MEP-002A Exhaust Question plus Machine Resurrection

[rickf]

The biggest problem with these Ambac pumps it those damn expensive timing buttons!!! That they apparently have not made for 50 years. And according to the manual there is a shim between the pump and the block that HAS to stay with the engine. Those are also unobtanium. And also no way of knowing what shim is needed if pumps are changed out and shim is damaged or destroyed. This is why I will be leaning heavily on Ray and Guy this summer when I do mine.

 

[Guyfang]

The shim, according to the book needs to stay with the set. BUT, you can get away with putting another one in, if its lost, according to the TM. If my old moth eaten brain is not too burnt out.

 

[Tinstar]

The biggest problem with these Ambac pumps it those damn expensive timing buttons!!! That they apparently have not made for 50 years. And according to the manual there is a shim between the pump and the block that HAS to stay with the engine. Those are also unobtanium. Ans also no way of knowing what shim is needed if pumps are changed out and shim is damaged or destroyed. This is why I will be leaning heavily on Ray and Guy this summer when I do mine.

Perfect
That makes me feel so much better.

I did find and ordered NOS glow plugs and intake heaters.
Ones in the machine all look original.

Have 2 new Optima 51R Yellow Tops inbound.
Thinking of making new power and ground cables. Original ones aren’t bad.
I still need to remove the cables and clean the contacts.

 

[rickf]

Don't you think you ought to find out if it runs before doing TOO much extraneous work on that set?

 

[Tinstar]

Don't you think you ought to find out if it runs before doing TOO much extraneous work on that set?

Worse case is this is a parts machine.
I will get another one if this one doesn’t work out.
So firing shots with the parts cannon isn’t a total waste.

I needed the glow plugs anyway for starting.

 

[Tinstar]

Ok
Good news.
Removed cap nut, which was missing the copper washer, and the fuel that came out smelled fresh.
Removed valve holder, spring and valve.

Rotated engine and plunger was spinning but not plunging.
Sprayed carb cleaner inside and rotated engine, spraying more as I went.
let it sit for a few minutes and then tapped plunger lightly and it broke free.
Worked on it a bit turning engine over and spraying carb cleaner.
The carb cleaner came out yellowish at first and then cleared up and it’s working great now.
Spinning and plunging both.
The valve did have some rust on the edge and it cleaned it nice.

 

[Tinstar]

 

[Ray70]

So the inner piece that the cap screws onto ( with the 12 point head ) did not have a metal ring gasket around the center, that seals the cap to the body?
Originally it wasn't really a flat copper washer, it was more like a metal O-ring that seals against the beveled lip on the pump body.
Also that crusty gunk on the rim of the delivery valve used to be the "delivery valve spacer" which pretty much just holds it in place when you reassemble.
Hopefully if all went back together correctly.
Good news is that the fuel in your machine was probably REAL old diesel, which can be a good thing. Similar to Reg. unleaded Vs. Ethanol fuel, OLD diesel lasts way longer than fairly new low sulfur diesel, and that OLD fuel probably saved you a ton of grief!

 

[Tinstar]

Ah
Yes
It did have a metal oring
I was going by the schematic and didn’t see it there.
I will place it back and remove that copper washer.

When I removed the gunk, obviously I couldn’t get it to stay in place for reassembly.
So I used a touch of grease on the sides only and it stayed put. The diesel will dissolve the grease.

Rotated engine after reassembly and all seemed good.

Edit:
Removed copper washer and used the metal o ring that came off it.
All is good

 

[Tinstar]

I also removed the glow plugs and manifold heaters.
Used a Fluke Multimeter and checked the ohms.
Not sure exactly what they should read but none were open circuit.

If I had the fuel filters and battery's I would have tried to start it.

 

[Chainbreaker]

That's encouraging progress! Great to hear the injection pump is not frozen & appears to be functioning.

You might consider cracking the injector lines at the injectors to determine if you have good fuel flowing in the lines. Hopefully the injectors are not stuck & pop off pressure is good. It wouldn't hurt to put some more carb cleaner in those lines or the line to the IJ pump as Ray70 suggested earlier to now flow to injectors.

 

[Tinstar]

That's encouraging progress! Great to hear the injection pump is not frozen & appears to be functioning.

You might consider cracking the injector lines at the injectors to determine if you have good fuel flowing in the lines. Hopefully the injectors are not stuck & pop off pressure is good. It wouldn't hurt to put some more carb cleaner in those lines or the line to the IJ pump as Ray70 suggested earlier to now flow to injectors.

Already done. She’s soaking on SeaFoam.

While I had the glow plugs out, I used a bore scope to look inside. No rust or damage that I could see.

Managed to break the 15A convenience receptacle circuit breaker.
It was frozen and when I pulled hard on it, the black tip busted. Didn’t come off but might as well had.
That will be on order too, if I can find one.

 

[Guyfang]

The CB is not hard to find, or you can get something just like it. This happens a lot, when the sets are old, and the CB is not "used" much. Its always a good idea to every now and then cycle the CB, just to keep it free. Most people are happy when they get juice from the 120 volt outlet, and never think about the CB.

I looked in my beer can crystal ball and saw you have a runner.

 

[Ray70]

take a look around for a new circuit breaker, if you can't find it I'm sure I have a used one.

 

[Tinstar]

The panel mount ones, like the original, I can fine, but not in the correct amperage
The Nut mount ones I can easily find but do not want to do that unless I have to.

The other 7 1/2 amp breaker on the gauge panel is fine and easily found.

 

[Tinstar]

take a look around for a new circuit breaker, if you can't find it I'm sure I have a used one.

Might as well add that to the list.

Thanks

 

[Tinstar]

I looked in my beer can crystal ball and saw you have a runner.

I'm fairly confident she'll run
I hope it produces power.

If not, I'll do my best to fix it.

Appreciate all the help and encouragement everyone!!

 

[Chainbreaker]

I'm fairly confident she'll run
I hope it produces power.

If not, I'll do my best to fix it.

Appreciate all the help and encouragement everyone!!

When you have a few minutes to spare you should go ahead and remove the front access cover (below the load terminals) off the AC Distribution box. Inspect it inside for critter damage. Hopefully no critters found their way into the small opening by load terminals. As a quick critter deterrent, you should cut to length of the opening & stuff a piece of pipe wrap "foam tube" there. In one of my threads, I show a "permanent critter fix" using hardware cloth in the very back behind the load terminals.

Once you have the AC Reconnection box cover off, you should spray some good quality cleaner/lubricant across the length of the switch wafers. That switch can be problematic in binding up on the last selection it was left in & becoming erratic electrically if the wafer switch gets oxidized/corroded. You should then gently rock it back & forth slowly with increasing force until it breaks free to reach the other voltage selections.

If it refuses to break free you can loosen the nuts on the screw rods holding the wafers to release tension & rotate it. Once freed up its good to exercise either before or after your genset periodic maintenance runs.

 

[Tinstar]

I did take that cover off earlier and it was full of mud dauber nest.
Removed all of those and blew out the whole thing with an air hose.
No nest or critter damage that I could see.

I am glad to hear that I can spray that huge switch cylinder down with WD40 or equivalent.
Good to know
It does switch back and forth but is stiff and don’t know if that’s normal.


I will never use the 3 phase and will keep machine on the 120/240 most of its remaining life

 

[Chainbreaker]

I am glad to hear that I can spray that huge switch cylinder down with WD40 or equivalent.
Good to know
It does switch back and forth but is stiff and don’t know if that’s normal.

I use the spray DeOxit electrical cleaner. It helps to remove oxidized tarnish off the contacts & lubricates the switch points. Yes, the switch is hard to turn by design. Be careful to not manhandle it...fast hard torque twisting can damage or break it. I usually start by rocking the switch back & forth with increasing pressure until it reaches enough pressure to rotate (breakover point).