mep002a injector pump?

[robkiller]

rob i also had the square block with the dot on it break and on the speed control shaft i had the little tab that rides in the groove on the block break.

View attachment 411952

i would pull the plunger shaft out. nothing holding it in at this point. just pull it out and the block will fall out. as treeguy said, once its out blow air through all the ports and make sure everything is clear. when you put that block back in there is a dot on it that will face the engine end of the pump. dont put it in upside down.

That seems to be fine for me at this time.

 

[robkiller]

How easy should that shaft be to get out. I am not able to get the shaft to move or turn? I am not wanting to force it to hard how hard should it be?

 

[treeguy]

That shaft has a very high machining tolerance to the hole it slides into. If you can't move yours then you need to definitly take it out and clean inside the unit further. The shaft should have a perfect gliding feeling with a light coating of diesel, just smooth as silk. To remove the pump further you will need to remove the four bolts on the face then figure out a way to press out the cylindrical center from the squarish outer housing. The center has an "O" ring in grooves at either end and the outer housing has a smooth round bore. During re-install you need to be careful not to shear the "O" rings as the center unit slides into the outer casing. I forget exactly what it looks like inside there (the inner round part) but it sounds like you have gunk in there. You may want to find a pail to put the whole thing in and fill it up with your prefered lube (wd40, PB.....) and let it soak over night. What happens to these is, when they sit for extended periods the diesel creates a shelack (pardon the spelling) coating on the finely machined surfaces and glues the internal pieces together, then when you crank the engine the drive washer breaks so not to destroy the other parts like that quill shaft. Clean, clean, clean that is the mission and will fix your not running problem. The tough part is gettig the center cylindrical body out of the outer housing, it is TIGHT and has to be!

 

[robkiller]

That shaft has a very high machining tolerance to the hole it slides into. If you can't move yours then you need to definitly take it out and clean inside the unit further. The shaft should have a perfect gliding feeling with a light coating of diesel, just smooth as silk. To remove the pump further you will need to remove the four bolts on the face then figure out a way to press out the cylindrical center from the squarish outer housing. The center has an "O" ring in grooves at either end and the outer housing has a smooth round bore. During re-install you need to be careful not to shear the "O" rings as the center unit slides into the outer casing. I forget exactly what it looks like inside there (the inner round part) but it sounds like you have gunk in there. You may want to find a pail to put the whole thing in and fill it up with your prefered lube (wd40, PB.....) and let it soak over night. What happens to these is, when they sit for extended periods the diesel creates a shelack (pardon the spelling) coating on the finely machined surfaces and glues the internal pieces together, then when you crank the engine the drive washer breaks so not to destroy the other parts like that quill shaft. Clean, clean, clean that is the mission and will fix your not running problem. The tough part is gettig the center cylindrical body out of the outer housing, it is TIGHT and has to be!

So If you look at the picture below What screws are you talking about? I dont see how to take it apart any more or how to get this shaft out.

 

[robkiller]

That shaft has a very high machining tolerance to the hole it slides into. If you can't move yours then you need to definitly take it out and clean inside the unit further. The shaft should have a perfect gliding feeling with a light coating of diesel, just smooth as silk. To remove the pump further you will need to remove the four bolts on the face then figure out a way to press out the cylindrical center from the squarish outer housing. The center has an "O" ring in grooves at either end and the outer housing has a smooth round bore. During re-install you need to be careful not to shear the "O" rings as the center unit slides into the outer casing. I forget exactly what it looks like inside there (the inner round part) but it sounds like you have gunk in there. You may want to find a pail to put the whole thing in and fill it up with your prefered lube (wd40, PB.....) and let it soak over night. What happens to these is, when they sit for extended periods the diesel creates a shelack (pardon the spelling) coating on the finely machined surfaces and glues the internal pieces together, then when you crank the engine the drive washer breaks so not to destroy the other parts like that quill shaft. Clean, clean, clean that is the mission and will fix your not running problem. The tough part is gettig the center cylindrical body out of the outer housing, it is TIGHT and has to be!

I can clean out the ports by shooting wd40 in them but i would like to get the inside clean because i am not able to turn that shaft at all with my hands or tool at this time.

 

[Jimc]

oh yeah rob thats not right. that shaft should be smooth as tree guy said. thats why your parts broke. that is the plunger. the engine spins that thing and pushes it in and out. it should be like butter. if you have the delivery valve completely out you should be able to push on the plunger/shaft through the delivery valve hole. a small brass drift, not a steel punch and a real lightweight hammer might work through the delivery valve hole. just little gentle taps so you dont damage anything.

 

[Jimc]

if it helps here is a closeup of the plunger/shaft when its out. there is nothing there holding anything in. no keyways, pins or anything like that.

 

[robkiller]

oh yeah rob thats not right. that shaft should be smooth as tree guy said. thats why your parts broke. that is the plunger. the engine spins that thing and pushes it in and out. it should be like butter. if you have the delivery valve completely out you should be able to push on the plunger/shaft through the delivery valve hole. a small brass drift, not a steel punch and a real lightweight hammer might work through the delivery valve hole. just little gentle taps so you dont damage anything.

So do i need to stick something in the small hole that is opposite of the shaft to try and pop the shaft out?
See pic

Or does everything inside that hole come out as part of the shaft?

I also added a pic of the shaft side.

 

[robkiller]

if it helps here is a closeup of the plunger/shaft when its out. there is nothing there holding anything in. no keyways, pins or anything like that.

View attachment 412067

perfect that helps a ton so everything in the hole opposite of the shaft some out with the shaft. cool thanks

 

[robkiller]

So it looks like i need to get the disk that is around the shaft off. I assume that is just fitted on and needs to be carefully worked off?
See pic


Or does the shaft come out the other side? (the side opposite of the side the shaft sicks out?)

 

[Jimc]

no rob there is no disc thats all the pump body and doesnt come apart. when you look in the center hole on the end with the fuel line fittings, if the delivery valve and seat are all out i think you should be able to see the end on the shaft. try a brass or plastic drift/punch on that end and tap it out.

 

[Jimc]

hey another thing. not sure if you realized it or not but atleast in the 003 manual there isnt a pic of your model pump. there are two types of pumps and the only breakdown pic of the pump you and i have is in the parts manual. the 002 manuals it may have been added. not sure.

 

[robkiller]

hey another thing. not sure if you realized it or not but atleast in the 003 manual there isnt a pic of your model pump. there are two types of pumps and the only breakdown pic of the pump you and i have is in the parts manual. the 002 manuals it may have been added. not sure.

I got it, it was stuck and i have cleaned it out. now it is nice and smooth. Thanks for all the help.

New part should be on the way and then i have to put it together lol.

I think the timing will be the hard part.

thanks again everyone!

 

[Jimc]

Where did you end up ordering the parts? The timing is cake. Use method 2, flow timing.

 

[robkiller]

Where did you end up ordering the parts? The timing is cake. Use method 2, flow timing.

One of the guys on the forum send me a pm and had one. I will pm you his name.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Sorry I'm late to the party, I had an actual paying job. Looks like you got most of your questions answered. Jim, I'm sending him the drive washer.

 

[treeguy]

Rob, I'm really sorry. I guess I didn't look closely enough at your picture to see that you had already taken out the inner cylinder. Like Jim said, you can tap out the shaft. I'd go from the delievery side out tward the engine side. The small puck in the middle has to float on the shaft. That is how the throttle is controlled. The shaft that you were fighting with compresses the fuel and it gets sent to the appropriate injector thru small holes. That pump can be used on other engines besides the 002 that is why on the 002's there are two ports capped off. The TM that I have shows completely different inards than what we have. I'm not sure why, but what we have is way simpler than the TM drawings.

 

[Jimc]

Man robb your the ip parts man!! Lol

 

[gimpyrobb]

Well, I got like 60 of them in an auction. Most are just crap, but the parts are still good. I did manage to get like 6 new ones, so I have some spares for my 2 "003s".

 

[LuckyDog]

Hope this information isn't too late:

First: Here is the Wiki link with lots of information: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?62648-MEP-002A-and-003A

Second: For information on the IP better than TM gives:

Selecting Correct Injection Pump Timing Button and Injection Pump Installation
Service Parts contains better images than the TM. (I think)
Service Instructions for the Model 50

Hope that helps.