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Got notification that my custom tarp cover shipped. Should be here by next week. Will share pictures when I get it on.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Looks good. What size did you order and Link?Tarp is great! It fits a little lop-sides for me because of the power cables coming out. I may re-route them to come out the bottom so that way the tarp sits square & tight.
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I added the clip straps on the bottom. Worked out great because they are just long enough to wrap around the rail on the trailer so I could even tow with the tarp on.
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Here's the post with the direct link. Use the dimensions of the generator that are in the TM. That's what I did & it worked out well!Looks good. What size did you order and Link?
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I have a 802a and a 804a. Looking to add screens to the vents. Any pictures out there? Thinking about cutting up some old Anderson window screen frames for the louvers (sides and top). Does anyone also plug up the other holes (which ones) also to keep mud dobbers out. Here in Maryland we have a bunch of lazy mud dobbers that take the easy way out and lay their eggs in my male end air hoses. I have a carport with a tire changer and a sand blast cabinet that they love every year. Guess that they dont think the metal will be too hard to break out when hatching. Well that is one way the lazy bees will be self eliminated.Pretty sure I bought a set of screens from you - once I had yours, they were pretty easy to copy/make from parts at the big box hdwr store [would've bought locally, mom-pop store I've gone to for 24 years - but I was told they're getting out of the screen making business, had no frame parts].
I took the box off the door. Don't really need it. Airflow through that side vent is much better, as evidenced by all the insects stuck to the screen while the set was running AFTER I removed the box. Thinking of using it in the HMMWV somewhere, or my tacoma bed.
Not sure but with a tank of fuel that is a lot of weight on those tabs. Would a horse mat cut to fit under the tank do better. This is a rubber mat with some air bubbles it it. Maybe cut the mats into strips for moisture drying since a large pad like will keep the surfaces wet. Thanks for the updates. I need to get after my 802 but have to many other irons in the fire at the present.Haven't updated in a while because I've just been using it!
Up to 342 hours.
Taking it out again this weekend & did some pre-trip checks.
Found a bit of an oil leak that I'm not sure where it's coming from. I suspect the crank case gasket? It ends up all pooling at the motor mounts. Not really worried considering how old the machine is. it wasn't anywhere near low on the dipstick. I keep an extra quart with it anyways. Tried to upload a picture but for some reason that one keeps failing.
Noticed that the mounting tabs on my fuel tank bent a little. Going to run angle iron along each side to help support better.
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I didn't just notice this now, but a while ago. It seems my engine never gets into the normal operation area. It was mid 90's today & I ran it under 110% load for 45 minuets & the needle never went above where you see it in the picture. It does slowly clime from cold when starting.
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I got a brand new battery maintainer kit for this with the little solar panel on a trade. Trying to figure out where I want to mount the panel since it has a tarp on it when not in use.
I'm just really happy with all the headache that this gave me at first it's finally just working well!
Look at the wire harnes where it is touching, or almost touching the air intake sheet metal. This is a place that was a constant problem for the army. The wires rub on the sheet metal and wear through. I used wire ties to pull them back a tad. I also took double sided tape and a thin piece of rubber sheet, to simply take care of the problem. There are probably a million other ways to cure this problem.How to keep it against the sheet metal. Just need to remove before operating.
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It's not bad, just seems to run cooler than I remember. Before I had the radiator fixed, it would always be between the two unmarked notches. Guess it just works better now! It could be due to the thermostat opening a bit sooner as well. Just a little surprising since it's really hot down here to begin with.Coolant temp looks fine to me from here?
You're right & I just didn't think of it. A lot of weight for those tabs! I plan to run angle iron across the short ways to help. Should do the trick. Regular rubber pads still don't help enough with vibration... I did try that already.Not sure but with a tank of fuel that is a lot of weight on those tabs. Would a horse mat cut to fit under the tank do better. This is a rubber mat with some air bubbles it it. Maybe cut the mats into strips for moisture drying since a large pad like will keep the surfaces wet. Thanks for the updates. I need to get after my 802 but have to many other irons in the fire at the present.
I'm going to give mine a look & see if I need to do that. Thanks!Look at the wire harnes where it is touching, or almost touching the air intake sheet metal. This is a place that was a constant problem for the army. The wires rub on the sheet metal and wear through. I used wire ties to pull them back a tad. I also took double sided tape and a thin piece of rubber sheet, to simply take care of the problem. There are probably a million other ways to cure this problem.
Per the -10:It's not bad, just seems to run cooler than I remember. Before I had the radiator fixed, it would always be between the two unmarked notches. Guess it just works better now! It could be due to the thermostat opening a bit sooner as well. Just a little surprising since it's really hot down here to begin with.