fpac
New member
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- Bedford, IN
Hi all. I'm a relatively new member. So far i've just read through various threads to figure out issues with our 998 Humvee and M929 6x6 and now our 006a...we get them through the Federal Excess Property Program.
This is a bit windy, but hopefully it will provide you with enough information to help.
We received a surplus 006a, 60Hz unit, from the forest service a year or so ago with only 200 hours on it for back up power...various buildings, grain system, wells etc. It's been on the back burner, working on it as I have time. I have serviced it and put in two new batteries.
Once I finished servicing it, i was able to start the engine and it ran fine. I had to pull the injection pump after servicing it to replace cup/seal on the shaft...allowing fuel into the oil. The 2nd issue that surfaced was at times the electric fuel pump wouldn't run to fill the day tank when I flipped the battle short switch to make sure the tank was full. Somehow I figured out (about a year ago) I could mess with the temperature safety switch to get the entire system to work. I thought the switch was bad, but in hindsight I think the solder job on some wires within the switch from it's previous life had worked loose and it was simply grounding out. I could tap on the switch housing and the electric pumps would run so I knew I could start the engine. I took the switch apart and could see excess solder, loose wires. Switch mechanism itself was fine. We tried to resolder it but ended up with a bigger mess.
I put on a new coolant switch and now I cannot get the pumps to run with or without the use of the battle short switch. I compared switches with the multi-meter making sure plug pins were the same, continuity was the same etc. At it's previous location, for whatever reason, the oil pressure safety switch and coolant safety switch plug wires were cut and reconnected. I have studied parts of the TM's and believe the wires are going to the correct spot in the plugs. I have checked the battle short switch; off/run/start switch, the DC circuit breaker and generally looked at all the wires to try to make sure I don't have something broken. The fuse on the panel is good. Battle short light comes on when switch is on. All the indicator lights work when I hit the test/reset switch. I have noticed that the low oil pressure light doesn't come on when i flip the battle switch. When I've watched a youtube video posted by Matt Verley (I think he's member here) it looks like his light does come on when he's starting his 006a and goes out when pressure if up.
Checking things with a multi-meter and/or test light I have found that at the oil pressure switch and coolant safety switch when I ground out wires P201C16 (oil) or P200G16 (coolant) based on page 81 of TM-12, the system gets power...ie I hear the fuel pumps kick on.
There is a lot I don't understand on the wiring schematics, esp the page 81 I referenced, so I may very well be overlooking something simple. Within the relay box I don't see a letter C or a letter Z in the "bar" connection to make sure the wires mentioned above are going to the correct stud. Not even sure that where bar "P5" is...or if it's labeled. Pulling numbers off wires within the box, I haven't found them on the schematic on page 81 so I may be looking at the wrong page at that point?? It is a bit of a mess within the box...some of the zip ties on the looms were cut and some of the wire ends in the relay box assembly appear to have been replaced...newer red connectors vs what i assume are the original whitish gray ends. i've also referred to the schematic on page 64 - "DC troubleshooting diagram" when checking the off/run/start, battle short etc.
As I've attempted to trace the wire loom going to the OP switch, WT switch, FL switch, I've wondered about the relay (I think it's "CR 27" -- about top center on page 81) on the piece of angle iron right above the day tank. It seems to be good. I can put 24 volts to it and hear it click. I think the wires are on it correctly, but it doesn't 'fire' the fuel pumps when I energize the relay... and maybe it shouldn't?
One last issue I'd noticed recently (and it may have been like this since I've had it) is the substance within the thermal converter behind the control panel has leaked out. Looks like hardened epoxy. I realize I'll likely need to replace that at some point, but wasn't sure if it had anything to do with the engine starting.
So my questions for you all. Are there better schematics to follow or a page I need to read? Is there something simple I'm overlooking or having an 'idiot attack" looking right at the obvious? I have thought about simply splicing a wire into P201C16 or P200G16 and running it to the engine block etc, but fear it'll completely bypass a safety switch and have a coolant hose burst and lock up the engine, as an example, trying to cut corners now.
Appreciate any pointers you all might be able to provide. Thanks for your time
Brad
This is a bit windy, but hopefully it will provide you with enough information to help.
We received a surplus 006a, 60Hz unit, from the forest service a year or so ago with only 200 hours on it for back up power...various buildings, grain system, wells etc. It's been on the back burner, working on it as I have time. I have serviced it and put in two new batteries.
Once I finished servicing it, i was able to start the engine and it ran fine. I had to pull the injection pump after servicing it to replace cup/seal on the shaft...allowing fuel into the oil. The 2nd issue that surfaced was at times the electric fuel pump wouldn't run to fill the day tank when I flipped the battle short switch to make sure the tank was full. Somehow I figured out (about a year ago) I could mess with the temperature safety switch to get the entire system to work. I thought the switch was bad, but in hindsight I think the solder job on some wires within the switch from it's previous life had worked loose and it was simply grounding out. I could tap on the switch housing and the electric pumps would run so I knew I could start the engine. I took the switch apart and could see excess solder, loose wires. Switch mechanism itself was fine. We tried to resolder it but ended up with a bigger mess.
I put on a new coolant switch and now I cannot get the pumps to run with or without the use of the battle short switch. I compared switches with the multi-meter making sure plug pins were the same, continuity was the same etc. At it's previous location, for whatever reason, the oil pressure safety switch and coolant safety switch plug wires were cut and reconnected. I have studied parts of the TM's and believe the wires are going to the correct spot in the plugs. I have checked the battle short switch; off/run/start switch, the DC circuit breaker and generally looked at all the wires to try to make sure I don't have something broken. The fuse on the panel is good. Battle short light comes on when switch is on. All the indicator lights work when I hit the test/reset switch. I have noticed that the low oil pressure light doesn't come on when i flip the battle switch. When I've watched a youtube video posted by Matt Verley (I think he's member here) it looks like his light does come on when he's starting his 006a and goes out when pressure if up.
Checking things with a multi-meter and/or test light I have found that at the oil pressure switch and coolant safety switch when I ground out wires P201C16 (oil) or P200G16 (coolant) based on page 81 of TM-12, the system gets power...ie I hear the fuel pumps kick on.
There is a lot I don't understand on the wiring schematics, esp the page 81 I referenced, so I may very well be overlooking something simple. Within the relay box I don't see a letter C or a letter Z in the "bar" connection to make sure the wires mentioned above are going to the correct stud. Not even sure that where bar "P5" is...or if it's labeled. Pulling numbers off wires within the box, I haven't found them on the schematic on page 81 so I may be looking at the wrong page at that point?? It is a bit of a mess within the box...some of the zip ties on the looms were cut and some of the wire ends in the relay box assembly appear to have been replaced...newer red connectors vs what i assume are the original whitish gray ends. i've also referred to the schematic on page 64 - "DC troubleshooting diagram" when checking the off/run/start, battle short etc.
As I've attempted to trace the wire loom going to the OP switch, WT switch, FL switch, I've wondered about the relay (I think it's "CR 27" -- about top center on page 81) on the piece of angle iron right above the day tank. It seems to be good. I can put 24 volts to it and hear it click. I think the wires are on it correctly, but it doesn't 'fire' the fuel pumps when I energize the relay... and maybe it shouldn't?
One last issue I'd noticed recently (and it may have been like this since I've had it) is the substance within the thermal converter behind the control panel has leaked out. Looks like hardened epoxy. I realize I'll likely need to replace that at some point, but wasn't sure if it had anything to do with the engine starting.
So my questions for you all. Are there better schematics to follow or a page I need to read? Is there something simple I'm overlooking or having an 'idiot attack" looking right at the obvious? I have thought about simply splicing a wire into P201C16 or P200G16 and running it to the engine block etc, but fear it'll completely bypass a safety switch and have a coolant hose burst and lock up the engine, as an example, trying to cut corners now.
Appreciate any pointers you all might be able to provide. Thanks for your time
Brad