MEP-004A, No output

[peapvp]

Kris,

this would be your modified wiring diagram:

S2A = 3 Pole 2 Position DPDT maintained action

S2B = 2 Pole 2 Position DPDT momentary action

Since I have very limited understanding of electrical schematics, I was wondering if anyone figured out the function of each wire during stop run and start positions.
I think maybe I can if I knew, figure things out using marine grade switches. Yall already said no but I'm stubborn.

 

[Guyfang]

This is the NSN and all the part numbers for the S2 switch. All MEP-004A through MEP-007A along with the 400 hertz models, used this switch.
5930-00-782-8590
69-572
8906K1359
04306-7116
13205E4785
308-244
5930007828590

 

[peapvp]

Thanks Guy,

8906K1359 Eaton / Cuttler Hammer Part Number
308-244 Cummins Power Part Number

Contacted my POC at Cummins Military Division, Part # 308-244 doesn't exit, turns out they always used 8 digit part numbers and the Government had their part number wrong in the NSN data base ever since that Switch was added as NSN.......

Cummins can't cross reference this part at all. We tried for the last three days.

This is the NSN and all the part numbers for the S2 switch. All MEP-004A through MEP-007A along with the 400 hertz models, used this switch.
5930-00-782-8590
69-572
8906K1359
04306-7116
13205E4785
308-244
5930007828590

 

[peapvp]

If someone who is reading / following this thread here and has a Cummins MEP 004A / 005A / 006A or 007A

and

would be willing to look at the S2 Switch (you have to unmount it from the panel)

and then

POST any and all letters / numbers / symbols which are on the switch, here on this tread, with pictures, that would be just great!

I will then pass this on to my POC at Cummins so they can update their Database and the NSN Database after 40+ years

Thank you in advance!

 

[KLChurch]

Above is now correct
the other is incorrect
Don't know whats going on
Guy, Brian, and Peter
Please verify My drawing
I think it is correct.
Kris

 

[peapvp]

Kris,

I compared it to Guy's switch legend he posted in Post # 507

and it matches. So I think your good.

Guy, Brian, and Peter
View attachment 777659Please verify My drawing
I think it is correct.
Kris

 

[KLChurch]

Peter
I corrected it again.
Please see post 525 again
The drawing you displayed has two P40T wires.
It is a jumper
Kris

 

[peapvp]

Yes, that's correct, that's how I interpreted it, as a jumper, with wire entry onto Terminal #2 and same on #11

In the world of electro mechanics, we use a wire list, which is what Guy created. Same wire number on two different terminals means that this wire number lands on one of the two terminals and then connects / jumpers from there to the other terminal - reflecting this what you got in your drawing - so we got two jumpers from 2 to 5 which is wire P40T and from 2 to 11 which is wire P40S in Guy's wire list

Peter
I corrected it again.
Please see post 525 again
The drawing you displayed has two P40T wires.
It is a jumper
Kris

 

[Guyfang]

Put it together and start it.

 

[KLChurch]

Got everything back together and ready to fire off.
I have to go to a funeral for a Viet Nam Vet tomorrow because he was a dear friend.
Had to make a Speech for him to prove how good a person he was.
Peter would have liked him because of his expertise in electrical engineering.
So tomorrow afternoon will be firing the sucker off.
Kris

 

[KLChurch]

Started the Gen and everything fired off.
Had the flip the switch about four times to start it.
Had to stop it because the IP seals are getting worse.
One line started spraying and two other started leaking.
I was afraid to flip the output power switch because of the diesel leak.
So I'm in the market to buy some seals.
Kris

 

[peapvp]

Kris,

just remember now. With the A11 in place, repaired and connected, that there is High Voltage in the entire Generator once you go to run mode - exactly of what is indicated on the front panel voltage gauge - there are only three wires from the contactor to the main out put terminals, which equates to less then 2 feet, of unpowered wires.

200+ feet of wires are alive and well...

I am curios to see of what the diagnosis is going to be with starting it and flipping the switch.

Is the starter engaging and not firing or is it not cranking at all?

Started the Gen and everything fired off.
Had the flip the switch about four times to start it.
Had to stop it because the IP seals are getting worse.
One line started spraying and two other started leaking.
I was afraid to flip the output power switch because of the diesel leak.
So I'm in the market to buy some seals.
Kris

 

[Guyfang]

Kris,

Didn't I send you the info for the copper washers for the IP before?

 

[Guyfang]

Copy the info off the IP. Call Stanadyne Corperation Tell them you want injector line washers for that pump. Two washers per injector line. I think J Deer might be able to help you too.

 

[KLChurch]

Peter,
If the starter cranks the gen starts immediately.
It is if sometimes it is not getting enough juice (you only hear the cyliniod trying to get the juice), but continuing flipping the switch it seems it got plenty of juice and cranks fast and fires off.
As far as I know normally when you hear the cyliniod only (it is like a hum), it is not getting the juice, Loose wire, corroded wire.

Guy thanks for the info.
Will go shopping tomorrow
I bought an assortment of copper washers, but I guess they were not the correct size
The seals I uninstalled were black and seemed to be rubber or plastic. Maybe I am wrong.
So I will take them out and measure them. I have very accurate calipers.
Kris

 

[peapvp]

Kris,

Besides the solenoid on the starter itself, there is the Battle Short Switch S7 which connects to the Speed Switch 9-1 and a Diode CR3 (I think only on precise units) which supply power to the crank relay K3 when Switch S2 is held in Start Position.
Crank Relay K3 then activates the Starter Solenoid.

so, we got four or five different possible devices for failure.

I am sure Guy knows the easiest way to trouble shoot this. I recently had a customer with a similar problem on his 803A and in that case it turned out to be failing crank relay.

Can we rule out your wire fix issue you had in SP Box for good? That would have to be the first thing to rule when properly fixed.

Peter,
If the starter cranks the gen starts immediately.
It is if sometimes it is not getting enough juice (you only hear the cyliniod trying to get the juice), but continuing flipping the switch it seems it got plenty of juice and cranks fast and fires off.
As far as I know normally when you hear the cyliniod only (it is like a hum), it is not getting the juice, Loose wire, corroded wire.

Guy thanks for the info.
Will go shopping tomorrow
I bought an assortment of copper washers, but I guess they were not the correct size
The seals I uninstalled were black and seemed to be rubber or plastic. Maybe I am wrong.
So I will take them out and measure them. I have very accurate calipers.
Kris

 

[peapvp]

As to the seal / washer issue, I would go with Guy's suggestion - whatever you may have found currently in place for those may have been put in there by someone else who had absolutely no clue on what he was doing and are not the original ones.......

Peter,
If the starter cranks the gen starts immediately.
It is if sometimes it is not getting enough juice (you only hear the cyliniod trying to get the juice), but continuing flipping the switch it seems it got plenty of juice and cranks fast and fires off.
As far as I know normally when you hear the cyliniod only (it is like a hum), it is not getting the juice, Loose wire, corroded wire.

Guy thanks for the info.
Will go shopping tomorrow
I bought an assortment of copper washers, but I guess they were not the correct size
The seals I uninstalled were black and seemed to be rubber or plastic. Maybe I am wrong.
So I will take them out and measure them. I have very accurate calipers.
Kris

 

[KLChurch]

Peter
Thanks for the Doc,
So if the battle short does not need to be flipped but once can it rule out a lot?
Kris

Kris,

Besides the solenoid on the starter itself, there is the Battle Short Switch S7 which connects to the Speed Switch 9-1 and a Diode CR3 (I think only on precise units) which supply power to the crank relay K3 when Switch S2 is held in Start Position.
Crank Relay K3 then activates the Starter Solenoid.

so, we got four or five different possible devices for failure.

I am sure Guy knows the easiest way to trouble shoot this. I recently had a customer with a similar problem on his 803A and in that case it turned out to be failing crank relay.

Can we rule out your wire fix issue you had in SP Box for good? That would have to be the first thing to rule when properly fixed.


View attachment 777892

 

[peapvp]

Kris,

I am going to defer this to Guy, as he is intimately familiar with troubleshooting this.

Peter
Thanks for the Doc,
So if the battle short does not need to be flipped but once can it rule out a lot?
Kris

 

[KLChurch]

Ordered the washers from amazon. Be hear later this week
Kris