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Missing FDC and other things

K5Cruz

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Warthog, it was a pleasure to meet you and your family, I can't say thank you enough for the help.

Got home with the fdc, installed it. Was missing the return line for the fdc, so I bypassed the fdc per instructions on here. Injectors don't seem to be getting fuel. Truck will start with short spray of ether, but I'm not too big on using it.

In tank pump is missing plug. Fuse seems good, pump isn't obstructed. Plug to pump is missing. Found wiring diagram to pump, but no pictures of plug. Would it be possible to run jumper wire to pump to aid in priming system? Where is it grounded, off the prong I assume?

Pulled the center bolt out of the hydraulic head per a post on here to make sure plunger was free, verified with piece of vacuum hose that it was indeed free. Pumped quite a bit of fuel out of hole. Plug was extremely tight, sheared 3/8 extension trying to remove, had to step up to 1/2 breaker bar.

Been at it all night, fresh fuel in the tank, fresh fuel in the filter housings. The only thing I can think is the system won't prime without the in tank pump. Any ideas? Sent from my phone, sorry for any spelling/grammar errors.

Thanks.
 

Warthog

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You can use some jumper wires for the fuel pump electrical plug. Maybe some female bullet electrical connectors.

elec bullet.jpg

Pull the side cover off the Fuel Shutoff housing and make sure the Fuel Control Rod is moving very freely. Alot of times the level is gummed up and won't allow the fuel to flow.

Fuel%20Rod.jpg


Watch out for a full throttle at startup. Read this thread and it covers the full throttle and how to check the stuck fuel shut off.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/72242-engine-goes-full-throttle-startup.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/93842-bought-deuce-but-engine-will-not-start.html
 
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K5Cruz

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I will pull the cover and give it a try as soon as my batteries recover. After having the top off of the in tank pump I assume the pump only has a power and a frame ground, correct? I had another set of hands and some plastic on hand to suffocate the truck in case of wide open throttle at start or runaway. Assuming the shutoff wouldn't kill it in that situation. Back to the shop I go. Thanks again!
 

Warthog

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Too kill the engine , remove the air horn mushroom and have a 2x6 handy. Cover the opening and suffocate the intake air. Does always runaway but with an unknown engine it is a great safety precaution .
 

K5Cruz

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Removed cover. Rod was sticky. Free'd it up and reassembled. No start. Put power to fuel pump. In one orientation nothing. Switched around I made some smoke with the jumper wire. What is the proper way to wire the pump? I believe I've located wire 654(or whatever the fuel pump power wire is) but the diagram isn't very clear. I see 3 prongs, the upper seems to be dead.

Pulled the rod cover again. Won't move. Pulled the fdc. Rod moves freely. Before I assemble the fdc again I must know, should the throttle linkage have much effect on the spring, rod, or plunger in the pump under the fdc? Mine seems to just barely move things around in there. Forgive my stupidity, it's been a long night.
 

K5Cruz

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Started the truck with cover removed. Fired up and half way ran. Throttle response was non existent and it didn't want to stay running. Fired on starting fluid the first time, on its own the next. Injector lines were leaky from bleeding. May have air in the lines, waiting batteries to charge before retrying.

Backed it up about 20 yards, felt great to drive it. Too bad the brakes need bled, I wanted to go around the block.
 

K5Cruz

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Its a steep learning curve, but I used to work on b-52's and B-1's, so I'm used to beating on old military equipment with hammers.

I need to find the procedure for adjusting the stop, or just play with it. It will not run with the stop housing on the pump. It runs great now, fires right up, idles smooth and revs freely. I cant thank you folks enough for the advise and guidance.

Two of the forward facing bolts on the pump were missing. I've got two there but they are a little big. So theres a small oil leak.

The hydraulic head is leaking. I think its from the center bolt. I thought it was from the #3 line, but its seeping out of the head. Picture attached. Is there an o ring seal under the center bolt? I coudnt find the parts breakdown in the TO's I saw earlier. I didnt pull one off. Also, the balancer seems a little wobbly. Are they failure prone? Broken dampener and broken balancer dont return much in the search results.

I'm off to try to find some DOT5 and take a stab at the brakes, the old fashioned way.
 

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gimpyrobb

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No seal under the center bolt, it is a lapped fit. I have some parts IPs if you need a couple bolts or something. I don't think I have any good HH left.
 

K5Cruz

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No seal under the center bolt, it is a lapped fit. I have some parts IPs if you need a couple bolts or something. I don't think I have any good HH left.
Ill reseat it and check for an obstruction or damage to the mating surface. It's no lie when I say I had to put a wrench on my 24" break over and put some muscle on it to remove that center bolt. Ill get back with you on the bolt, thanks!

The b-52 was much easier to fix with hammers. The injection pump on the truck didn't require one hammer. I'm out of my element.
 

K5Cruz

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Just a final update on this. The truck is running and driving, the #6 injector line was leaking, I guess it had some trash it it. Proper torque fixed the HH center bolt leak. Truck seems leak free now, brakes bled easily, and the winch is operational again. This one isn't getting parted. Now I need to get the rest of the small parts I need to get it street legal and out on the road. Thanks for all of the help!
 

Warthog

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Great news. :beer:

Let me know what parts you need and I'll see if I can help out.
 

K5Cruz

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Earlsboro, Oklahoma
Great news. :beer:

Let me know what parts you need and I'll see if I can help out.
I still need to find mirrors, headlights and rings, tail lights, driveshaft from case to mid axle, bed, and some paint. Mainly.

Lights and mirrors being the most important, I've got some mudflaps I can use until I've got the money for a bed. I also need a tire/wheel. If I can't find a shaft there's a good shop in town that could retube it, but the used ones on surplus sites are about the same price. I'm sure shipping would kill the deal though. My tank also has some forklift damage, but it seems serviceable.

Edit: I also need to get a good look at the parking brake assembly. I think I have all of the parts minus the cable, but I'm having trouble picturing what the bracket on the transfer case does.

That's just off the top of my head. I hate when cheap turns into expensive.
 
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