MEP005 Questions

[Sephirothq]

I recently got a 1977 mep005 generator on a trailer. I am in the process of trying to get it running. I have a copy of the TM's that i have reviewed but i am still having some questions.

When i got it all the fluids and the filters were drained / removed.

I put 2 gal of 15/40 W oil in the crankcase, 26 gal of diesel fuel in the tank and about filled the radiator with antifreeze.

On the inside panel it states 1 gal of hydraulic oil?? What are they talking about and where does it go?

I got the filters for it based off of other numbers i found here. IT seems my primary filter is just a metal screen and there is no way i can put the fuel filter that i got in there. Did some have a different primary fuel filter?

2 batteries later and it will crank and run on starting fluid with the battle short off. With it on I get nothing.

The fuel gauge does not work and i didn't have it running long enough to see if i makes power.

What i did find is the return line from the injectors to the injector pump is missing, gone, not there etc

And the fuel pumps don't work. I removed them, cleaned them and get nothing when power is applied to them . I ground the body and run a + to the wire. So i think they may be bad.

Why are there 2 in series? Is that necessary or just a backup?


From the other materials I have read it seems most likely that i will need to have the injection pump rebuilt and the injectors as well. Hopefully not. Any ideas on a source of the return line that i am missing or should i just get a piece of hose and clamp it on really good?

 

[Ken_86gt]

I believe that the hydraulic oil only applies to the precise unit and not the utility version.

It sounds like you have a lot of troubleshooting yet to do.

Don't worry about the fuel gauge until it is running- just make sure that there is fuel in the tank for now.

I don't know why they are in series, but if you applied power directly and they didn't run......

I believe that the return line goes to the day tank and not directly to the injection pump- have to have this.

Why would you decide to rebuild the injector pump and injectors when I see so many other issues that have to be fixed? With no fuel pumps working and running it on ether you are probably running the injection pump dry, do this too long and you may damage it.

Fuel system summary recently posted by PeterD here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/auxiliary-equipment/50444-mep-005-fuel-injection-pump.html

"The circuit is: main fuel tank, Fuel pumps (series), strainer, filter, solenoid, day tank. Day tank is non-pressurized. From the day tank to the final filter (gravity feed) to the injection pump. From the Injection pump via the fuel return line (and from injectors) back to the day tank.

Straight gravity feed, no pressure into the injection pump.

When the day tank (which holds about a gallon) is full, a float switch shuts off the fuel solenoid. Should there be a malfunction, there is a secondary drain high in the day tank should it overfill, and that drain leads directly back to the main fuel tank.

I've omitted the auxiliary fuel input and selector valve from this description. "

 

[leedawg]

I recently got a 1977 mep005 generator on a trailer. I am in the process of trying to get it running. I have a copy of the TM's that i have reviewed but i am still having some questions.

When i got it all the fluids and the filters were drained / removed.

I put 2 gal of 15/40 W oil in the crankcase, 26 gal of diesel fuel in the tank and about filled the radiator with antifreeze.

On the inside panel it states 1 gal of hydraulic oil?? What are they talking about and where does it go?

I got the filters for it based off of other numbers i found here. IT seems my primary filter is just a metal screen and there is no way i can put the fuel filter that i got in there. Did some have a different primary fuel filter?

2 batteries later and it will crank and run on starting fluid with the battle short off. With it on I get nothing.

The fuel gauge does not work and i didn't have it running long enough to see if i makes power.

What i did find is the return line from the injectors to the injector pump is missing, gone, not there etc

And the fuel pumps don't work. I removed them, cleaned them and get nothing when power is applied to them . I ground the body and run a + to the wire. So i think they may be bad.

Why are there 2 in series? Is that necessary or just a backup?


From the other materials I have read it seems most likely that i will need to have the injection pump rebuilt and the injectors as well. Hopefully not. Any ideas on a source of the return line that i am missing or should i just get a piece of hose and clamp it on really good?

Well i would not rebuild your injector pump until you get fuel to it and verify it wont pump fuel. From what it sounds right now you dont even have fuel flow period from the main tank. So of course its not going to run.


My fuel pumps did not work either I removed them and hooked them directly to 24 power source (the wire goes to the + and put the frame to negative) it should start clicking rapidly. I took a hammer and tapped around on the casing of the pump and applied power over and over and finally they freed up and started pumping. Had to do this to both of them and they both started working after this. Re installed them. Got fuel to pump through the strainer and the first fuel filter to the day tank. Next verify your solenoid is opening and closing on the day tank. Then fuel will gravity feed from the day tank to the second fuel filter and onto the injector pump. I would remove the line from the injection pump and allow it to drain so that clean fuel comes through this line from the day tank. AFter you do that hook it up and crank it over and see if the pump pumps any fuel. If it does not read the thread posted above my post, we talk alot about what you can try to do to the injector pump to get it working. If all that does not fix it then maybe you will have to send it in to get it rebuilt.

Go to your auto parts store and get some hard brake line and a tube bender. You can make that your fuel return line and get the appropriate fittings.

Good luck

 

[Sephirothq]

Good call on the brake line. I will have to try just tapping the pumps while 24 volts is applied.

It is also good to know there is no hydraulic system that I am missing.

 

[Rickety Bones]

On my mep005, I had to remove the bottom of the electric fuel pumps and clean and lube them to get them to work, the 2 pumps are located on the same plate as the fuel tank cap.

I also had to use my finger to loosen up the check valve on the 2 pumps, used some penetrating oil also, when they are running they should sound kinda like a loud clicking clock tap tap tap, you should also be able to hear both of them " ticking " when you have them on.

to fill the day tank faster I removed the upper return line from the top of the day tank, this let the pumps run much faster.

also when the day tank is in the filling process, the pumps will run very fast, but when the float senses that the tank is full it will shut off the solenoid and the pumps will then kinda sound like 2 clocks ticking out of sink with each other.

hope this helps

Rick

 

[Sephirothq]

Well,
I think I am going to have to get the IP rebuilt or replaced. I have the return lines connected. I have the fuel pumps working. I have the filters replaced. I have good clean fuel to the IP, the feed line runs strong with fuel.


I removed the top cover of the IP where the solenoid is, and it is full of fuel as well. I think it is coming from the return line from the tank (not the injectors those are dry.

I removed the 6 lines to the injectors and the only thing I can get out is a few drops.
I have pulled full throttle, the IP is getting 25 volts to the solenoid and I can hear it clicking when i feed constant power to it.

The engine will run on starting fluid but there is no fuel from the IP even when the engine is running fast on ether.

Any other ideas or suggestions?

 

[leedawg]

Its entirely possible I had one that started working after I got this shut off lever to open up but the other one even after the fuel cutoff lever was working still would not run so I dont know. Any way did you read this thread. On this page I posted a picture of the internal lever that needs to be free to move back and forth. Is yours moving freely back and forth? Or is it seized in the closed position because if it is in the closed position the pump is not going to put out any fuel.

005a injection pump thread

 

[Sephirothq]

I did see that today and I am going to work with that a bit. What is the best way to drain the fuel from the pump? I had the top off and it was full with fuel. It is hard to see anything in there.

 

[Rickety Bones]

Well,
I think I am going to have to get the IP rebuilt or replaced. I have the return lines connected. I have the fuel pumps working. I have the filters replaced. I have good clean fuel to the IP, the feed line runs strong with fuel.


I removed the top cover of the IP where the solenoid is, and it is full of fuel as well. I think it is coming from the return line from the tank (not the injectors those are dry.

I removed the 6 lines to the injectors and the only thing I can get out is a few drops.
I have pulled full throttle, the IP is getting 25 volts to the solenoid and I can hear it clicking when i feed constant power to it.

The engine will run on starting fluid but there is no fuel from the IP even when the engine is running fast on ether.

Any other ideas or suggestions?

I had the exact same problem with mine,

this is the guy that's repairing my pump now, I should get it back in a couple of days

here is the ebay link I found for his name and number

Roosa Master / Stanadyne DB Diesel Injection Pump | eBay

rick

 

[Sephirothq]

Let me know how it turns out for you. If it runs well etc.

I am going to try moving the slider bar, I think it moves now, but I am going to be 100% certain.

 

[leedawg]

I did see that today and I am going to work with that a bit. What is the best way to drain the fuel from the pump? I had the top off and it was full with fuel. It is hard to see anything in there.

Do you see the inspection window on the side of the pump. There are two flat head screws holding it onto the side of the pump. Simply remove those screws pull it off and all the fuel will drain out through this rectangle.


Dont lose the gasket or the screws.

Lee

 

[leedawg]

I had the exact same problem with mine,

this is the guy that's repairing my pump now, I should get it back in a couple of days

here is the ebay link I found for his name and number

Roosa Master / Stanadyne DB Diesel Injection Pump | eBay

rick

Rick Mine got their last thursday. I called them yesterday and today no answer just left messages on their answering machine. I have not heard anything from them yet? Have you actually talked to Jeff over there or are you just assuming it will be back pretty soon? Let me know.

Lee

 

[Rickety Bones]

I actually spoke with fred, he said he should have it done by wed or thrusday of this week

and I will keep everyone up to date

 

[Sephirothq]

Last night I drained the pump down, all the linkages inside the pump are moving correctly but it looks very dirty inside the pump body. I ran a can of cleaner through it and removed the bottom plug that has a 1-1/8" head on it. Not entire sure what that plug is but a fair amount of dirt came out.

Still no fuel out of the injection lines. So it is not pumping.

I am wondering if it is just very dirty inside and if I had enough cleaner would it work?
I am also wondering about the condition of the injectors. They might be bad as well.

I wish i had a way to test the generator side before I went too nuts with the engine side.

 

[weisskr]

Last night I drained the pump down, all the linkages inside the pump are moving correctly but it looks very dirty inside the pump body. I ran a can of cleaner through it and removed the bottom plug that has a 1-1/8" head on it. Not entire sure what that plug is but a fair amount of dirt came out.

Still no fuel out of the injection lines. So it is not pumping.

I am wondering if it is just very dirty inside and if I had enough cleaner would it work?
I am also wondering about the condition of the injectors. They might be bad as well.

I wish i had a way to test the generator side before I went too nuts with the engine side.

To test the generator head you will need a megger but chances are its ok. I have had six of these machines and not once did I have generator head probs. You will have more problems with the controls circuit and fuel with these machines.
Continue with cleaning that IP with some WD or brake cleaner and the screen feeding the pump and you may clear it up. At this point you have nothing to lose but your time but that will be a valuable lesson.
Lots of threads here and on Smoke stack for all the other problems.

Kevin

 

[leedawg]

Last night I drained the pump down, all the linkages inside the pump are moving correctly but it looks very dirty inside the pump body. I ran a can of cleaner through it and removed the bottom plug that has a 1-1/8" head on it. Not entire sure what that plug is but a fair amount of dirt came out.

Still no fuel out of the injection lines. So it is not pumping.

I am wondering if it is just very dirty inside and if I had enough cleaner would it work?
I am also wondering about the condition of the injectors. They might be bad as well.

I wish i had a way to test the generator side before I went too nuts with the engine side.

Badger Diesel told me that the pump that I sent in had separated governor ring or something like that that was causing the problem in my pump. Most likely you will have to end up rebuilding the pump but hopefully it will start pumping if you play with it long enough. I tore mine down to the point that I had gotten rear pump rotor out and needed to separate the barrel but I gave up on it due to the fact that I had to drive out a roll pin on the droop control to get access to the circlip holding that shut off valve linkage in. That has to be removed to allow the barrel of the pump to slide out of the housing. Any way Good luck post up pics they are always appreciated.

 

[Isaac-1]

The rubber governor weight cage is a common problem in older Stanadyne / RoosaMaster injection pumps, They came out with and improved material in the late 1980's so anytime you run across one of their pumps that is older than this, or not rebuilt since then it should be highly suspect.

Ike

 

[Sephirothq]

I am going to work on Pump removal. I have the TM. I just need to find out what exactly needs to be lined up to be able to remove and then reinstall the pump.

I will try taking it apart and cleaning it, but I have a feeling it will have to be shipped off for repair.
I don't think i can really damage it if i take it apart. or at least not beyond what can be repaired.

 

[Rickety Bones]

I am going to work on Pump removal. I have the TM. I just need to find out what exactly needs to be lined up to be able to remove and then reinstall the pump.

I will try taking it apart and cleaning it, but I have a feeling it will have to be shipped off for repair.
I don't think i can really damage it if i take it apart. or at least not beyond what can be repaired.

this is what i did, I removed the fuel line to the IP, thin I removed the inspection plate on the IP. I then rotated the motor by hand ( with a wrench ) on the front pully nut, in counterclockwise rotation intill the 2 lines inside the IP inspection plate area lined up, then I made sure the 20 deg mark was also lined up on the fly wheel inspection hole on the opsite side of motor. if you cant see the 20 deg mark keep rotating the motor until you can, when you get it to this mark the IP lines should also line up

this step is helpful when reinstalling the pump

Rick

 

[Sephirothq]

Thanks
I will work on that tonight