MEP-002- How far can the injector pump be off and still run?

[hurst01]

My injector pump went out last year. When I had time to work on it I couldn't remember, when I remembered I didn't have time to work on it. Now that we have had some bad weather coming I made the time to assemble a pump and put it on. I aligned the PC marks and installed it. When I first tried it didn't start. I turned the prime pumps on and loosened the drain cocks on the bottom of the fuel filters. I could hear air being pushed out of the canisters, a bit of spurting and then steady fuel. After closing the petcocks I primed and preheated again. It fired up and runs extremely good. I ran it for about a half an hour two different times. I also started and stopped it several times while checking for output which will be in another post.
I was thinking about it today and I realized that I didn't take the 1/8" rod and align the injector pump before installing it. I can't believe it started but it seems to run perfectly.

 

[rustystud]

My injector pump went out last year. When I had time to work on it I couldn't remember, when I remembered I didn't have time to work on it. Now that we have had some bad weather coming I made the time to assemble a pump and put it on. I aligned the PC marks and installed it. When I first tried it didn't start. I turned the prime pumps on and loosened the drain cocks on the bottom of the fuel filters. I could hear air being pushed out of the canisters, a bit of spurting and then steady fuel. After closing the petcocks I primed and preheated again. It fired up and runs extremely good. I ran it for about a half an hour two different times. I also started and stopped it several times while checking for output which will be in another post.
I was thinking about it today and I realized that I didn't take the 1/8" rod and align the injector pump before installing it. I can't believe it started but it seems to run perfectly.

If it is "out of time" it will start to heat up and eventually stop running after about 1/2hr. So it appears you lucked out and got it timed right !

 

[Triple Jim]

Sewerzuk did some testing in this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-injection-pump-timing-in-an-002a-003a-really

 

[hurst01]

I read the thread posted by Sewerzuk. His tests were done with concerns to the "button" and were very informative. However when I installed my injector pump I don't have a clue as to where the orientation of the pump was when it was installed. I aligned the PC marks but the orientation of the IP was pot luck. I am going to pull it after the Thanksgiving holidays and make sure it is set right, there is no way I could have been lucky enough for the notches to have been aligned correctly before install. Thanks fr the input.

 

[dangier]

Ed,
Maybe you lucked out or it is "close enough". When I first started fooling with these things, I ended up with an 002 with the IP 3 teeth out. Ran, but didn't seem to have the hp. Did not run it more than a few minutes though.
Good luck!
David

 

[hurst01]

I plan to pull the pump to check it out rather than take chances on the engine struggling. Thanks for the replies.

 

[hurst01]

OK, finally got around to checking the timing on the injector pump. As was said before, I had the PC marks aligned and forgot to align the injector pump. I was in a hurry because I was freezing my tail off. Instead of totally removing the IP, I put a 1/8" rod in the screw hole of the pump and slowly rotated the crank until the rod went in the slot of the IP, loosened all 4 nuts for the IP as far as I felt safe before the nuts came off the studs and pulled the pump back to clear the gear. I then rotated the blower until the PC marks came up on the #1 cylinder compression stroke. Once the marks were aligned I slid the pump to the block and tightened the nuts.

I figure the IP was off at least 6 teeth of the gear. I am surprised it ran. I also replaced the glow plug for #1 cylinder because it was swollen... good thing I have a bunch of them. After priming and preheating, it fired and puffed a bunch of black smoke and took off. Something is wrong with my Reconnection Switch because it will not produce power in the 120/240 1 Phase position. As I posted in another thread, when in the 120/208 3 PH position and the selector switch in the L1-L3 1 Phase (far right) position I can get 120V from L0-L1 and L0-L3, and 240V from L1-L3. Less than 5 Volts from L0-L2. It does not make sense. A problem for another day I guess.

Anyway, it is running as it should. I haven't tried it under a load as of yet, my wife does not want to have to reset all the clocks and timers throughout the house when I kill the power just to try it.

 

[Keith_J]

Timing is set by the cam and shims, the gear driven rotation is just distribution, given the slot/hole overlap is a few degrees, you can be off a tooth and still run pretty good.