modified LMTV is coming along well

wandering neurons

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Fallon, NV
OK, I'm seriously jealous of what you're doing. While I don't need the cage and such, I'd love to be able to move across the Nevada desert trails at more than a crawl. Please keep this thread up to date with your mods especially with suspension.
And I love Tucson, lived there ten years - 1995-2005. At one point, I had my lifted Bronco dragging a station wagon back ONTO Reddington Pass, and another time playing with a Deuce in the area. But it's changed since then...
 

olly hondro

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tucson AZ
OK, I'm seriously jealous of what you're doing. While I don't need the cage and such, I'd love to be able to move across the Nevada desert trails at more than a crawl. Please keep this thread up to date with your mods especially with suspension.
And I love Tucson, lived there ten years - 1995-2005. At one point, I had my lifted Bronco dragging a station wagon back ONTO Reddington Pass, and another time playing with a Deuce in the area. But it's changed since then...
Yes, will do. Suspension is top of the do-list. So far, I deleted the lower leaf from the rear spring pack as the static load on the rear axle is only 4560 lbs (stock was 6240). That was just to set the ride height. Next step is to remove the front shocks then test to baseline the suspension response then work it from there. It is going to porpoise and go bouncy, I get that, but its just a measurement.
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
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North of Cincy OH
Yes, will do. Suspension is top of the do-list. So far, I deleted the lower leaf from the rear spring pack as the static load on the rear axle is only 4560 lbs (stock was 6240). That was just to set the ride height. Next step is to remove the front shocks then test to baseline the suspension response then work it from there. It is going to porpoise and go bouncy, I get that, but its just a measurement.
shock... lol..... unless you upgraded shocks already....... there is little to nothing in the OEM shocks when it comes to "shocking". They are mega soft. Granted they also have a limit strap effect to them
 

wandering neurons

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Fallon, NV
Right - without the extra rear leaf, softer rear suspension especially without a normal load. And removing the shocks allows defining suspension travel limits. That can be done without driving - somewhere I've got an old book on setting up suspensions for race cars. Race trucks are the same, just a lot larger. If I remember correctly, it entailed getting the whole end of the vehicle in the air at the frame to test full droop to full compression travel of one corner at a time. The droop-to-compressed included steering axle wheels at full left, right and center positions. Can also measure bump steer, interference with hard parts, and other aspects for the front when in the air. Rear was much simpler, just up/down, maybe fore/aft travel.
There's several interesting discussions about shocks fitment and LMTV/MTV - I googled "lmtv fox shocks" and came up with some hits on this site and a few others. This one provides interesting technical on how and why to select valving and a number of manufacturers:
and these folks:
I've no experience with either organization and have no financial involvement - take it on your own...


Yes, will do. Suspension is top of the do-list. So far, I deleted the lower leaf from the rear spring pack as the static load on the rear axle is only 4560 lbs (stock was 6240). That was just to set the ride height. Next step is to remove the front shocks then test to baseline the suspension response then work it from there. It is going to porpoise and go bouncy, I get that, but its just a measurement.
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
708
443
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Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Right - without the extra rear leaf, softer rear suspension especially without a normal load. And removing the shocks allows defining suspension travel limits. That can be done without driving - somewhere I've got an old book on setting up suspensions for race cars. Race trucks are the same, just a lot larger. If I remember correctly, it entailed getting the whole end of the vehicle in the air at the frame to test full droop to full compression travel of one corner at a time. The droop-to-compressed included steering axle wheels at full left, right and center positions. Can also measure bump steer, interference with hard parts, and other aspects for the front when in the air. Rear was much simpler, just up/down, maybe fore/aft travel.
There's several interesting discussions about shocks fitment and LMTV/MTV - I googled "lmtv fox shocks" and came up with some hits on this site and a few others. This one provides interesting technical on how and why to select valving and a number of manufacturers:
Yep. We used to also weight each corner. It's part of the equation as well for baseline.

Once the coil overs were correct (which we don't really have expect on the A1R tucks, and it's a very different scenario since they are expecting a crapton of armor installed) then you would start tuning for rebound and compression via double/triple/quad bypass gas shocks. There is quite a bit of science to it and course conditions can warrant adjustments (one reason that it's helpful to prerun before a race).
 
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Mullaney

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Charlotte NC
Somehow I got old and I have problems climbing into my M1008. How in hell do you get in and out of that monster?
.
AGREED!

There are days when a rope ladder would be useful. Or a concrete block to reach that first step...

.
 

olly hondro

Active member
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Location
tucson AZ
Somehow I got old and I have problems climbing into my M1008. How in hell do you get in and out of that monster?
For the moment, I climb up and down the tire treads. Sooner or later I will hang a chain more or less where the step was. Am thinking of a transfer case chain: something flexible so it does not interfere when the cab is tilted, but stout. I am open to suggestions, however.
 

dougco1

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Cooperstown NY
For the moment, I climb up and down the tire treads. Sooner or later I will hang a chain more or less where the step was. Am thinking of a transfer case chain: something flexible so it does not interfere when the cab is tilted, but stout. I am open to suggestions, however.
You could mount a small fold up ladder and a grab bar on the cab wall behind your drivers door. When you want to get in just reach up and pull it down "like a set of attic stairs". When your up in the cab you just reach behind you and pull it back up and lock it in place.
 
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