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MEP 003A not getting 240v

JeremyDM

New member
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7
3
Location
New York
Fired up this generator for the first time since living at this new home but only getting 120v out of it. It’s showing it’s on 1 phase 120/240v on reconnecting switch. Running at 60hz and showing 120 volts on ac voltage gauge on the front I test with multimeter and get 120v from L1 to L3. Test L1 to LO i get 60/70 volts and L3 to LO i also get 60/70 volts. And anything to L2 i get 0/10 volts. Don’t know much of anything about this stuff but something is not right. Only 500 hours on machine the knob on reconnect switch is broke only half of it is there but I can turn it.
 

cuad4u

Active member
268
88
28
Location
St Matthews, SC
Fired up this generator for the first time since living at this new home but only getting 120v out of it. It’s showing it’s on 1 phase 120/240v on reconnecting switch. Running at 60hz and showing 120 volts on ac voltage gauge on the front I test with multimeter and get 120v from L1 to L3. Test L1 to LO i get 60/70 volts and L3 to LO i also get 60/70 volts. And anything to L2 i get 0/10 volts. Don’t know much of anything about this stuff but something is not right. Only 500 hours on machine the knob on reconnect switch is broke only half of it is there but I can turn it.

I am not an expert on these machines. That being said, I have restored around 30 of them. IMO if the reconnect switch is stuck between positions (half way between the 3 o'clock and the 12 o'clock positions) I think that is the first thing to check. If so the contacts in the reconnect switch are stuck between positions, that is probably your problem and crazy things will happen in the power section AND in the metering sections. Been there and done that.

PS: I re-read your post. I thought the reconnect switch was stuck between positions. If the switch IS NOT stuck between positions, my reply does not apply. Old eyes and a old brain make bad decisions.
 
Last edited:

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
I am not an expert on these machines. That being said, I have restored around 30 of them. IMO if the reconnect switch is stuck between positions (half way between the 3 o'clock and the 12 o'clock positions) I think that is the first thing to check. If so the contacts in the reconnect switch are stuck between positions, that is probably your problem and crazy things will happen in the power section AND in the metering sections. Been there and done that.
Thanks for the reply back! That’s what I was possibly thinking or just stuck in the 12 o’clock position. So I guess I would then ask how or is there a way to find that out or free that up in the switch? Taking it apart or something or do you just have to get a whole new switch?
 

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
If the switch is actually stuck, you might want to try a can of aerosol contact cleaner.
Thank you! I mean it does turn to each position but doesn’t really click or anything not sure if it is suppose to. For 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock you have to turn it past it first.
 

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
I am not an expert on these machines. That being said, I have restored around 30 of them. IMO if the reconnect switch is stuck between positions (half way between the 3 o'clock and the 12 o'clock positions) I think that is the first thing to check. If so the contacts in the reconnect switch are stuck between positions, that is probably your problem and crazy things will happen in the power section AND in the metering sections. Been there and done that.

PS: I re-read your post. I thought the reconnect switch was stuck between positions. If the switch IS NOT stuck between positions, my reply does not apply. Old eyes and a old brain make bad decisions.
Even though it turns could something still be stuck within it? Bc it’s acting like it’s in 1 phase 120v with the readings I’m getting right? Or is it anything else it may be? I know like nothing about this machine.
 

Guyfang

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Burgkunstadt, Germany
Even though it turns could something still be stuck within it? Bc it’s acting like it’s in 1 phase 120v with the readings I’m getting right? Or is it anything else it may be? I know like nothing about this machine.
Of course there could be something stuck inside of it. And when you turn the switch, there should be a healthy "CLUNK" when it changes position. What do you hear?
 

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
Of course there could be something stuck inside of it. And when you turn the switch, there should be a healthy "CLUNK" when it changes position. What do you hear?
I don’t really hear anything at all to be honest but I can get it to go to each position. Is there a way to take it apart or free it up?
 

Guyfang

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Staff member
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The S6, Reconnection Switch is normally a non repairable item. So no pictures to guide you . It IS possible to take it apart, and fix it, (maybe) I know several folks who have done that, yes. Most folks start to foam at the mouth, go nuke and throw it away, when trying to reassemble it. EVERY part has to go back in right. I have done a few of the smaller switches, and it certainly taxed my patience to the max.

If you can turn the switch knob, and not hear/feel the "Klack", I am going to guess the switch shaft is simply turning in the switch body, and not turning the switch segments. The how and why? Can not tell you. I guess I would pull out S6. I would not mark the wires, I would use the wire diagram to reinstall it, or a replacement later. After getting it out, I would test the switch. There is a switch schedule in the diagrams. If it works, good. If not, I would, I guess, if I had countless hours of free time, take it apart. But would sure be looking for a new one.

One other idea is that the knob, is turning on the shaft. That happens when the switch is "locked up", and will not move. At some point, the knob strips out the shaft hole. and just turns on the shaft.
 

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
The S6, Reconnection Switch is normally a non repairable item. So no pictures to guide you . It IS possible to take it apart, and fix it, (maybe) I know several folks who have done that, yes. Most folks start to foam at the mouth, go nuke and throw it away, when trying to reassemble it. EVERY part has to go back in right. I have done a few of the smaller switches, and it certainly taxed my patience to the max.

If you can turn the switch knob, and not hear/feel the "Klack", I am going to guess the switch shaft is simply turning in the switch body, and not turning the switch segments. The how and why? Can not tell you. I guess I would pull out S6. I would not mark the wires, I would use the wire diagram to reinstall it, or a replacement later. After getting it out, I would test the switch. There is a switch schedule in the diagrams. If it works, good. If not, I would, I guess, if I had countless hours of free time, take it apart. But would sure be looking for a new one.

One other idea is that the knob, is turning on the shaft. That happens when the switch is "locked up", and will not move. At some point, the knob strips out the shaft hole. and just turns on the shaft.
Ok thanks a ton for all the information! I will check the knob and shaft first. Pulling that all out looks like a dam nightmare I don’t want to be in. Do you know of anywhere you could get a new switch I’m sure they are probably pricey too.
 

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
Ok thanks a ton for all the information! I will check the knob and shaft first. Pulling that all out looks like a dam nightmare I don’t want to be in. Do you know of anywhere you could get a new switch I’m sure they are probably pricey too.
Can you post a schematic for that switch also
 

Guyfang

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Staff member
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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Jeremy, You can download all the TM's here in the forum. No cost. Just go to the TM forum and you will find it. If you need help, just shout.
 

Chainbreaker

Well-known member
1,797
1,994
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Location
Oregon
...Don’t know much of anything about this stuff but something is not right. Only 500 hours on machine the knob on reconnect switch is broke only half of it is there but I can turn it.
If your turning the switch knob and not getting a solid clunk type sound your probably not actually turning the switch contacts inside.

Before you detach any wires or take anything apart on the switch take off the side cover from the AC Reconnection box and watch the switch shaft when you turn the switch. Good chance its not doing anything except maybe wiggling a bit and its stuck in an odd position. If your switch handle is broken take it off and grab the metal end with vice grips to turn the switch. BTW, I believe there are replacement switch knobs currently on eBay.

Several members have reported good success in the past by just loosening the screws/nuts (don't take them off) that go all the way through the wafer switch and spraying electrical contact cleaner (DeOxit or similar) in each wafer section to clean and lubricate the switch contacts as you turn switch back and forth several times. Of course, be sure to retighten & snug up the screws/nuts on the wafer switch after its freed up.
 
Last edited:

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
If your turning the switch knob and not getting a solid clunk type sound your probably not actually turning the switch contacts inside.

Before you detach any wires or take anything apart on the switch take off the side cover from the AC Reconnection box and watch the switch shaft when you turn the switch. Good chance its not doing anything except maybe wiggling a bit and its stuck in an odd position. If your switch handle is broken take it off and grab the metal end with vice grips to turn the switch. BTW, I believe there are replacement switch knobs currently on eBay.

Several members have reported good success in the past by just loosening the screws/nuts (don't take them off) that go all the way through the wafer switch and spraying electrical contact cleaner (DeOxit or similar) in each wafer section to clean and lubricate the switch contacts as you turn switch back and forth several times.
Thank you for the advice I will try when I get some free time
 

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
The S6, Reconnection Switch is normally a non repairable item. So no pictures to guide you . It IS possible to take it apart, and fix it, (maybe) I know several folks who have done that, yes. Most folks start to foam at the mouth, go nuke and throw it away, when trying to reassemble it. EVERY part has to go back in right. I have done a few of the smaller switches, and it certainly taxed my patience to the max.

If you can turn the switch knob, and not hear/feel the "Klack", I am going to guess the switch shaft is simply turning in the switch body, and not turning the switch segments. The how and why? Can not tell you. I guess I would pull out S6. I would not mark the wires, I would use the wire diagram to reinstall it, or a replacement later. After getting it out, I would test the switch. There is a switch schedule in the diagrams. If it works, good. If not, I would, I guess, if I had countless hours of free time, take it apart. But would sure be looking for a new one.

One other idea is that the knob, is turning on the shaft. That happens when the switch is "locked up", and will not move. At some point, the knob strips out the shaft hole. and just turns on the shaft.
Thanks for all your help! It was the switch that was locked up. A little TLC was the trick and maybe a bit of electrical contact cleaner spray! Working the shaft back and forth with vise grips on it and using some inward pressure while turning and WALA it started to “CLUNK” going into each position!
 

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
Thank you for the advice I will try when I get some free time
Thanks for all your help! It was the switch that was locked up. A little TLC was the trick and maybe a bit of electrical contact cleaner spray! Working the shaft back and forth with vise grips on it and using some inward pressure while turning and WALA it started to “CLUNK” going into each position!
 

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
If your turning the switch knob and not getting a solid clunk type sound your probably not actually turning the switch contacts inside.

Before you detach any wires or take anything apart on the switch take off the side cover from the AC Reconnection box and watch the switch shaft when you turn the switch. Good chance its not doing anything except maybe wiggling a bit and its stuck in an odd position. If your switch handle is broken take it off and grab the metal end with vice grips to turn the switch. BTW, I believe there are replacement switch knobs currently on eBay.

Several members have reported good success in the past by just loosening the screws/nuts (don't take them off) that go all the way through the wafer switch and spraying electrical contact cleaner (DeOxit or similar) in each wafer section to clean and lubricate the switch contacts as you turn switch back and forth several times. Of course, be sure to retighten & snug up the screws/nuts on the wafer switch after its freed up.
Thanks for all your help! It was the switch that was locked up. A little TLC was the trick and maybe a bit of electrical contact cleaner spray! Working the shaft back and forth with vise grips on it and using some inward pressure while turning and WALA it started to “CLUNK” going into each position!
 

JeremyDM

New member
14
7
3
Location
New York
I am not an expert on these machines. That being said, I have restored around 30 of them. IMO if the reconnect switch is stuck between positions (half way between the 3 o'clock and the 12 o'clock positions) I think that is the first thing to check. If so the contacts in the reconnect switch are stuck between positions, that is probably your problem and crazy things will happen in the power section AND in the metering sections. Been there and done that.

PS: I re-read your post. I thought the reconnect switch was stuck between positions. If the switch IS NOT stuck between positions, my reply does not apply. Old eyes and a old brain make bad decisions.
Thanks for all your help! It was the switch that was locked up. A little TLC was the trick and maybe a bit of electrical contact cleaner spray! Working the shaft back and forth with vise grips on it and using some inward pressure while turning and WALA it started to “CLUNK” going into each position!
 
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