Missing rear window crank

[HelluvaEngineer]

I finally got my truck running and now I'm trying to fix the "small" stuff. I want to replace the missing rear window crank so that I can actually get in and out using the tailgate. Looking at the parts still remaining and then looking at the cranks for sale for the K5 on Ebay and such, I can't figure out how the parts mate up. I also checked out the diagram in TM9-2320-289-20P and I don't see that big "wing" looking thing on mine. Will a standard K5 crank mate up to this? Thanks.

 

[EO2NMCB]

A civ manual hand crank fits it just fine, mine was MIA and I bought one from LMC.

 

[cucvrus]

That big wing looking thing is part of the window regulator not part of the window crank. The clutch assembly engages the wing looking thing and winds the window up or down. You will need to remove the rear cover panel on the inside of the gate and get the window seals out so that you can remove the back window. The window will need to be removed to access the 4 bolts that hold the window regulator in. That regulator must be removed to access the nuts on the studs that hold the handle in place. Very easy if you are patient. You will want to clean and replace guide runs in the sides of the gate and polish the ends of the sash on the bottom of the glass. Check out Terminus M1009 I have that covered pretty well on how to resurrect an old rusty inoperable M1009 gate. Good Luck. Parts are expensive for the handle. I seen OEM black ones on occasion. Try and avoid the Chinese junk on LMC. The spinner is so thin where the lock pawl engages in the driver I don't know how it even lasts thru 10 cycles. Good Luck.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

Interesting, thanks gentlemen. I'm staring at my mill and my lathe and wondering if there's a better way to do this with a locking mechanism. Cucvrus, not related to this but I got one of those $20 fuel filter bases with manual pump from China. I didn't use it. I got an FM100 and put a pump on that, but the cheapo unit is not bad at all.

 

[richingalveston]

If your back seals are good and do not need replacing, you can do it without completely removing the window. All you need is a good rest for the glass. with the tailgate down, once you have the glass loose from the rollers on the bottom, you just pull it almost all the way out and set it on the rest ( I have a short table with a large foam pad). You have to work it from the inside of the truck because you wont be able to reach over the glass to work and you will need a helper (one under the tailgate and one in back of truck holding the nuts)

I have yet to get the back seals out and not damage them.

If you need new seals then this is the time to change them.

Rich

someone here can probably shed some light on how to get the seals out where they are reusable.

 

[cucvrus]

As a rule if you can't get them out without destroying them they were junk anyway. You need a blunt molding tool to get them out and a bit of patience. They are in there on a push lock clip. It can be compressed and removed with care. Remove the 2 outer seal cover at the top of the gate and go at it. I said to remove the window so you can do the job right. Part of the issue as I stated is the rusty/rough guides on the end of the bottom glass sash. That rust makes resistance in the side window tracks and is a lot of the reason the window cranks and regulators go out to begin with. Cleaning and replacing these parts makes everything work perfect. Or just put in the crank and maintain nothing and have at it. Good Luck. Do the job right the first time and you may never need to do it again.

 

[Mainsail]

I turned that wing with a screwdriver to roll the window up and down for a few months after I got mine. I picked up a new handle on LMC and painted it black. Some of the black has chipped off so I need to touch it up.

 

[The FLU farm]

Will a standard K5 crank mate up to this?

Has anyone ever taken the time to figure out how many parts are unique to an M1009 versus a K5? Could it be 2%?