Something your missing when you removed K8. K8 wouldn't effect the 24volt system. Did you check CB1 (DC breaker) and make sure your battle short is not on. DC powers goes to CB1 then emergency stop then to the master switch.
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MEP-803a overload circuit
- Thread starter jamawieb
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Is the Red Emergency Stop switch accidentally pushed in?
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LID,
Stop. Take a breather. There are two possible reasons it won't work.
You mis wired it. If it ran before, it should if you wired it right.
It has more then one problem.
So, re check the K8 wires.
Then start at the start. Go to the S1, and troubleshoot like I know you can. Do not try and figure out why, do the troubleshooting. Find out why it won't start.
If you hit a stone wall, put the old K8 back in. See if it starts, but only last resort.
Are you sure it's the right K8? Part number matches?
Stop. Take a breather. There are two possible reasons it won't work.
You mis wired it. If it ran before, it should if you wired it right.
It has more then one problem.
So, re check the K8 wires.
Then start at the start. Go to the S1, and troubleshoot like I know you can. Do not try and figure out why, do the troubleshooting. Find out why it won't start.
If you hit a stone wall, put the old K8 back in. See if it starts, but only last resort.
Are you sure it's the right K8? Part number matches?
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I must have hit the emergency stop when reassembling the control box hinge... **** do I feel dumb. I owe kloppk a six pack, I think. I was so frustrated (I've had this laryngitis for like 3 weeks now) that it had taken that long to do the swap over (though I was very certain to make sure to double check the schematic to make sure each position was located properly).
She runs. I'll see if the new part clears up the concerns tomorrow. Thanks all.
She runs. I'll see if the new part clears up the concerns tomorrow. Thanks all.
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It happens to the best of us.
What's the third step in the troubleshooting diagram, in the -10 manual, for: Will not crank?
What's the third step in the troubleshooting diagram, in the -10 manual, for: Will not crank?
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I believe that would be "Open -10 manual"
. I just dropped the project and came in for lunch and to post the question, experiencing ultimate frustration. You finally shake your sickness?
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It's much better. But still not right. The Frau Doctor, (she is from Mongolila) gave me antibiotics because she thinks I may have a touch of bronchitis or pneumonia. So we shall see. The weather has warmed up and i took a short ride on my bike, with everyone and his dog in disagreement. Just could not see it, when the temp is almost 20 c. And the streets dry. Need to get my wind back.
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20c sounds like a wonderful temp for a ride! I used to head west every winter for a round of trade shows, in the process, trading New England February for mid 60s Southern California. The locals would be scurrying around in coats... I'm just looking for a nice outdoor cafe to grab a bite at to enjoy the wonderful weather!
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So, the new K8 did not fix the problem. It is still going into overload condition. AND.. I have pneumonia. Fun all around.
Getting 12-18" of snow tonight, so I have it out back, knowing it will run our place just fine until I can get back to it (we have very little draw requirement).
Getting 12-18" of snow tonight, so I have it out back, knowing it will run our place just fine until I can get back to it (we have very little draw requirement).
robson1015
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Pneumonia and 18" of snow !!!! You could use some good news brother.......Wish I was closer to help out
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Oh yeah, great combo. By the time I came back from the doctors office around noon, my wife had prepared a bone broth for me. She's a keeper.
My next guess as to what the problem might be here, are the burden resistors. Thoughts?
My next guess as to what the problem might be here, are the burden resistors. Thoughts?
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Possibly...
When you are running at 100% load the voltage across R10, R11 & R12 ought to be ~5.6 VAC based on my calculations.
Or if at 50% load ~2.8 VAC.
Check it if you get a chance the next time you run it at one of those loads.
I too am looking at 12-20" of snow over here in Pepperell, MA.
When you are running at 100% load the voltage across R10, R11 & R12 ought to be ~5.6 VAC based on my calculations.
Or if at 50% load ~2.8 VAC.
Check it if you get a chance the next time you run it at one of those loads.
I too am looking at 12-20" of snow over here in Pepperell, MA.
Light, Kloppk helped me with these same tests and he is dead on with his calculations for testing the resistors. I tested mine and ruled them out. He suggested I get another overload relay and it solved my issue. I had the 802 up to 32 amps for short periods this past weekend. I also think cleaning S8,etc with contact cleaner and cycling them helped. You will find the solution.
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We have pneumonia. Mine is according to Frau Doctor not too advanced. Not good.
After looking at the burden resistors, if they are good, look at the CT's, and maybe see if they are wound properly.
The interesting problem is that its disconnecting the load even with the battle short on. Something is breaking the current flow from the interrupter switch to the K1 contactor. Usually with a bad burden resistor, you will get an overload fault and is easily bypassed by the battle short. I still say someone was messing around in the control cubicle and connected wires incorrectly. My guess is something connected wrong on K1 or S8.
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Ok, so I misspoke (or was not clear). So the overload light was still coming on. I did not take the additional step of running with the battle short on (I really shouldnt have been out there messing with the set to begin with, so I wasn't going to push my luck). I will though, and will check the CTs, K1, and S8. All more work I did NOT intend on...
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Ok so riddle me this, Batman...
So I have a little bit of time to play with this today. Just hooked up the bank, and got it to temp and flipped it on. So I am getting about 8 minutes of run under load (about 75% on the gauge, about 10.8kw of dryer element). So the generator is still disconnecting power, but now I am not getting an overload light... Battle short is off still, as it should not effect this test (as the idiot light panel is not part of the equation now).
Hmm...
So I have a little bit of time to play with this today. Just hooked up the bank, and got it to temp and flipped it on. So I am getting about 8 minutes of run under load (about 75% on the gauge, about 10.8kw of dryer element). So the generator is still disconnecting power, but now I am not getting an overload light... Battle short is off still, as it should not effect this test (as the idiot light panel is not part of the equation now).
Hmm...
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It was also doing this when testing 5.4 + 2.7kw.
Does anyone have a simple wire schematic for the S8 that is cleaned up? What seems more likely here... something is miswired on the S8, or that the S8 might be faulty?
Does anyone have a simple wire schematic for the S8 that is cleaned up? What seems more likely here... something is miswired on the S8, or that the S8 might be faulty?
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| Wire number | From | To |
| 002A | S08-02 | TB3-2 |
| 008A | S08-03 | TB3-8 |
| 010A | S08-08 | TB3-10 |
| 004A | S08-09 | TB3-4 |
| 167B | S08-13 | TB4-1 |
| 179B | S08-14 | P6-32 |
| 006A | S08-20 | TB3-6 |
| 007A | S08-22 | TB3-7 |
| 012A | S08-26 | TB3-12 |
| 005A | S08-32 | TB3-5 |
| 011A | S08-36 | TB3-11 |
| 009A | S08-38 | TB3-9 |
| 167A | S08-41 | TB4-1 |
| 176C | S08-43 | P6-12 |
| 162B | S08-44 | P6-7 |
| 160B | S08-45 | P6-8 |
| 177B | S08-46 | P6-10 |
| 175B | S08-47 | P6-9 |
| 001A | S08-L1 | TB3-1 |
| 001B | S08-L1 | K1-A1 |
| 002B | S08-L2 | K1-B1 |
| 003A | S08-L3 | TB3-3 |
| 003B | S08-L3 | K1-C1 |
| 006B | S08-LO | TB2-LO |
| 006D | S08-LO | TB4-4 |
How is that? Works? SO8 is S8
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That's awesome Guy, the forum thanks you.
I took the operator cover off this morning, and set to checking all TBs, all connections, and to bathe the S8 in deoxit, like it was visiting a Turkish spa. I found two wires on a TB that were not loose, but could take an additional 1/16th of a turn. I thoroughly sprayed the S8, and let flare off.
I wheeled the set back to my testing area, threw the top back on, and let it get up to temp (nothing moves too quick in -18C, myself included). I proceeded to put load on it, and I think we have success. It took 10.8kw with no sign of stopping, and I ran it at the full 13.5kw resistive for 20 minutes, and she is still purring.
I took the operator cover off this morning, and set to checking all TBs, all connections, and to bathe the S8 in deoxit, like it was visiting a Turkish spa. I found two wires on a TB that were not loose, but could take an additional 1/16th of a turn. I thoroughly sprayed the S8, and let flare off.
I wheeled the set back to my testing area, threw the top back on, and let it get up to temp (nothing moves too quick in -18C, myself included). I proceeded to put load on it, and I think we have success. It took 10.8kw with no sign of stopping, and I ran it at the full 13.5kw resistive for 20 minutes, and she is still purring.