MEP002 Starter lockout switch-how to disconnect?

[Bushwacka]

Have a MEP002 that will not start until I turn the adjustment screw on the starter lockout switch.
Have already replaced the starter, batt, cables and lockout switch.
Referred to p 4-32 of TM5-6115-584-12 to set gap at 040 but
unable to set adjustment screw at 040 with genny running-too much vibration ect.

Is there a way to bypass the switch so I can start the genny and later work through the gap adjustments with the starter lockout switch?

When I try to start, I just get a loud metallic click from the area of the fuel pump as the solinoid moves. This continues until I remove the starter lockout switch cover and try to adjust the points. Then it will start, then restart. However after several days pass, I am back to click only and no start.
Thanks

 

[doghead]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?70561-MEP-003A-Starter-Lockout-Switch

 

[cuad4u]

Disconnect the small cannon plug near the oil filter. Look at the "female" plug which is on your left. There are 3 pins (holes) in the plug but only 2 pins (holes) have wires connected. Stick each end of a U shaped bare wire into each of the two pins (holes) that have wires going to them. Viola - the starter disconnect switch is taken out of the circuit. If the starter disconnect switch is the (only) problem, the engine will start.

 

[jamawieb]

I had a unit that did the same thing after sitting a few days, you need to make sure the cooper strip that touches the adjustment nut is not bent in the center. In the pic below #9 pushes the cooper strip off the adjustment nut, as the motor is running. When that happens it breaks the continuity, making the starter kick off. You can take off the plug, cooper stripe, and adjustment nut by removing 2 screws. The try to flatten the cooper stripe straight again. I did this and now the unit runs perfect. If you bypass it, it won't take long to destroy the starter because you have to hold the starter switch until you build oil pressure and flash the field (if it has sit along time). You should be able to fit a filler gauge in between the adjustment nut and cooper stripe while it is running with no problems to get your .040 measurement.

 

[Bushwacka]

CUAD4U
Thanks for the insight and understanding. I'll try it and not stress the starter. If it starts as you noted, the problem is in my lockout switch.

 

[Bushwacka]

Jamawieb,

I'll inspect the copper strip to ensure it is straight. I replaced the old one as the contact switch base was cracked where the screw held it attached. If the copper strip is straight, and the unit will start with the "U" wire insert into the cannon plug, then I may have a problem with #9 (plunger?)...... When I did have it running, the vibration was too great to get and turn the wrench on the adjustment nut. Will get it started, reconnect cannon plug and try to adjust the gap.
Thanks for understanding and assistance.

 

[Bushwacka]

All,

I completed the tests and still cannot get a start. The plug I jumped with a U shaped wire( after confirming the correct 2 pin terminals). The breaker points were closed. I went back and ckecked the copper cooper strip and it is straight and clean as it is new. So I have a non start situation with breaker points closed and the plug circuit bypassed. All I get is aloud solinoid type click. Batteries, connections clean and cables good, new starter, new cooper contract breaker installed. Read the above link about the spring not creating enough tension, but with the contact points closed, shoud it not start? The history is that the unit would start on about 20 % of the attempts to start.( thus why starter and breaker points replaced) When it does start and then shut off, it will immediately restart w/o problem. But after sitting 2-3 days, no start. WHere do I go from here?

 

[Isaac-1]

Is the solenoid on the intection pump actuating when you try to start and is the lever moving to the full open position?

 

[jamawieb]

Ok, there is also a relay inside the control cubicle, I think K1 that deliveries 24volts to the starter relay. You'll have to look in the TM to confirm this but you may have a bad connection. It may just needs to be cleaned.

 

[rustystud]

Is the solenoid on the intection pump actuating when you try to start and is the lever moving to the full open position?

Yes ! I had that happen to me also. The solenoid was stuck closed. After moving the lever by hand I was able to start up my generator. I gently rapped the side of the solenoid with a hammer and it finally released.

 

[Speddmon]

Is the solenoid on the intection pump actuating when you try to start and is the lever moving to the full open position?

Yes ! I had that happen to me also. The solenoid was stuck closed. After moving the lever by hand I was able to start up my generator. I gently rapped the side of the solenoid with a hammer and it finally released.

I think he is leaning toward the lockout switch because he is getting a non cranking condition.

People need to be more clear about the issues they are having if we are to effectively help them. Non start and non cranking are two very different problems with two very different troubleshooting procedures.

 

[Bushwacka]

Yes ! I had that happen to me also. The solenoid was stuck closed. After moving the lever by hand I was able to start up my generator. I gently rapped the side of the solenoid with a hammer and it finally released.

The solinoid is opening and closing. It make a loud "clunk" when the start switch is turned. However, I cannot yet say if it is opening fully. Will check that. Same time I will check out the TM on location of "K1 ( 24v to starter).

Upon trying to restart yesterday (again after cking the contact points) it started on the 2nd try....?????? So while it was running I adjusted the contact point to .040 with no problem. Shut down and did not try restart. Runs flawlessly after start.

Will check as noted above today or tomorrow and see if I get a start.

Thank you guys so much for your patience and genny wisdom.
Best

 

[Bushwacka]

Guys,

I checked the fuel solinoid plunger, and it appears to fully opening. This appears to be where the loud "thunk" orginates when I turn the master switch to start.

Looked at the TM for the control panel connections feeding 24v to the starter, but could not locate the source wire . All control panel connections are clean and tight. The unit sat for 1 week, tried to start, it "thunked" one time, then started on second attempt!!!!!!!!

Once running this time, I was able to set the starter lock out switch at .040. After running for 10 minutes, it would restart. Now another week later, it is back to "thunk."
Retested batteries and cables clean and tight. Now all I know to do is to start testing the continuity in the master switch outputs to the terminals and maybe the starter and ground cables.
Anything else that causes the sporatic starting? Have already bypassed the starter cut out switch to no avail.
Thanks for your help and patience

 

[Isaac-1]

Check the ground strap connections on the control box

 

[Bushwacka]

Check the ground strap connections on the control box

I cleaned and tightened the grounding cable that leads to the genny frame then to the M116 trailer. Unsure if this one is attached to the control box on the other end. Will look tonight. Thanks