MEP-802A fuel tank removal.

[campwell]

I am in the process of removing the fuel tank but I can’t get it to come out. Everything is disconnected for removal. The tank will slide back-and-forth sideways from side to side, but cannot get it to tilt forward to come out. Looks like I am going to have to remove the sheet metal above the tank so I can pick it straight up and out. Any suggestions!!

Thanks for any help you can offer for this lame question,
Larry

 

[ethernaut85]

I hear you brother. I am in the same boat. I have a leaking remote fuel drain fitting and I'd love to hear the resolution.

 

[zarathustra]

I've taken out a 803a and an 802a tank, and I had to take out the entire rear section of sheet metal out. That would include the radiator et al. That tank had to be the very first thing installed, 'cause it certainly is the last thing out.

If there is any way to fix whatever problem you have without removing the tank, I'd opt for that first. Probably second as well.

 

[campwell]

Well that confirms it, I’m going not going to take the tank all the way out. The tank has about an 1/8” inch of gunky old fuel, consistency of soft tar. I’ve been using acetone to clean it, works quite well, but is a very messy job. Taking out all the fuel sending units, replacing the fuel gauge sending unit and fixed the auxiliary fuel pump sending unit. Replacing all fuel filters, cleaning out all fuel lines and fittings. Replacing deteriorated fuel return line. Hopefully injection pump and injectors are not gummed up.

 

[cuad4u]

When it comes to repair the 002A and 003A generators were MUCH MORE user friendly than the 802A and 803A. I have at least one of each type and I speak from experience.

 

[CT-Mike]

I recently removed the tank from my -803 to replace a leaky drain valve. Zarathustra is correct in that you have to remove the radiator and all sheet metal above the tank. Complete PITA.

 

[lindyp38]

My 803a is leaking....I hope its not the fuel tank.....Any videos on removing the tank?
Thanks Mario

 

[DieselAddict]

I've not seen a video. Its a pretty straight forward but maddening process. Maddening because WHY DOES IT HAVE TO BE THAT WAY?!

You start by removing the top panel over the engine. You remove the end cover over the fuel filler. Then you remove the radiator and its support bulkhead. After removing what seems like a thousand screws the tank lifts right out.

 

[Korgoth1]

Be a good time to clean the radiator.

 

[kb3bf]

Thanks for all your postings on the MEP-802A, as the information provided here is absolutely priceless.

I just got a 1994 unit with 1500 hrs and I am already finding out it is hard to start as there are lots of air bubbles in yellow fuel lines. The fuel tank can't hold any pressure, but I can't tell where it is leaking. I tried everything to remove the fuel tank without dismantling most of the generator, but from what I read here that's wishful thinking. So I am gathering lots of patience and getting ready for some major screw removal job.
Begging to ask a question to the diesel experts here, what is the best method to prime the fuel lines once the leaks are fixed? Vacuum, pressure and starting at which end? Many thanks.

 

[DiverDarrell]

Just turn the switch to run. It self primes. Because if you have to bleed the injectors your in for a real treat, cause that's a real real pain in the butt. Hopefully you still have all the panels off.

 

[gunsgreg]

Start taking panels off. Really not as bad as it looks...

 

[Chrispyny]

I recall someone here recently posted about his fix for a leaky remote drain fitting.

Have we all come to a conclusion as to what the proper fix is for this leak? I mean, getting to it is one thing, but what is the official fix? Is there a new gasket or part we should be looking up? I ask cause i swear i filled up my tank to the rim when i placed it on its pad a month ago or so. And although i have run it a few times to warm it up and show it off, i can't imagine i burnt through 1.5-2 gal of diesel doing so. Although the genset is clean and puddle free, when i first open any of the doors, i get a strong scent of diesel. Even though i can NOT find diesel leaking anywhere, it's possible i'm loosing fuel somewhere. It could just be me.
I'd like to know what the official fix is in the event i decide to tear it down this spring to see if it's leaking.
Thanks

 

[kb3bf]

OK, if I understand correctly just fix the tank leak, replace the return line and all the soft fuel lines, and don't bleed the fuel lines because it is self priming?

The unit worked OK a few times when I first got it and produced power, then it became harder to start, that's when I noticed air in the yellow lines. Hopefully fixing the tank and new lines should remedy the starting problem.
The fuel pump could be another issue. If so I will swap it with the aux one. I do hear the solenoid pulsating during the starting process but the pump resistance seems to be way off, about 29KOhms. That does not seem right, it should be much lower. I will check the aux one and measure/compare also fuel pressures.
We shall see.
Many thanks again for the feedbacks and comments. This is a great FORUM.

 

[DiverDarrell]

If it's pumping bubbles then you have a leak between the tank pickup and the pump. I would check the fittings first. This would cause the hard start as noted. Before you start, try letting the pump run for 30 seconds first to see if this helps.

 

[dependable]

I recall someone here recently posted about his fix for a leaky remote drain fitting.

Have we all come to a conclusion as to what the proper fix is for this leak? I mean, getting to it is one thing, but what is the official fix? Is there a new gasket or part we should be looking up? I ask cause i swear i filled up my tank to the rim when i placed it on its pad a month ago or so. And although i have run it a few times to warm it up and show it off, i can't imagine i burnt through 1.5-2 gal of diesel doing so. Although the genset is clean and puddle free, when i first open any of the doors, i get a strong scent of diesel. Even though i can NOT find diesel leaking anywhere, it's possible i'm loosing fuel somewhere. It could just be me.
I'd like to know what the official fix is in the event i decide to tear it down this spring to see if it's leaking.
Thanks

I have the same problem. The leak is so slow, it was only evident when there was ice on the slab that kept the fuel from being absorbed by concrete. Post below mentions the fix I have to do at some point.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...02a-amp-803a&p=1498506&viewfull=1#post1498506

 

[Guyfang]

Korgoth1 and Dieseladdict are right. Its a PITA, but there is no other way. And the radiator always needs to be cleaned. At the same time, you can chect out everything else to see if its in good shape.

WARNING, WARNING Will Robinson! Do not get Acetone on your fuel float switch. If you do, you will get to see what the floats look like, without the foam on the floats. Just three little magnets leftover.

The reason the tank wont come out easy is because the tank is made to fit over the fork lift tunnel that goes through the skid.

 

[Guyfang]

Oh, for the slow leakers. Check the fuel tank drain petcock. The expandable plug it screws into is often loose, or someone has over tightened it and tears the captive nut loose inside the rubber plug. Then it never gets tight, but seeps forever. The expandable plug CAN be changed without pulling the tank. You don't even need to drain the tank. Just put some 2X4's under the side of the set to raise it up.

Guyfang

 

[Chrispyny]

Oh, for the slow leakers. Check the fuel tank drain petcock. The expandable plug it screws into is often loose, or someone has over tightened it and tears the captive nut loose inside the rubber plug. Then it never gets tight, but seeps forever. The expandable plug CAN be changed without pulling the tank. You don't even need to drain the tank. Just put some 2X4's under the side of the set to raise it up.

Guyfang

Is this below the fuel tank on the tank itself, or the petcock on the side of the skid? Thanks !

 

[Korgoth1]

If anyone has a set that leaks when its moved or when its filled up to the brim, the fillerneck/tank rubber is rotted.