MEP-002A Starting question

[Speddmon]

If you want to call it zero time you can. It means that they put the entire set back to factory spec. It could still have an old engine on it, but if it was within factory spec they didn't touch it. If it was out of spec, it was either rebuilt or replaced. The same goes for everything else.

 

[epitts]

The weather cooled off a little today, so I went to work on the 2A. Took the hex nut off the pump and pulled the DV out. I turned the engine over by hand and the plunger would move out but I would have too tap back in with hammer and drift. Seems like the spring is not strong enough to push it back in. What it the best way too free up the plunger? I pulled the injector line and squirted WD-40 in pump hoping that would help.

Thanks

 

[Keith_J]

Sticking plungers are best fixed by removing the pump itself. Timing is set by shims so don't worry, replacing the pump with all shims and same button means timing will be like original.

With it apart, cleaning is far more effective. Remember, the plunger is match honed to the barrel so solvents won't effectively clean it assembled.

 

[storeman]

Keith,

Hopefully not a hi-jack.

A Virginia friend and SS member named Phil, has several MEP-003a's and always fills the last fuel filter on a newly acquired one with Mystery oil and cranks it a few times to get it through the IP to loosen things up. Then lets it sit for a day or so before starting.

If Berrymans B-12 were run through the IP and allowed to sit for 15-20 minutes, might it free up a sticky throttle lever thus avoiding pulling the IP?
Jerry

 

[epitts]

Sticking plungers are best fixed by removing the pump itself. Timing is set by shims so don't worry, replacing the pump with all shims and same button means timing will be like original.

With it apart, cleaning is far more effective. Remember, the plunger is match honed to the barrel so solvents won't effectively clean it assembled.

Parts kit arrived yesterday from the nice lady at AMBAC, will be pulling the pump down for a rebuild shortly. Thanks for all the help

 

[Speddmon]

Sticking plungers are best fixed by removing the pump itself. Timing is set by shims so don't worry, replacing the pump with all shims and same button means timing will be like original.

With it apart, cleaning is far more effective. Remember, the plunger is match honed to the barrel so solvents won't effectively clean it assembled.

I hate to start an arguement, but the button and is matched to the hydraulic head. The shims set the gear lash for the drive, but if you change the pump, or even just the head you MUST flow time the pump to determine the button thickness for your fuel delivery rate. This is not just my opinion, but the TM and AMBAC engineers facts

 

[storeman]

Tom,
I think Keith is saying all the same parts go back in after cleaning. That should not change anything.............Should it????????? The rebuild kit is mostly gaskets and O-rings, nothing critical to timing.

At least that is the belief I've been under and has worked so far. By way of simplicity, if one hand turns the engine to the point where the 1/8" rod seats in the slot on the IP, you can remove and clean the IP and reinstall it without further work using the same slot alignment, so long as the engine hasn't been turned.
Jerry

 

[Speddmon]

Jerry,

You may be correct, but the way it was written and the way I read it doesn't lean that way. He wrote "replacing the pump", not rebuilding the pump, or disassebling and cleaning the pump.

You are correct though, if you are just re-installing your old pump everything is fine. You can even use the old hydraulilc head with a new body and all should be good. As I stated from AMBAC, the button is matched to the hydraulic head, if you replace the head you need to size a new button.

 

[epitts]

I have a friend who is going to watch me take the pump apart and clean it. We will just be rebuilding the old pump with new o-rings and such. The folks at AMBAC told me the head assy was a 4 month lead time and 850.00 if needed.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Speddmon]

There are too many used IP's floating around that you could buy and rebuild. Even if you had to buy 3 used ones to make one good one, you'll still be cheaper than $850 for a new head from AMBAC

 

[epitts]

I got a spare pump already just incase. Just putting that info out for others to know. I hope I will not need a head assy.


Thanks

 

[epitts]

A friend and I rebuilt the injector pump tonight, took about 4 hours. The dog bone looking part was broke and the plunger was stuck. Cleaned all the parts added new o-rings and put it back together. Hardest part was putting the retaning clips back on the spring retainer. Will put on genset tomarrow and update then.

 

[epitts]

It lives again

Well I installed the rebuilt IP today, after bleeding the lines and preheating the glow plugs she fire right up. The engine purred just like a kitten with no smoke at all. Got 122.7 volts at courtesy plug and 26.7 volts at the battery's. She was putting out 40 psi of oil pressure.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMaL-Xr3_jA[/media] Thanks for the help.


Hope this video works

 

[coyotegray]

Parts kit arrived yesterday from the nice lady at AMBAC, will be pulling the pump down for a rebuild shortly. Thanks for all the help

Where did you get your kit from..?

 

[epitts]

Where did you get your kit from..?

I called Ambac an ordered it along with some extra parts. I was only able to use two of the o-rings and one copper washer out of the kit. There is a big fat flat o-ring in the housing that I reused.