville 75amp part # l/n 110-446 and the pulley you will need is j/n 208-01003

my new tensioner part number for you is a DAYCO 50-0035, I got it a local freightliner dealership in Tacoma Wa which is a Cummins shop too. I got it for around 60-70 dollars. originally, I just took mine in and said the type of engine and the vin # and they literally pulled it right off the shelf.

oh yeah, fyi the tech man says to remove the plate just behind the tensioner, you don't have too. just remove the center bolt holding it on and reinstall with alignment pin and torque to 30 foot lbs

good luck guys, there is way more to this and all above is paraphrased, it you have any questions along the way just let me know as i may be able to assist.

Lastly, do review my issue on steel soldiers too.


V/r
Columbus and Chris Partin

 

[CPDOG]

Hi there,
Haven’t been on here for awhile but I have something to share concerning this and my experience with the 21si, so if you have follow on issues please look at the email excerpt below

your install looks great by the way

I’m attaching an email to a fellow steel soldier guy on my upgrade and it may assist you In The future

BEGIN EXCERPT:
The short bracket for normal alternator bolt on mount is CUMMINS P/N# 3929418

my problem went on for about six months and is very well documented on steel soldiers, just use my name here and search there for the entire story, i am adding a few other parts for you should you go this route:


as for the two replacement alternators i went thru:

I went to steel soldiers and seen the spider marine mod (it sucks bro, don't get this its futile), too many follow on issues from it hunting and customer service. The main issues at the time were their regulators and their sector 21si’s on the market too: CHINESE AND AMERICAN MADE ONES

i ended up purchasing a leece-neville alt with an adjustable regulator and it nice too, just start truck and adjust it to the voltmeter on dash. no more cycling of the needle, no more spiking, no nothing except staying in the tick mark on the green even when playing with the heater, lights, etc.
it is a Leece/Neville 75amp part # l/n 110-446 and the pulley you will need is j/n 208-01003

my new tensioner part number for you is a DAYCO 50-0035, I got it a local freightliner dealership in Tacoma Wa which is a Cummins shop too. I got it for around 60-70 dollars. originally, I just took mine in and said the type of engine and the vin # and they literally pulled it right off the shelf.

oh yeah, fyi the tech man says to remove the plate just behind the tensioner, you don't have too. just remove the center bolt holding it on and reinstall with alignment pin and torque to 30 foot lbs

good luck guys, there is way more to this and all above is paraphrased, it you have any questions along the way just let me know as i may be able to assist.

Lastly, do review my issue on steel soldiers too.


V/r
Columbus and Chris Partin
H-360-830-9513
C-360-204-0019



END EXCERPT