• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

MEP-003a won't crank

Roger O

New member
23
0
0
Location
Sherman, Connecticut
Hi everyone. I am having a problem with my genset and need some advice. When I try to start the generator, the heater, primer and panel lights all work, the relays click, but the starter does not crank. My batteries are fully charges, and the cables are tight. The last time the generator was started was about a month ago without any issues, and it has been kept dry. I have checked the TMs and the forum to no avail. Any suggestions?
 

BadBrad1

New member
23
0
0
Location
KOKOMO, INDIANA
Maybe a stuck starter solenoid, probably need to open up starter and clean things up. You could try starting and wacking the solenoid a few times with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer a few times, maybe it will pop it loose.
 

pclausen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
452
281
63
Location
Afton, VA
I had a similar issue initially. Can you move the solenoid "arm" freely (forget the proper name for it) with a screwdriver or small crow bar? Once I got mine to move freely, I was able to crank it.
 

Roger O

New member
23
0
0
Location
Sherman, Connecticut
Thanks, I'll try the fixes a bit later today (work always gets in the way!). The solenoid arm does move freely, as a matter of fact it is pulled in when I first try to crank it, but does not freely move back, I'll try to make it move more freely today. Let you know...
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,377
5,089
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Sounds like a dirty contact ring in the starter solenoid. If the bendix (arm) moves when energized but the starter doesn't spin I'd suspect the copper ring that closes the connection to the starter motor might be dirty or pitted from arching. stick a screwdriver across the 2 large battery terminals on the starter and see if it spins.
If it does, then try connecting the small wire on the starter solenoid to the fat wire on the starter that goes to the battery and see what happens. Sometimes just jumping it at the starter will get it going again, other times you may need to open it up and clean it.
 

jamawieb

Well-known member
1,412
512
113
Location
Ripley/TN
I've had a couple where the solenoid would not engage. Try a rubber mallet first but I had one of the old style starters, where you see the solenoid arm. I had to pry the solenoid arm back with a large screw driver. If that works, take the rubber boot off the solenoid arm and spray it with WD-40.
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
check the starter lockout switch. over by the oil filter. disconnect that at the connector plug and jump it with a small wire.
 

Roger O

New member
23
0
0
Location
Sherman, Connecticut
Thanks guys, I finally got to work on the generator today (darn work always gets in the way!). All of the connections were tight, and no visible problems, so I decided to remove the starter, which I just did, and no I can work on it at the bench. I do think it might be the solenoid as Ray said. I'll open it to clean it anyway. Stay tuned...

Roger
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,377
5,089
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Now that it's out you may as well go ahead and try hitting it with jumper cables and see if it spins or not.
Ground to the starter body and touch the positive to the fat wire going into the body of the motor itself (not the one where the battery was attached to the solenoid)
If it spins you know the motor itself is working. Now try attaching the positive to the stud where the battery wire was, then jump from that to the post where the small wire was on the solenoid and see if the bendix pulls and the motor spins. If the bendix pulls in but the motor doesn't spin then the contactor inside the solenoid is probably pitted. If you get nothing at all then the solenoid itself must have a problem. Be careful when you jump it, you will get a good size spark if it works and the motor's torque will try to flip it over. Might want to have someone hold it down or secure it somehow.... just in case.... :doh:
 

Roger O

New member
23
0
0
Location
Sherman, Connecticut
O.K. so I finally had the time to work on the starter, turns out it is the solenoid - the contact ring is badly pitted all the way around. Does anyone know a source for new solenoids, or should I just buy a new starter on epay?
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
You can buy the solenoid. Southern automotive makes them but if i remember right they are around 80 bucks. For about 130 you can pick up a brand new style gear reduction starter on ebay. I know they are on there. You just have to do a search. If you cant find it send me a pm.
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
i really dont know roger. i know guys here have said the gear reductions are nicer on the generators but im sure the ebay ones are some type of import or something. i dont know anyone that has had one. if my starter went i would certainly buy one. new starters of the original type are crazy priced. cant be any worse than the import starter in your car i guess. so the decision to be made is, which will fail first, a 30-40 year old usa made starter or a brand new import.
 

R Racing

Active member
2,767
15
38
Location
St. Leonard, MD
I have bought 2 off of ebay. The first 1 is 4 years old and not a single issue. I installed the 2nd 2 last night and it works well to. So I'm saying I would have no hesitation buying another if I needed it . I will say they seem to spin easier than the factory original units which seems to help the engine get started faster.
 

massey

Member
72
7
8
Location
Marshall Va
If the plunger and contacts are pitted from arcing they can be cleaned by glass beading, wire brushing, sanding, etc. to get you going again.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,377
5,089
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
I've had perfect results sanding the rings with a piece of 180 grit paper on a flat piece of steel. Like Massey said, bead blasting or wire brushing in addition to sanding would clean in the pits better. Its worked for me in 100% of the cases I've worked on and saved more than 1 $400 starter for me, as well as gotten equipment back up and running quickly.
 

Roger O

New member
23
0
0
Location
Sherman, Connecticut
O.K., so I will attempt to resurface the ring - in my "real" job, I am a dentist, so I have the equipment to polish it out. I would consider turning the ring over, and using the "new" side. Has anyone disassembled the plunger to do this?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks