M925A2 Electrical Short/Nightmare

[porkysplace]

PCB=Power Control Box

Also you have not mentioned any of the tests from the troubleshooting section of the TM's that you have performed . Do you have a multi-meter they are a must for tracking electrical problems. As 74M35A2 stated rebuild or buy a new PCB this has to work before anything else will. We can sit here and guess all day every electrical problem is different and your going to have to do some testing and provide results for much help here . The PCB is designed to be a weak point to protect the rest of the electrical system.

Here are some related threads on the PCB . the help you get is only going to be as good as the information you provide , your the one who has to do the tests .

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site+steelsoldiers.com+%3Bhow+to+rebuild+a+5+ton+pcb

 

[YBC Offroad]

I went to do the continuity tests as the TM says to do but i do not have a a voltage regulator harness. I have 3 wires coming to the alternator that's it. I'm not sure what to do now so i took the alternator out to go have it tested.

 

[162tcat]

I went to do the continuity tests as the TM says to do but i do not have a a voltage regulator harness. I have 3 wires coming to the alternator that's it. I'm not sure what to do now so i took the alternator out to go have it tested.

It's likely the PCB that is fried as others have stated. It's probably due to an improper shutdown. Search pcb on here and you'll get all of your answers.

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

 

[porkysplace]

I went to do the continuity tests as the TM says to do but i do not have a a voltage regulator harness. I have 3 wires coming to the alternator that's it. I'm not sure what to do now so i took the alternator out to go have it tested.

Probably need to post some pictures.
Is it a military alternator or a civilian replacement ?

 

[YBC Offroad]

I will get pictures tomorrow. What does a military one look like. This one was black and had a military style plug on it. I had to take a cover off the alternator to disconnect a wire.

 

[162tcat]

I will get pictures tomorrow. What does a military one look like. This one was black and had a military style plug on it. I had to take a cover off the alternator to disconnect a wire.

That's a military alternator. Ditch that pos and get a one wire Delco or similar. Search for that, lots of info on that too.

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

 

[YBC Offroad]

 

[YBC Offroad]

Sorry for 4 pics.. it wasn't loading and i hit it multiple times.

 

[porkysplace]

I will get pictures tomorrow. What does a military one look like. This one was black and had a military style plug on it. I had to take a cover off the alternator to disconnect a wire.

You may want to look into this alternator .
Genuine 24V Delco Alternator Overview and Identification

[h=1]M925A2 Delco Style Alternator[/h]

 

[YBC Offroad]

Would there be anything wrong with getting it rebuilt? I know who shut it down wrong multiple times so if i just am sure to do that, i should be good

 

[74M35A2]

It is better to improve the system so it doesn’t happen again. The Delco clone conversion is a much more modern alternator, and more reliable in about 4-5 different ways. Switching alternator types aleviates it from happening again. You could get the alternator repaired, only to have the connections overheat, the pulley spin on the shaft, or the alternator overheat from trying to charge old batteries at idle. Nobody here that has done it has regretted it, that I know of. It is low cost amd simple to do, especially simple on an 8.3L

 

[porkysplace]

Would there be anything wrong with getting it rebuilt? I know who shut it down wrong multiple times so if i just am sure to do that, i should be good

It will probably cost more to rebuild than a new Delco clone. The only advanage to the military alternator is it is sealed for fording. But if you have the truck that deep in the water a the alternator will be cheap compared to the rest of the service that will be needed.

 

[doghead]

It is better to improve the system so it doesn’t happen again. The Delco clone conversion is a much more modern alternator, and more reliable in about 4-5 different ways. Switching alternator types aleviates it from happening again. You could get the alternator repaired, only to have the connections overheat, the pulley spin on the shaft, or the alternator overheat from trying to charge old batteries at idle. Nobody here that has done it has regretted it, that I know of. It is low cost amd simple to do, especially simple on an 8.3L

In 10 years of owning these trucks, and having owned about 20 or more, I've only had one that was purchased with a bad alternator.

It needed a regulator and I bought a few of them for around $60 each.

Please explain, "connections overheat", I've never heard that phrase used in the forums or in real life.

I think I recall 1 or possibly 2 members having a pulley loose, and the one I do recall was a unknown truck driving home(probably without a good inspection).

I do not recall or have ever seen one of these alternators overheat from idling.

Your dislike for the stock military alternators sounds like a sales pitch from a salesman.

 

[74M35A2]

Goal is to get the OP fixed and prevent re-occurence. Best way to do this is to prevent it from happening again. Best way to do that is to change it so it can’t over-volt (again?). Can jump up and down and say read the manual, but not all that drive it will read the manual, as was already done, so probably better to just change the configuration so it so it doesn’t happen again.

I quit selling alternators a while back. Can’t compete with a Delco clone for $69 delivered, new, with 1 year warranty. Pulley additional $14. I can’t in good conscious gouge members, so I have instead been directing them to where they can get this price directly. Wolverine offers a fair deal because they include the fasteres, spacers, etc, so I send people that way also.

Modern alternator has improved mass, output, cooling, pulley connection, wire attachment, and over-volt failsafe protection. The alternator on my 5t used wire connection from the 1900’s telephone system. Bare wires wound around a tapered post, held in place with a cover. As this corrodes, resistance goes up, it makes heat, and melts the back side of the alternator. Stock alrernator looks cool, but once the hood is closed, the coolness ends.

I can’t say anything to change your mind. If you like your alternator, you can keep your alternator.

 

[doghead]

I'll go with (suggest)regular, educated maintenance.

All documented in the TM's.

It's very credible, unlike any yahoo on the internet, telling a stranger to modify things with no explanation why.

 

[Buffalobwana]

Doghead, I guess you have been lucky, or I have been unlucky, because I have not had an alternator yet, out of 4 trucks that didn’t quit working. I’m not fording water or doing anything odd, adding a bunch of lights or running a lot of amps (don’t know if that would take a huge toll on them or not).

Your well of knowledge on these trucks probably runs deeper than mine, so, I’m curious, why would you think upgrading the alternator is not a good idea? Or did I read your last post wrong?

 

[doghead]

I don't see a need to change what works fine for me.

I have seen others(I know) who are lax in maintenance and have issues.

I clean my battery terminals annually, keep my batteries tied down properly, and don't modify my wiring very much.

I ford a few of my trucks when needed and do the after maintenance needed.

I have 4 or 5 trucks that run whenever needed , and I don't see the need to change it.

I really hate to see a new guy come to the site with an issue, and have one guy constantly jump in with, "you need to throw away the junk oem system", when it just isn't needed.

I understand and fully support people modifying things to their needs, once they are educated and understand why they want/need to make such modifications.

I also cringe when I see the term "upgrade" used so often.

Changing something that will not benefit someone is not and upgrade.

 

[YBC Offroad]

Sorry for the long wait but I have just gotten back to this truck as it was around 0 degrees here in MN again, but the voltage regulator in the alternator was indeed the issue

 

[NDT]

Thought so. The Prestolite 60 amp military alternator was just fine until Uncle started sourcing clones from quite a few manufacturers. The clone voltage regulators (which fit Prestolite) can't handle real life and go berserk.