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mep002a injector pump?

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
Yes its regular thread since i just pulled mine this evening as well to do the ip timing test. Mine was tight but not too bad.it should be about 70ft lbs
 

robkiller

Member
206
1
18
Location
Colorado Springs CO
Yes its regular thread since i just pulled mine this evening as well to do the ip timing test. Mine was tight but not too bad.it should be about 70ft lbs
So as I am taking mine apart I see something I dont think is correct and could be the problem. In the pics below you should see what I am talking about the shaft is on the wall and does not look like its free to move up and down. Any thoughts. If not i will hit the problem sometime.

20130216_192620.jpg20130216_192628.jpg20130216_192606.jpg
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
Someone else will have to give you some input. I havent had my ip apart other than the valve holder out. I wouldnt know what is right or not
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
That block with the slot in it should move up and down on the shaft freely. A Bic pen cap could be used if you like, probably even a tooth pick. PM headed your way.
 

robkiller

Member
206
1
18
Location
Colorado Springs CO
That block with the slot in it should move up and down on the shaft freely. A Bic pen cap could be used if you like, probably even a tooth pick. PM headed your way.
Ok so it moves ok it may have been stuck but not enough it wouldn't move.

So anyone have directions on how to get the part off without a pressing tool?
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
How to get the block out? The plunger has to be removed for that. What I have done in the past is push down on the bottom, while someone with a small pick, prys out the two retaining "C" clip thingys. (good technical term right there!) The plunger should move freely after that. On a side note, watch how that block comes out. It has one side marked with a dot. I think that "dot" faces down, but I'm not 100% sure.
 
Last edited:

treeguy

New member
605
3
0
Location
Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
Hi Rob,
I ground down the mating edges (where its broken) to form an angle (V notch) to accept weld material. Don't mess with the broken faces and grind too deep because the faces will probably fit back together like broken cookie pieces will inter lock. I used a mig welder on a low to medium setting, I'm sure a tig weld would be superior. After I was done welding I ground down the extra weld bead to make the part flat again. I proceded to weld with the parts clamped down to a flat plate to keep everything lined up.
I thing the part may be available but I'm not sure, try calling Delk's at 336-629-0991, they may be able to steer you in the right direction.
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
man kinda funny there are two of us going through the same thing with the same broken piece. i had a few more broken pieces in mine though. i got the pieces all changed out and runs beautiful.
 

treeguy

New member
605
3
0
Location
Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
Those pieces were designed to break, sort of like a safety fuse so the more intricate parts don't become damaged. Rob, you may want to check if that quill shaft sticking out in your picture can spin freely and pump in and out. You can lube it and all the pump parts with diesel fuel. You may want to see if you can get some compressed air thru the ports.
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
rob i also had the square block with the dot on it break and on the speed control shaft i had the little tab that rides in the groove on the block break.

IMG_1064.jpg

i would pull the plunger shaft out. nothing holding it in at this point. just pull it out and the block will fall out. as treeguy said, once its out blow air through all the ports and make sure everything is clear. when you put that block back in there is a dot on it that will face the engine end of the pump. dont put it in upside down.
 
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