MEP-002A Exhaust Question plus Machine Resurrection

[Tinstar]

What I’m trying to figure out with the TMs, is why my voltage is good but Hz low.
I have good 120/240 voltage.
Charging system is putting out 25.52 volts.
But the hz is 48/49
I know I can increase engine speed to raise the hz but that also raises the voltage.
All numbers verified by using a Fluke Digital Multimeter.
Still working on it and learning this machine as I go.

The 15amp glass tube fuse was blown.
Replaced it but haven’t started it today.

Plan is to research that issue more, then run unit and get it nice and hot, then oil and filter change.

 

[Tinstar]

Ok
I was way over thinking this.
All is good and just the panel hz gauge is bad.

She’s a runner and produces power like it’s supposed to!!!

All voltages and hz at all the locations are where they’re supposed to be.
Told you this was my “first “

Extremely happy and she’s running now to get nice and hot for an oil change

A huge Thanks for everyone’s advice!!!

 

[Mullaney]

Ok
I was way over thinking this.
All is good and just the panel hz gauge is bad.

She’s a runner and produces power like it’s supposed to!!!

All voltages and hz at all the locations are where they’re supposed to be.
Told you this was my “first “

Extremely happy and she’s running now to get nice and hot for an oil change

A huge Thanks for everyone’s advice!!!

.
Congratulations!
Happy to hear that sound and I am sure you are smiling from Ear to Ear.

 

[rickf]

You bring your RPM up to where the Hz is correct on your meter and then you adjust the voltage knob on the panel to get the correct voltage. Once set you can just leave it alone. Be sure to set your unloaded frequency at 61 hz so when it is loaded it evens out at 60.

 

[Tinstar]

You bring your RPM up to where the Hz is correct on your meter and then you adjust the voltage knob on the panel to get the correct voltage. Once set you can just leave it alone. Be sure to set your unloaded frequency at 61 hz so when it is loaded it evens out at 60.

Yes. With the help of the TM's, I figured that out this morning.


What the TM's don't show is the trick to installing a new oil filter canister gasket. Old one was as hard as a brick.
Worked on that sucker for an hour and could never get it completely installed.
Always would stretch as you go around, pushing it into the grove and always had a bit too much that would bunch up, making in impossible to get it all in.
Coating the gasket with oil didn't' help and sitting the gasket in the sun to soften up didn't either.

I'm open to suggestions and am reading old threads now since it's most likely been discussed before.

 

[rickf]

It seems the gaskets that come with the new canister filters are garbage. I sometimes think the gaskets are as old as the technology. I also fought with mine for over and hour before I got lucky and it stayed on. That was a couple years ago now. I have just stayed with that gasket since then. This is a good reason to convert to spin ons.

 

[Tinstar]

This is a good reason to convert to spin ons.

Man, That's a FACT!

Working up the motivation to go outside and start over.
I removed the gasket last night. I have extras.
My neck and back are already crying in advance.
I should have left the old one in. It wasn't leaking at all.

Will be doing the conversion, but want to run this unit more to make sure it's good.
Still haven't load tested it yet beyond a space heater at the 120v outlets.

 

[Tinstar]

So I think I found the trick.
Took a Bernzomatic torch and heated up the area that holds the gasket.
Just decently warm to the touch.
Gasket had been laying in the sun.
Then I applied o-ring silicone grease to gasket.

Sucker slipped right in no sweat.
Then I took empty canister and bolted it up to seat gasket further.

All worked like a champ.
Took less than 10 minutes

 

[Tinstar]

Ran Genset after oil change to make sure no leaks.
It started right up and all is good with voltage and hz but now Battery meter is bouncing into the red and putting out 35v. Gotta figure that out.

No leaks and it’s running better than ever.

Getting Close for a load test.

 

[rickf]

Be sure to put a voltmeter on the batteries to verify what the panel is saying, If it is in fact 35 volts you will need to disconnect the charging circuit. I don't know how but I think I know a couple people on here that probably do. From what I have heard that battery charging regulator can be problematic and is usually replaced with an aftermarket one.

 

[Tinstar]

When I start it up, voltage is fine for a few minutes.
Then it creeps up to the higher number in pic.
After running for 10-15 minutes it settles down to the lower number shown.

If I pull the 15A glass tube fuse, it stops the charging and meter settles down to whatever the battery’s are putting out.

I do have a NOS voltage regulator inbound. It’s identical to the original one still on the machine.



I also sprayed contact cleaner on everything, including the blower wheel stator and blew it all dry with air hose.

Generator output is fantastic and exactly where it’s supposed to be hz and volt wise.

 

[rickf]

In the pic of the bus bar the third wire from the left on top looks like it may have a loose or dirty connection from the decolorization on the terminal. You might want to take them all off and clean them and reinstall and see if that does anything. Probably not but bad connections can do strange things, including take out regulators.

 

[Guyfang]

I would say you have a good gen set. Also say, you did good work.

No starter clash?

When load testing, ease it up from no load to full load. Let it run a while at each stage. Look at the exhaust. If the exhaust starts spitting carbon, just let it run till it stops.

DC volt regulators were and always will be crap. Get an up to date one.

AC volt regulators were crap, long ago. Then came an up grade. Crap. Then came a universal AC Volt regulator. Works good. read the book/warning about them the universal one needs the jumpers in the right place. I would assume, always a bad thing to do, but assume that any replacement AC Volt regulator should be the "New" one. So If you get one, simply read and check.

To quote a Dear, but departed friend, "You lookin good babe!"

 

[Tinstar]

In the pic of the bus bar the third wire from the left on top looks like it may have a loose or dirty connection from the decolorization on the terminal. You might want to take them all off and clean them and reinstall and see if that does anything. Probably not but bad connections can do strange things, including take out regulators.

I will do just that.
Didn't realize that third one was so discolored..

 

[Tinstar]

I would say you have a good gen set. Also say, you did good work.

No starter clash?

When load testing, ease it up from no load to full load. Let it run a while at each stage. Look at the exhaust. If the exhaust starts spitting carbon, just let it run till it stops.

DC volt regulators were and always will be crap. Get an up to date one.

AC volt regulators were crap, long ago. Then came an up grade. Crap. Then came a universal AC Volt regulator. Works good. read the book/warning about them the universal one needs the jumpers in the right place. I would assume, always a bad thing to do, but assume that any replacement AC Volt regulator should be the "New" one. So If you get one, simply read and check.

To quote a Dear, but departed friend, "You lookin good babe!"

Starter clash??

Will follow your advice.
With the amount of hours on this machine, no telling how it was abused.

 

[Tinstar]

Installed new circuit breaker at the 120v outlets.
Have a big bag of Thomas & Betts zip ties.
Almost Every zip tie has fallen off due to sitting out in the weather for ??? years.
Will take half a day to install all of them.

Well......not really, will just seem like it.

 

[rickf]

Starter clash, if you have it you will definitely know it! That is when you hit the start switch and instead of cranking the engine the gears don't quite engage in time and they make a horrendous grinding noise. If you have to question it then you don't have it. LOL.

 

[Tinstar]

Starter clash, if you have it you will definitely know it! That is when you hit the start switch and instead of cranking the engine the gears don't quite engage in time and they make a horrendous grinding noise. If you have to question it then you don't have it. LOL.

Ah!
I bet that does make quite the racket.

Will clean those contacts today and see if any difference.

 

[Guyfang]

Because you need to hold the start switch a little bit longer to always get the main gen to excite, some times you can get a bit, or a lot, of clash. Its easy to adjust.

 

[Tinstar]

Because you need to hold the start switch a little bit longer to always get the main gen to excite, some times you can get a bit, or a lot, of clash. Its easy to adjust.

Noted

I might not know a lot about this GenSet but one thing I do know is how to properly start it and when to release start switch.