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Yep, just pull the line off the motor temporary, and dead head it into a gauge to see where your at.
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Ok, I was wrong, M543A2 was correct the winch side case IS aluminum, so be careful tightening the new bolts, they shouldn’t have much pullout load, just shear.Yes, the flange on the output of the hydraulic motor is separated from the winch case. Not sure why there was only 3/8" or so going into the winch case, maybe this was an after-military install? What is the purpose of that flange between the motor and the winch case? Just a spacer to align the output shaft to the winch gear?
Whoa big fella... put the welder away, it’s not that knarfed... yet.At this point, if the threads are knarfed, see if you can drill tap to next size up, metric or inch. Then, regardless, switch it to full depth engagement studs which have been Loc-Tite'd in, now that it is weak and been pulled out once. Then re-attach with thick flat washers and nyloc nuts. You'll never have to look under it again.
You may be able to clock the housing 45 degrees and re-drill to give you fresh threads to work with. Or, worst case, if same material, and it sits flat, just have the adapter welded to the case. Even that move, though a little drastic, would be better than having to replace it entirely.