Mep-805b No power to adc100-24 injection pump actuator. ESD5551 output power failure. Solution

[mep805b]

Mep-805b No power to adc100-24 injection pump actuator. ESD5551 output power failure. Solution



Hello all. This will probably be my only post as I am rarely on the internet. I wanted to stop by and contribute as I have gained a ton of information from this forum over the past week.

I purchased a used non-running MEP805b unit a couple of weeks ago. It was advertised as needing a mechanical fuel pump. No problem. It arrived, we put one in and it didn’t fire. The power supply light on the ESD5551 “Speed Control Unit” would not light up. This told me the unit was not getting power in or out. The Actuator light would not light at all when turning the engine over. This light should flash for about 3 seconds when starting, even if it doesn’t start. I tested voltage to the ADC100-24 injection pump actuator and it was not getting power. I was able to run 24v from one of the lights on the control panel to the injection pump and it started. You can hear it click when powered. DON’T DO THIS for more than 10 seconds as the speed is not governed. This told me the pump system was fine and it was getting fuel. I was able to trace the issue back to the ESD5551 board. Attached is a photo that shows the two components that were replaced with part numbers. About 70 cents. This restored power to the injection pump and the machine is running now. I still have some tuning work to do but it starts and runs. Parts were purchased from the guys at westfloridacomponents. Other cap suppliers will have the same products. WFC helped us cross reference part numbers making this project possible.



Notes: Try replacing one component at a time. They both may not be bad. Replacing these components should be done by a skilled electronics tech with a good hot air station and solder iron. The silicone epoxy does not melt. It will have to be picked / scraped off. The clear epoxy can be replaced with MG Chemicals 422b compound.



If anyone has dead ESD5551 units laying around I would be interested in them. Please PM me.



Off to solve my dead computer mouse control thing. Good luck

 

[Chainbreaker]

Great troubleshooting & glad you got it working!

Good luck with the mouse control thingy!

 

[MrShawn305]

Outstanding! Thank you for sharing, this may come in handy on my 805B in the future!

 

[golli]

I have a similar issue (no 24V power to actuator, engine fires with direct 24V power to actuator and starting via dead-switch mode, but engine immediately revs to high rpm so I shut it down right away) and the DC power LED on the ESD5551 NOT lid and LED-5 and LED-14 lid "red" when starting procedure all the way to PRIME-RUN mode but no engine starting via THE normal start procedure.

Should I just try to source a new ESD5551 board right away and replace it or is there a fuse somewhere to check that prevents DC power to the ESD5551 board or is there anything else I should check first?

I am new to this genset and never owned or operated one and just purchased this MEP-805B from a local auction place as "operation not verified" and with zero information about when/if it ran the last time but the unit looks to be in great shape except for some minor rust with just 1600 hrs. The computer fires up and the engine starts in dead-switch mode, so hopefully this ESD5551 board problem is the only issue in the way to get it back to full operation.

Thank you for any advice/suggestions you can provide!

 

[Buzz254]

Mep-805b No power to adc100-24 injection pump actuator. ESD5551 output power failure. Solution



Hello all. This will probably be my only post as I am rarely on the internet. I wanted to stop by and contribute as I have gained a ton of information from this forum over the past week.

I purchased a used non-running MEP805b unit a couple of weeks ago. It was advertised as needing a mechanical fuel pump. No problem. It arrived, we put one in and it didn’t fire. The power supply light on the ESD5551 “Speed Control Unit” would not light up. This told me the unit was not getting power in or out. The Actuator light would not light at all when turning the engine over. This light should flash for about 3 seconds when starting, even if it doesn’t start. I tested voltage to the ADC100-24 injection pump actuator and it was not getting power. I was able to run 24v from one of the lights on the control panel to the injection pump and it started. You can hear it click when powered. DON’T DO THIS for more than 10 seconds as the speed is not governed. This told me the pump system was fine and it was getting fuel. I was able to trace the issue back to the ESD5551 board. Attached is a photo that shows the two components that were replaced with part numbers. About 70 cents. This restored power to the injection pump and the machine is running now. I still have some tuning work to do but it starts and runs. Parts were purchased from the guys at westfloridacomponents. Other cap suppliers will have the same products. WFC helped us cross reference part numbers making this project possible.



Notes: Try replacing one component at a time. They both may not be bad. Replacing these components should be done by a skilled electronics tech with a good hot air station and solder iron. The silicone epoxy does not melt. It will have to be picked / scraped off. The clear epoxy can be replaced with MG Chemicals 422b compound.



If anyone has dead ESD5551 units laying around I would be interested in them. Please PM me.



Off to solve my dead computer mouse control thing. Good luck

How did you find out which parts were the issue?
I was lucky to source TWO NEW ESD5551, installed one and the girl fired right up.
Ran for 5 min. I shut it down.
Now the FIRST new board does not show actuator light when cranking.

 

[peapvp]

How did you find out which parts were the issue?
I was lucky to source TWO NEW ESD5551, installed one and the girl fired right up.
Ran for 5 min. I shut it down.
Now the FIRST new board does not show actuator light when cranking.

did you reboot the cim before attempting a new start?

 

[155mm]

had the exact same problem happen except mine got both caps, blue and black ones, and it got a trace on the back.

 

[Guyfang]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! Glad you saw this post. I was just going to send a like to you.

 

[mciikurzroot]

Emm the ole bad Capacitor/s situation. Normally or at least conventional logic trouble shooting tells us to look each side of this type component and see what might have caused this to fail or created the excess demand on the damaged part.. But that doesn't hold up in this situation, Capacitors most often fail from AGE and exposure. These control boards range from 24 years old to 12 years prox. We never built the electronics to last an indefinite time, it was not a requirement passing First Artical was the goal, the Army didn't plan or expect these sets to go beyond 18-20 years of service, the good news is John Deere and Marathon plan differently and build differently to serve a broader market share where emphasis is placed on longer life service..
These sets are at their extreme operating life from the entire "ELECTRONICS" aspect. Is anyone really using a 20 plus year old computer system, well its the same thing. and the adage of tail light warranty is most fitting as reported by our member, It runs and he is loaning it to another community, he moves the set 100 yards and suddenly no longer works. That or these same situations will plague the reliability of these set .. and if a gen set is not reliable, what good is it ? Is it fun to always WONDER well will it start this time and if so how long will it run.. that's not a desired feature Reliability is the crucial thing you want in a gen set by its very reason you bought it, to have something dependable. Not a crap shoot of guessing if it will work ...Then when you roll in the storage of these sets and the EXTREME weather conditions being all located inside that hot ass control box in the summer and freezing ass cold in the winter.. What can we expect from 20 year old components . Certainly not the same new performance as we built back when we were producing them by the hundreds/thousands over the course of the contract. life/performance.
Make no mistake I love the sets and when were done i have no hesitation telling a customer this set is good for another 20 years
Signed: mac/mc in the Cold Water department

 

[155mm]

Emm the ole bad Capacitor/s situation. Normally or at least conventional logic trouble shooting tells us to look each side of this type component and see what might have caused this to fail or created the excess demand on the damaged part.. But that doesn't hold up in this situation, Capacitors most often fail from AGE and exposure. These control boards range from 24 years old to 12 years prox. We never built the electronics to last an indefinite time, it was not a requirement passing First Artical was the goal, the Army didn't plan or expect these sets to go beyond 18-20 years of service, the good news is John Deere and Marathon plan differently and build differently to serve a broader market share where emphasis is placed on longer life service..
These sets are at their extreme operating life from the entire "ELECTRONICS" aspect. Is anyone really using a 20 plus year old computer system, well its the same thing. and the adage of tail light warranty is most fitting as reported by our member, It runs and he is loaning it to another community, he moves the set 100 yards and suddenly no longer works. That or these same situations will plague the reliability of these set .. and if a gen set is not reliable, what good is it ? Is it fun to always WONDER well will it start this time and if so how long will it run.. that's not a desired feature Reliability is the crucial thing you want in a gen set by its very reason you bought it, to have something dependable. Not a crap shoot of guessing if it will work ...Then when you roll in the storage of these sets and the EXTREME weather conditions being all located inside that hot ass control box in the summer and freezing ass cold in the winter.. What can we expect from 20 year old components . Certainly not the same new performance as we built back when we were producing them by the hundreds/thousands over the course of the contract. life/performance.
Make no mistake I love the sets and when were done i have no hesitation telling a customer this set is good for another 20 years
Signed: mac/mc in the Cold Water department

@mciikurzroot
so, as a shtf scenario, could we not remove the electronic governor, attach a locking cable to the throttle control in IP, start unit, adjust HZ with locking cable, IE mep 005a version of hz control.

everything else appears to work on the jenny except this one assembly which controls the motor speed. I do have a replacement coming, just looking at worst case options

 

[jmenende]

Alright guys, let me tell you all about my latest issue with an 805b (stock) I use at a site. So yesterday I got a call that the set ran for 10 min and shutdown. When I got there I found it was a fuel issue. The actuator light did not shine and the speed sensor was dim. Mag pickup showed 6v, well below the 23-30v i look for.I proceeded to remove the mag pickup, clean and recalibrate. That got the speed sensor to light up but it would not start. Checked the actuator directly and it was clicking and thus working. THIS IS WHERE IT GOT INTERESTING. When I unplugged the waterproof connector, alot of diesel came out. The actuator had lost its seal and diesel was running inside the cable to the connector that was watertite and would
not drain. My theory is that this caused a short circuit and damaged my governor. I replaced the governor and it started right up. For the time being, I removed all the seals from the connector so it can drain while it runs (look at the drop in the connector pictured). I plan to remove the actuator and just get the lid that mechanically fixes the speed as in the olden days and ditch the governor altogether(if anyone can chime ine on the part number that would be great). As a bonus, my avr also crapped out and was pushing out 300v and causing an overvoltage shutdown. I proceded to install an aftermarket avr and the unit is runing fine. Not sure how a bad governor could have damaged the avr, im not saying it did, but its a hell of a coincidence. Thats how I spent my eastern sunday folks.

 

[Guyfang]

As far as I can remember, the inside of the actuator is supposed to be full of fuel. So its an issue of the cable and how its supposed to keep fuel in.