MEP 803a governor question

[Ray70]

Something you could try is to 1 by 1 remove the line and injector, reorient it so it's off to the side of the motor and crank it over and observe the fuel spray from each metering pump / injector combo. If you find 1 that doesn't spray when it should or continues to spray after the fuel solenoid is in the off position then you can at least narrow it down to the offending cyl. and investigate further.
When you say the motor won't turn off, does it continue to run at speed or does it die down but just barely continue at a low idle?
If it is staying at speed despite the FSS pushing the lever to the off position, then I would suspect a metering pump pin is not in the rack, or the rack is bent etc. If it idles low and just won't quite shut off You may need to adjust them or adjust the lever stop as Lucky described.
You also want all the metering pumps rotated counter clockwise as far as they will go until the fuel inlet hose is touching the adjacent pushrod tube.
If any pumps are spaced away from the pushrod ( too far clockwise ) that can cause that pump to not quite turn off completely.
Differences in pump orientation can also cause differences in fuel delivery and EGT's between cylinders, so we all typically put all 4 right against the pushrod tubes.

 

[rickf]

Seems to me that is inviting an oil leak from a worn through pushrod tube. I would space it away from the tube using a feeler gauge to get the exact same on each one. You only need a few thousandths clearance to prevent abrasion.

 

[Ray70]

Perhaps, but it's rubber touching steel and the part that touches is where the steel nipple of the metering pump is inside the hose, so there is very little chance for any vibration or movement between them, but setting them all with a slight gap would work just fine.

 

[LuckeyD]

I read each reply and one member touched on something. In post '13 you state the pumps are new and after a bad experience installing, you state they all worked freely. The member post that started me thinking asked if it tried to slow or just kept running as if nothing was different. So lets talk both.
I asked to pull 1 pump and see if the rack was freely moving. The video helps but the idea was to see if the rack was stuck, bound, or sticking inside. If you move the shut off back and forth you see inside if it moves freely. If this is good I'll ask if the fuel solenoid depowers and pushed the shut off to the no fuel position or does it not budge. Here is why. The solenoid is spring loaded to extend the arm out so it pushed the fuel shut off from the governor to the no fuel position. This shuts the engine off. The solenoid has a common(ground from chassis) and a hold from terminal 3 of the start switch, and a pull from the K16 that is removed after the mag pickup engages the K16 with 2.5-3.5VAC that is applied to the S14 funny looking relay that also flashed the generator field and makes AC production start. Removing 1 pump and looking or feeling if the rack is free and if the solenoid is working correctly narrows what is wrong with your no shut off condition. Let us know and oh, Pages 3-18 thru 3-25 TM 9-2815-253-24 in the forum manuals explains the pumps, the factory settings, and how to measure so you may time the pumps using the shims which are very thin but very important and uses a block enabling you to easily install pumps but again you need to remove the governor gear housing and we all tried to say how to do this without doing that. Not timed correctly causes low power in a new engine thus the gen can not hold a 100% load. Old engines where the rings are not seated yet from oil film build up, rust is another story. So let us know what happens. Cool?

 

[rickf]

You mentioned you replaced ONE pump? Did you manage to get that other one bent back straight? I would do the test Lucky is mentioning and if one is hanging u that bent one would be the one I pull.