Meet Mr Rusty

Tracer

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The Isuzus diesel engine is one of the best if not "the" best car diesel out there (Mercedes is still probably number one) . My good buddy who is also a Master Mechanic and 3 others at the transit dept who work with me, also own the Isuzus diesels in trucks. They all swear by them and most have over 200,000 miles on them ! One guy has gone through 2 bodies but the engine is still running great.
Rusty, I had a 1984 Mercedes 300D with the 5cyl. turbo diesel engine, and I put 327,000 miles on it before I traded it in on an S420 with a gas engine. The diesel was great and the gas engine S420 was on the back of a tow truck 4 times in the 6 years that I owned it.
 

eme411

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that's what you get for not keeping that 617 turbo , same engine in the BV-206 , they were bullet proof and dumb, best engine Benz ever made
 

cucvrus

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Well after 2 years of plowing and working Mr Rusty is back for a check up and refresher top to bottom. Just a going over and doing any needed maintenance. He has an oil leak not sure but the oil pan may be rusted thru. No worries. I will be gone most of the weekend. So progress will come to a halt on my projects. I currently have a few on tap. Have a great weekend and nice weather is still with us here in the north east.
 

cucvrus

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Today I wasted a lot of time going to a sale. The items listed were not what they thought they were. All JUNK. I left and went home. Started looking at my projects and thought oh well might as well gate something done. I had written the day off with my trip. Same as tomorrow. Family event. That is good some people have no family to spend time with.DSCF3667.jpgDSCF3676.jpgDSCF3674.jpgDSCF3673.jpgDSCF3672.jpgDSCF3671.jpgDSCF3669.jpgDSCF3670.jpgDSCF3668.jpgDSCF3675.jpgThe flex plate needs replaced, I am not looking forward to that. Look at the cooler lines. The gear shift is sloppy. Look at the spring on the bell crank. It has an oil leak. Looks like several. Oh Joy . Oil pan front seal and oil cooler lines. The block is encrusted in rust. I guess I will have to prep for surgery. All up top looks decent. It has been in the salt again real bad. i can see it on the fasteners and the new leaf springs.
 

tremonttruck28

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hey there, awesome work! this is one of the best posts i've found yet for this subject matter. i'm new to this site and therefore i haven't contributed anything yet. despite that, i'm hoping you could help me out. i've got an 86 m1028a1 and i want to take the cab off in order to clean up the frame. just light surface rust now but i live in maine so i'm trying to take precautions. just trying to get an idea of what needs to be disconnected and in what sequence. also, best ways to lift cab off frame. maybe there is a thread that already exists for this but i haven't found it yet. any information you can provide from your personal experience is greatly appreciated. thanks! -Nate
 

cucvrus

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I can help you with this. Do you have a cherry picker for removing engines? Or a building to connect ratchet straps to? Check out my Easter find M1008 thread. Lots of tips. First thing is to get the penetrating oil working on the 4 cab bolts. Get it sprayed up in the weld nut holes really good. Do it several times. A couple cans. I do NOT like broken cab nuts. So far so good. Report back. Ask away. I will help. But get the oil started a while.
 

tremonttruck28

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I can help you with this. Do you have a cherry picker for removing engines? Or a building to connect ratchet straps to? Check out my Easter find M1008 thread. Lots of tips. First thing is to get the penetrating oil working on the 4 cab bolts. Get it sprayed up in the weld nut holes really good. Do it several times. A couple cans. I do NOT like broken cab nuts. So far so good. Report back. Ask away. I will help. But get the oil started a while.
thanks for your quick response! not positive where i'll be working on it yet but in any case i'll be using ratchet straps off a solid fixed point of some sort. i don't have my own shop and want to do this indoors so i will have to use one of my friends spaces. it will be a couple weeks before i dive into it, just trying to get my game plan sorted out right now. in the meantime i will check out your easter m1008 thread. i will get back in touch once i get started and keep you posted. i'm happy to know i'll have you as a resource as i haven't done anything this extensive before and it seems like you really know your stuff. thanks again!
 

cucvrus

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I done a lot outside. Myself. I removed a cab and remounted it from a tree limb. I have had several cab's and tubs from CUCV M1009-M1010. I have an M1009 that I will be re-framing coming to a build near you. That is due January 2018. Completion summer 2018. It will probably be in the garage before then soaking the cab mounts. It has been sitting wrecked since 2008. I will start a new thread on that project. Thinking of a name for that build at the moment. But what you want to do is completely doable.
 

dougco1

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I done a lot outside. Myself. I removed a cab and remounted it from a tree limb. I have had several cab's and tubs from CUCV M1009-M1010. I have an M1009 that I will be re-framing coming to a build near you. That is due January 2018. Completion summer 2018. It will probably be in the garage before then soaking the cab mounts. It has been sitting wrecked since 2008. I will start a new thread on that project. Thinking of a name for that build at the moment. But what you want to do is completely doable.
Rick, How bout Mr. crinkled for the build.
 

cucvrus

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DSCF4052.jpgDSCF4053.jpgI removed the transmission bell crank and cleaned it up. I will be getting a new spring at the hardware store and greasing it up really good. I think Mr Rusty was in the Atlantic ocean over the past 2 years. Everything is rusted up again. DSCF4054.jpgDSCF4055.jpgThese glow plugs have been in this truck for 2 years. DSCF4056.jpgDSCF4057.jpgDSCF4058.jpgDSCF4059.jpgDSCF4060.jpgI think the resistance is that great it melted the wire off the harness. Anyone have any ideas on what I can do to keep the corrosion to a minimum. I was wondering if they make encapsulated glow plug connections. Or if I should put heat shrink on the glow plugs. That would make them hard to remove but maybe protect the connections. maybe I need to lather the connections in dielectric grease. thank you for looking. If you have any tips please share them. This is a truck that is on top of the north side of the mountain and plows a 2 1/2 mile dirt driveway. I tore into the harness and fished the wire out that needs replaced.

Question. It the wire getting hot from the rusty end and causing the wire to overheat because of the resistance. This is one of the same wires I fixed 2 years ago. But it is not melted to the splice. Just about 1 inch towards the glow plug side. Have a Great Day.
 

o1951

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Depends on how hot the glow plugs get. I had trouble with moisture in the deeply recessed plug boots on 5.4L Ford V8. I installed new boots and did everything in Permatex dielectric grease. Heat melted it out of boots and plug connector.
 

cucvrus

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I think I will start with putting some inner fender fillers in place. They are missing. I suppose that could throw more snow and slush up in the engine compartment. I felt it would also help get it out faster not being there. When I plow sometimes the engine looks like a black piece of steel in a snow pile. Depends on the snow dry or wet. Fine dry snow gets in everywhere. Sometimes I see particles in the defroster at start up. I think I will give the fillers and grease a try.
 

cucvrus

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After 3 days of miserable rain , cold and sickness. I am about to embark on putting the glow plugs back in. I have a plan to semi shield the glow plugs and the connections from the elements. I think it will hold up well. It will be better then the previous set up. I am using the stock 13 G A C Delco glow plugs. I will use copper never seize. I will install new 3/6" female spade connections on all 8 ends. I will also install heat shrink tubing on each glow glug after I have installed and tightened them. Lets roll.
 

cucvrus

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DSCF4061.jpgDSCF4062.jpgWithout even a slightest whimper my Wife went out and assisted me in getting the wiring to the glow plugs repaired on Mr. Rusty. It was very cold out and windy. Considering last week I was working in a tee shirt and sweating. I had 7 of the 8 glow plug wires fixed. The 8 th one was a different story. It was the right rear one. I pulled on that wire and all I had was melted green insulation. I fell back for some R & D and I think I am going to make a new glow plug harness for each side. Why would it not work to use a 4/14 wire and crimp a 5/16" eye on one end and 4 3/16" female spades on the other end. I have the wiring fixed for now. I need to get this plow truck back in service. I told the owner that I would like to pull the engine next spring and reseal everything. Also pull the heads and do the head gaskets. It has a bad flywheel / flex plate and a few oil leaks. Most of all very rusty. The exhaust manifolds are larger then they should be from corrosion. It is very hard to get a straight socket attached on a few of the glow plugs. The oil cooler lines are scary. I am afraid to work on them. I am sure that will open up a whole can of worms. I replaced the spring and greased the bell crank for the transmission shifter. That works and feels much better. I bought a spring at the hardware store. Spring # 181 on the spring board. Direct fit. I also came up with a plan to help curb the corrosion of the glow plugs a bit. Worth a try anyway. And so easy. I had my Wife cut short pieces of 3/8" fuel line. I filled the short pieces of fuel line with Dielectric grease and slide them over the glow plug wire. I attached the new spades to the glow plug and slid the short silicone filled hoses over the glow plug. I then packed them full of grease. I felt like it was worth a try. DSCF4063.jpgDSCF4064.jpgDSCF4065.jpgDSCF4066.jpgDSCF4067.jpgBack to the right rear glow plug. I could have removed the harness and cut the wire back and replaced it. But daylight was getting short. Time to think and get a head a bit. I ran a separate wire from the bottom stud of the relay on the firewall to the right rear glow plug. Sounds logical. But I may have the description and type of wire wrong. But I have 4 wires incased in 1 hard coating at work all day. And it is brand new from trucks. It will make an awesome glow plug harness. Color coded and all. This is a plow truck not a museum piece. I will keep the good parts for better vehicles, Besides it will work the same. Unless I am missing something. Anyone???? I am not beyond correction. And I am replacing a few burnt/ corroded/ carbonized wires with wiring that is new. No parts changes. Just think if I slipped it in the loom who would know. But I could have color coded glow plug wires. The flat four wiring on the new Freightliners and Navistar's would work perfect. Waiting for a reason why it won't work. Thank you.
 

cucvrus

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DSCF4067.jpgFor clarity the thin green wire is the rogue wire to the right rear glow plug. Anybody??? Any reason it won't work??? Making a new 4 wire harness for each side. The OEM wires and beat and need replaced.
 

cucvrus

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Short term the one wire? Or short term using the flat 4 wires and splicing an eye on the one end? Short of tearing the harness out? Can I just eliminate the orange wires and use the flat 4?
 
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