MEP-004A, No output

[peapvp]

Kris's Governor Control Cable is still broke, so he has to adjust it on the governor, that's why his rpm was so low to begin with....

Remember, the Freq transducer. It takes an AC signal, and converts it to a DC signal for the meter. And yes, its only on precise sets, that you can switch from 50 to 60 hertz.

 

[Guyfang]

Kris, once you have the set adjusted to the right volts and freq, NEVER, repeat, NEVER turn it down when stopping the set. The proper way to shut a load off is this way:

1. Turn the load off, at the load. A main power switch, or circuit breaker.

2. Then push the S3 AC contactor switch off.

3. You can, I never did, but you can, let the set run for a few minutes, to cool off, but if its not been under a very heavy load, a long time, this is not worth the time and fuel wastage.

4. Push S2 to the stop position.

5. Pull CB1 out.

6. Go drink beer.


You do not idle this puppy. It should always run at rated speed. You may need to make a few minor adjustments, now and then, but LEAVE IT ALONE when turning it off. That way it always starts up at the right Frequency.

 

[peapvp]

Kris,

this is real simple:

60Hz = 1,800 rpm

50Hz = 1,500 rpm

This is fixed - its 300 rpm difference - indicator will go to the right once you get to 1,650 rpm

With out the control cable working you can change rpm by +/- 500 rpm

The Frequency to rpm conversion is fixed by the number of actual poles the generator has - in this case 4 as it is three phase system

A 2 Pole Generator has the following conversion 60Hz = 3,600 RPM and is used only gasoline powered gensets

View attachment 777141

This is the HZ gage
As you can see it may take more than a little more RPM.
But I will start her up and try
Kris

 

[peapvp]

I was once invincible too, but that was a long time ago......

Welllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll, yes and no.

 

[Guyfang]

Kris's Governor Control Cable is still broke, so he has to adjust it on the governor, that's why his rpm was so low to begin with....

A field expedient way to get around this problem is to take some lacing wire, and wire back the throttle arm. DO IT EASY. Make it loose, and then I used a pair of lacing pliers to slowly tighten up the wire, until I hit the right hertz. Then left it there.

This is NOT a permanent fix. I used it only in an emergency, or for short tests.

 

[KLChurch]

Started her up.
Increased the rpm and it able to go past 60 HZ.
Wish I had a tachometer.
By ear I think it was somewhere between 20 and 40 percent increase in rpm.
Also the voltage when up but not much.
Kris

 

[Guyfang]

How much is not much?

 

[peapvp]

Great, now Kris for once and for all

RPM controls Frequency ONLY on Generators [it may bump the voltage a bit]

hence you GOT A VOLTAGE REGULATOR BOARD to regulate your Voltage - if rpm would control voltage you wouldn't need a Voltage Regulator Board

now with this thing now running at 60 Hz

Can you adjust the Voltage with the Voltage Adjust Rheostat R2 to 208V in any of Phase to Phase positions so we can finally confirm that your Generator Head is OK?

AND AT 60Hz on the Gauge YOUR ENGINE IS RUNNING AT 1,800 RPM - IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO RUN ON ANY OTHER SPEED AND INDICATE 60Hz


WHEN THE FREQUENCY TRANSDUCER FAILS - IT USUALLY FAILS COMPLETELY

Started her up.
Increased the rpm and it able to go past 60 HZ.
Wish I had a tachometer.
By ear I think it was somewhere between 20 and 40 percent increase in rpm.
Also the voltage when up but not much.
Kris

 

[KLChurch]

Guy thanks for the throttle fix. So I think I can incorporate the fix at where you are supposed to adjust it.
Also Peter told me where I can get a electronic step motor and board to set everything to the correct Hz.
I think with my limited brain cells and someone else that may start the beast up it would be a good thing to do.
Also I purchased the auto start from peter and will be incorporating.
If it haven't been for all of yall this gen would be a boat anchor. I know we got to go further but we had very good luck today.
Kris

 

[KLChurch]

How much is not much?

Still within the red lines.
There are two sets of red lines on the volt meter.
L1 L2 was between their 200 volt lines
L1 L0 was between their 100 volt lines
Kris

 

[peapvp]

Yes, indeed!

and NOW:

Guy thanks for the throttle fix. So I think I can incorporate the fix at where you are supposed to adjust it.
Also Peter told me where I can get a electronic step motor and board to set everything to the correct Hz.
I think with my limited brain cells and someone else that may start the beast up it would be a good thing to do.
Also I purchased the auto start from peter and will be incorporating.
If it haven't been for all of yall this gen would be a boat anchor. I know we got to go further but we had very good luck today.
Kris

 

[peapvp]

Ok, that tells us that 1/3 of your generator head is working until you rotate the voltage-amp switch through all positions and look, then we know we got 3/3 or one full generator

Still within the red lines.
There are two sets of red lines on the volt meter.
L1 L2 was between their 200 volt lines
L1 L0 was between their 100 volt lines
Kris

 

[KLChurch]

I guess I didn't explain myself correctly.
I rotated the L switch to all positions and they were within the respected position red lines on the voltmeter at 60 Hz.
Also they seemed to be stable not varying both Hz and volts.
Kris

 

[flydude92]

Well it's about time!!!!!!!!!

 

[KLChurch]

I haven't put the cover on A11 yet.
So do you think its time to do so or we need to check something inside?
I'm worried about the rain even though the outside covers are down.
Kris

 

[peapvp]

Kris, since it is still open it would be great to get reading on the DMM in DC Volt on the two test points Plus Heatsink CR1, 2, 3 and Negative on the Jumper Terminals #3 and #4 to verify that we are running within specs with the new T2 transformer when the Genset is running.
This way we know that everything is OK
Then we can close the Cover of A11 and call it good!
Thanks
Peter

I haven't put the cover on A11 yet.
So do you think its time to do so or we need to check something inside?
I'm worried about the rain even though the outside covers are down.
Kris

 

[KLChurch]

OK
So I put my DMM on the same place you documented previously in the DC volt mode on the DMM.
Then fire the gen up to 60 HZ.
Then read the DMM
Correct?
Kris

 

[peapvp]

Yes, I hope the Alligator Clips are working right and we can measure the DC Voltage

OK
So I put my DMM on the same place you documented previously in the DC volt mode on the DMM.
Then fire the gen up to 60 HZ.
Then read the DMM
Correct?
Kris

 

[peapvp]

Btw. you can leave the governor control temporary fix in place once you got it set to 60Hz - the Genset will then startup the next time to 60Hz without the need to readjust Frequency
but Guy can probably explain this better then I can
The system with the original control cable / knob is designed to stay in place at the selected frequency after you shut the genset off, this way it will go automatically go back to your selected frequency setting, requiring only minimal (+/- 1Hz) adjustment if any at all the next time the genset is started.

OK
So I put my DMM on the same place you documented previously in the DC volt mode on the DMM.
Then fire the gen up to 60 HZ.
Then read the DMM
Correct?
Kris

 

[Guyfang]

Btw. you can leave the governor control temporary fix in place once you got it set to 60Hz - the Genset will then startup the next time to 60Hz without the need to readjust Frequency
but Guy can probably explain this better then I can
The system with the original control cable / knob is designed to stay in place at the selected frequency after you shut the genset off, this way it will go automatically go back to your selected frequency setting, requiring only minimal (+/- 1Hz) adjustment if any at all the next time the genset is started.

This is correct. You can leave it there, but I would not do any heavy load testing yet. Like I explained before, normally, you only need to adjust hertz very little. But do get something to replace it.

When Peter is done with you, there are a few things we can/need, still do.

1. What other problems, missing parts need to be taken care of? we need to take a look at things. Maybe take some pictures and scrutinize them.

2. Two hour run test.
A. Then we know the day tank float works right.
B. Monitor engine temp.
C. Oil pressure.
D. Stability of AC Volts.
E. Stability of Hertz. As its wired to 60 Hertz, if we have any oscillation, could/should be a fuel problem.
F. Battery charging. Is it charging? Does it come down to Zero after a while? Or continue to charge, long after the batteries should be full (over charging)
G. Oil. Oil level. Using lots of oil? Or over filling the oil system with diesel? Coolant in it?
H. Coolant. Is is staying full? Is it clean? No oil in it?
I. Fault indicator works without "Mystery" lights coming on, but gen set stays running?
J. "Mystery" faults turning the set off?
K. Looking for leaks.
L. Loovers. Do they open? Do they close?
M. Shut down, and do PMCS.
N. Look for loose bolts and nuts.

3. The we do it one more time, but with a load. And longer. 4-6 hours. Then Kris, you can KNOW that the set will run. Run good. Run dependable. And we can compare the results, to make sure that all is well with the set. It sounds more complicated then it is.