mep-003a teardown and refurb

[johnray13]

I know if the arm assembly separates from the ball joint (the 4th picture) that spring will pull the governor arm back towards the fan and the engine will go wide open (don't ask me how I know) I guess it could be possible that with the spring too high it is pulling the arm back allowing too much throttle.

If you bump the start knob, is the stop solenoid pulling in and releasing when you stop cranking?

And I'm curious how you were able to shut it down when it ran wide open today.

Awesome job on the refurb btw.

John

 

[Jimc]

haha john i wish i could answer your questions but when that thing started spooling up and ran away i was in complete spaz mode. its all a complete fog really. i turned it to off, i popped the hatch open and pushed the linkage down and it did nothing then after a few more sec it started to slow down a bit and eventually turned off. it kinda came out of runaway on its own. nothing i did by moving the linkage made a difference with anything. whole incident lasted maybe 30 sec or so. also didnt help that i couldnt see anything with all the smoke.

 

[Harleyd315]

Jim, Did you check when you were primimg the unit for a good return of fuel to the tank? Sounds to me like maybe a plugged return line. Black smoke usually means to much fuel or excessive load. I would start looking at the check valve and then making sure that lines back to the tank are clear and the tank fitting is also clear. Years ago I saw an old Detroit engine run away like this and the mechanic working on it grabbed the CO2 fire extinguisher to shut it down, it worked.

 

[Jimc]

Yes harley, i could hear fuel running back into the tank. I have also bren through every hose and line in the unit, ran solvent through all of them and blew them all out including the check valve

 

[Harleyd315]

Maybe take the line off before the check valve and dump it into a can to see what kinda flow your getting. Were both exhaust pipes pumping black smoke?

 

[Jimc]

Yeah both were pumping huge amounts of smoke.

 

[Harleyd315]

Let me know what you find. Good luck and great job on the rebuild!!!!

 

[Jimc]

ahhh ha!! i found it. just dont know how it happened. ip its timed waaaay out. first i went to my friends machine shop and borrowed his dial indicator and mag base. i went through the manual to do the test and set the timing pointer on the flywheel. since the wheel was changed i wanted to be sure this was dead on the money. i pulled the valve cover, #1 cyl ex valve spring and dropped the valve down. set up the dial indicator and cranked the engine around until i found tdc. backed ot off then brought it back to exactly 128 deg before tdc. the pointer was off by 3/4 of a mark. i reset it and now its good to go with no more guessing. now i wanted to check the ip. i went though the manual and used method #2 to check pump timing. i will say this way of timing the pump is so easy its not funny because you can physically see the timing and what you got. in any case the metod it to remove #1 cyl high psi fuel line and reconnect it only on the pump end with the other end hanging down. you turn on the priming pumps then turn the blower wheel around until fuel comes out the line. keep turning slowly and the fuel will stop suddenly. if timed correct it should shut off dead on the pc mark. mine is not even in the window. intake valve is wide open but i cant see the pc mark at all. i had to stop tonight but tomorrow i will pull the pump and set it correctly. i fixed the governor spring too.

 

[Jimc]

ok so this morning i went out to double check my pump timing. set the engine to the pc mark and the 1/8 drill bit in the locating hole lined up perfectly. so the teeth are meshed right but the timing is way off so that tells me something is screwy with the pump. i took the pump apart and sure enough got a broken piece.



need some opinions...should i replace the whole pump with a good used or new one or should i just try and replace the part if i can find it? does anyone have one?

 

[Jimc]

i should also note that page 158 in the parts manual, fig 51 part #16. the fuel control which is the little thing that goes in the slot on the block has a slight bend in the end. prob when that block broke.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I should have those parts. I will check after lunch. Replacement will require taking pretty much the whole pump apart.

 

[Jimc]

one other broken part

 

[Jimc]

robb i pulled the pump apart but not the whole thing. separated the gear from the housing. just took that band off that holds the two together and it all just came apart. im not sure what the special tool is needed for. it looks like to remove the shaft with the timing button on the end of it. the shaft, they are calling the plunger, that goes through the center of the broken block, but the shaft on mine just came right out of the unit. i am assuming thats not right?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Not really any special tool. If that "bow tie" washer wasn't broken, you would have had another step to take it apart, no big deal.

 

[gimpyrobb]

OK, so these are the other parts besides the broken drive washer(bow tie), right?

 

[Jimc]

Yes thats it. Its not the whole speed control arm/shaft though. Just that little pin in the end.

also just looking at my pump, mine is al little different than the one in the 34 manual. That center shaft/plunger in the manual is tapered on the one end. If you look in the parts manual there are 2 pump breakdowns. One has a bowtie and straight shaft which i have. Not the other. Not that it matters for the parts i need but kinda strange. There were two different pumps used?

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have just recently started to learn about the IPs for the MEPs. They have very similar features to the deuce IP. In the batch of MEP IPs I got, I did notice some were different, but I have not had time to take a different one apart and put it side by side. I will do that soon though. PM headed your way.

 

[Jimc]

well i have been slowly working on this computer file for all the data plates. got them all done except i am missing the one for the slave receptacle. i had it but i seem to have lost it in all my parts around here. ill manage to get that one done. i went ahead and did the control box panel as well. i bought a new one from JOatey so i dont need it personally. i can easily do all these in a real high grade automotive vinyl with a laminate over them and make a whole kit fairly reasonable, definately under $100 for the whole thing. not sure how many people would be interested. if i get enough interest, i can get my hands on the wire schematic plate as well and include that so it would be a new replacement of every data plate on an 003 and the control box face for those of you guys where all this stuff is faded. i would imagine the 002 is about the same for all the plates or real close. anything 002 specific i can do that stuff as well. i am just trying to get an idea i guess of the # of guys that would be interested. if you are interested send me a pm. almost forgot....if you see one i am missing besides the slave and schematic let me know.

 

[MidnightDuramax]

Somewhere on SS there was someone that found a guy who would print data plates on the aluminum for a reasonable price as well. If I remember right be would do one of each at a time so you didn't have to do large runs.

 

[Jimc]

thats interesting. didnt know there was anyone doin that. i guess the idea here is you can go one of two ways. remove the data plate and just replace with the decal or you can overlay it onto the data plate itself and pop rivet the refinished plate back onto the gen set. for the control panel just remove the gauges, overlay it onto the alum panel, reinstall your stuff and will be like new.