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M925A2 Front Winch Broke under load

Jbulach

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Yep, just pull the line off the motor temporary, and dead head it into a gauge to see where your at.
 

Jbulach

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Yes, the flange on the output of the hydraulic motor is separated from the winch case. Not sure why there was only 3/8" or so going into the winch case, maybe this was an after-military install? What is the purpose of that flange between the motor and the winch case? Just a spacer to align the output shaft to the winch gear?
Ok, I was wrong, M543A2 was correct the winch side case IS aluminum, so be careful tightening the new bolts, they shouldn’t have much pullout load, just shear.

IMG_6177.jpg

The bolt I removed is 2-1/2”x1/2”-13tpi, grade 5, with 1” of thread engagement, and was loose as well! This hole has about 1-1/4” of thread available, and appears to be blind, with a tapered bottom from the drill bit.
IMG_6178.jpg
 

74M35A2

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At this point, if the threads are knarfed, see if you can drill tap to next size up, metric or inch. Then, regardless, switch it to full depth engagement studs which have been Loc-Tite'd in, now that it is weak and been pulled out once. Then re-attach with thick flat washers and nyloc nuts. You'll never have to look under it again.

You may be able to clock the housing 45 degrees and re-drill to give you fresh threads to work with. Or, worst case, if same material, and it sits flat, just have the adapter welded to the case. Even that move, though a little drastic, would be better than having to replace it entirely.
 
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Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Sunman Indiana
At this point, if the threads are knarfed, see if you can drill tap to next size up, metric or inch. Then, regardless, switch it to full depth engagement studs which have been Loc-Tite'd in, now that it is weak and been pulled out once. Then re-attach with thick flat washers and nyloc nuts. You'll never have to look under it again.

You may be able to clock the housing 45 degrees and re-drill to give you fresh threads to work with. Or, worst case, if same material, and it sits flat, just have the adapter welded to the case. Even that move, though a little drastic, would be better than having to replace it entirely.
Whoa big fella... put the welder away, it’s not that knarfed... yet.

I like the stud idea. Wonder if ARP makes any for our boosted winches?
 

acolesurf

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Vallejo, CA
Awesome, thanks for that info everybody! I’ve been under the weather the last few days, I’m going to get out there and tackle this soon though. Since only 1/4-3/8” stripped out, I might just start with longer bolts, and then for the permanent fix, I’ll see if I can drill and tap for 9/16” while still having enough meat on the case.




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