tburk49760
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
My first heavy truck xm215
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tburk49760
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More progress today. Proof that I didn't cut up a perfectly good bed. Got to look in the r&m and see what regulates the box down pressure. Doesn't seem to want to pull very hard when its past over center. Hmmm. Almost ready for sanding then paint!!
tburk49760
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Yet more welding. About 20 holes to plug. Talked a friend into wire brushing the cab floor and then sprayed a little rust converter to prep for whatever coating its gonna get. 
tburk49760
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Got to work on he fuel gauge for a bit today and it now works correctly. Then had to pull Olga outside so I could pull the dodge in for a dragging parking brake problem. That will keep me busy for a couple of days. Aaargh.
tburk49760
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Still dealing with driver truck brake issues but took Olga out for a little spin and now it seems like I have no power assist. I've read most of the search engine results and still not sure what to do. Should I be hearing some sort of air release when releasing the brake pedal? Pedal travel seems correct, all the drums are similar temps but one is cold. Can I just take the airpak apart and clean it? Are parts available? Do the 5 ton pars work?
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Mine barks when I release the pedal. Not a big dog bark, more like a terrier bark.
My question would be, 'what could go wrong while it was sitting there'. If you have air pressure up, oil topped off and pads set right.....what could go wrong?
If you pull up the air-pak schematic and ID the "air tube" going into the back of the assembly, along the side to the front, this is where we're supposed to oil the air-pak. We obviously release all air from the system and remove the tube from the back of the air-pak. The TM asks for OHT oil and I have been advised to use 'air tool oil' for this location as well as the air-compressor governor lube points. (OHT in Eastern Canada stands for 'Oil in dat Hair Tube dare by')
Someone else will advise you on the air-pak tear-down. Brake shops that re-build these don't seem to have problems with parts but we've had some challenges getting kits put together so we can fix them ourselves. There is contact info from "Bendix" for a repair facility that has been helpful to everyone so far.
More then likely things just dried up a little and she got mad that you're working on something else.
My question would be, 'what could go wrong while it was sitting there'. If you have air pressure up, oil topped off and pads set right.....what could go wrong?
If you pull up the air-pak schematic and ID the "air tube" going into the back of the assembly, along the side to the front, this is where we're supposed to oil the air-pak. We obviously release all air from the system and remove the tube from the back of the air-pak. The TM asks for OHT oil and I have been advised to use 'air tool oil' for this location as well as the air-compressor governor lube points. (OHT in Eastern Canada stands for 'Oil in dat Hair Tube dare by')
Someone else will advise you on the air-pak tear-down. Brake shops that re-build these don't seem to have problems with parts but we've had some challenges getting kits put together so we can fix them ourselves. There is contact info from "Bendix" for a repair facility that has been helpful to everyone so far.
More then likely things just dried up a little and she got mad that you're working on something else.
tburk49760
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Definitely Novark any kind when I release the battle. I know in other places I found some kind of mud bugs plugging up tubes on the truck, I wonder if there's a vent somewhere that's plugged on this thing as well? I should clarify those mud bugs don't come from my neck the woods but where the truck spent the last 10 years sitting doing nothing there is a plethora of those little buggers. May haps if I study the schematic carefully, I can determine from whence the venting should occur and verify that that orifice is indeed clear?
butch atkins
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The vent for the brake power cylinder is the steel line that is in the center of the top of the air cleaner,when you press the brake pedal and then let it off you should hear air hissing in the line,let motor build up air pressure then cut motor off,have someone press brake pedal ,listen for air hissing into air cleaner ,if you don't hear air something is wrong with the air hydraulic cylinder.good luck on your project
tburk49760
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Since my drivetrain isn't even close to stock, and my air intake is custom by me and k&n, I will need to decipher which line that would be at the airpak. Prolly need to slog thru the manuals.
tburk49760
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Well I found the bleed and it was indeed plugged, by me. I thought it was just an airline going to know where whoops! So now that's free to do its thing, the brakes sneeze just like I think they should, however, they won't release. Every time I step on the brake pedal they get firmer and firmer until the truck won't even move! So now I get to decide whether I replace the master cylinder or the airpack and in which order and so on and so forth?? I did notice that my master cylinder is leaking pretty good or bad? So NAPA has one in stock it's going to be about $100. I think I'll start there and see if that was the problem if not I'll either be rebuilding or buying a new airpack. Just about the time I thought I was ready to squirt some primer and paint on this beast all this other little stuff crops up yikes!
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Is the peddle return spring there and working?
tburk49760
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It is and the pedal returns fine. My hope is that the master cylinder is at fault. It is quite gunked up also.
tburk49760
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Got the master cylinder and decided to replace both wheel cylinders on the right front. There was quite a leak. Tomorrow after firefighter training, I will hopefully get the new master cyl installed.my loyal shepherds keeping watch.
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Something looks different. The front spring hanger fooks a little longer. Where did the dog bones go?
tburk49760
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I've been thinking that same thing. Mayhaps the po that did the detroit install lifted the front? Or the springs sagged due to the additional weight? They are a bit less than flat. The front is pretty much the same height as the rear? Lifting the rear would be quite a task. The dog bones are long gone. I've been told this was a common mod to increase articulation.
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Ya know that pit in the stomach feelin', I just got it. I've read before that the top torque rod gets in the way when guys were swapping motors.
Looks like they jacked her up for clearance and the springs are all that's left to keep the diff from rolling, uck. From the pic it looks like some big spring stops were added and the pumpkin appears rolled to the back a bit already.
Hopefully some of the guys that know their rear ends like the back of their hands can chime in and give some guidance. The truck was designed for off-road, heavy loads and if you're not going to do that, maybe a lighter 4 link support could work but I'm certain the suspension kids would suspend that rig the way it is.
I'll snap some photos later of the original set-up.
Looks like they jacked her up for clearance and the springs are all that's left to keep the diff from rolling, uck. From the pic it looks like some big spring stops were added and the pumpkin appears rolled to the back a bit already.
Hopefully some of the guys that know their rear ends like the back of their hands can chime in and give some guidance. The truck was designed for off-road, heavy loads and if you're not going to do that, maybe a lighter 4 link support could work but I'm certain the suspension kids would suspend that rig the way it is.
I'll snap some photos later of the original set-up.
Section8
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Would see if there is a way to get that dog bone back on!!
I looked into having mine removed for my 6bt install. Was advised against it by members here so I did some research.
Seems that due to the gearing and torgue put through these axles removale of the torsion bars (dog bones) can result in axle warp or be bent in the tubes. Though it may not be noticable to the eye, this can cause failure of the axle due to seals, bearings and races being compressed or misaligned.
With the amount of torgue my engine may put through, I don't know about you but having my axles fly apart doesn't seem appealing.
I looked into having mine removed for my 6bt install. Was advised against it by members here so I did some research.
Seems that due to the gearing and torgue put through these axles removale of the torsion bars (dog bones) can result in axle warp or be bent in the tubes. Though it may not be noticable to the eye, this can cause failure of the axle due to seals, bearings and races being compressed or misaligned.
With the amount of torgue my engine may put through, I don't know about you but having my axles fly apart doesn't seem appealing.
butch atkins
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Looks like the front shock absorbers missing ,And the brake backing plates /brake shoes are totally out of orientation from where they should be! I don't like to try to tell another man about his women ,his money or his toys. You should seriously reconsider putting this truck on or off road unless you fix an obviously botched front end job.Dont want to pi$$ you off,but you are really out there as far as safety is concerned.If you choose to drive this truck ,buy the best insurance you can afford.REALLY?,REALLY?,THAT IS SO NOT SAFE
tburk49760
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No worries my feelers aren't hurt. Part of the reason I like this forum is to get other people who've been there done that to give me an opinion. The shock absorber is indeed there and appears to be doing it's thing. Yes the Lord bump stops are less than ideal solution to keep the pumpkin from hitting the oil pan. Part of the solution is for me to remove the oil pan and see if I can clearance it a little bit. As it is the oil pan clears the pumpkin by about 3 inches on a good day. Because of the way the motor mounts are set up, raising the engine would be a near impossibility. So what I think I'm understanding is that the caster has been essentially changed by lengthening the front shackles, thus rotating the opinion up, also this changes the orientation of the front brake shoes slightly? I wonder how hard it's going to be to find the front dog bones so I can install those as well as locating front shackles. Looking at it carefully I can't imagine that shortening the shackles by two or 3 inches would change the rotation of the axle that much though??
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G749 Re-engine front diff solutions
Here's a link to a picture of a 502 in an M211. It cheered me up so thought it would help.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-quot-conventional-quot-gas-burner-into-a-6X6
Post # 6.
It's not much help but here's a couple of pics of the original set-up. If you get a chance, put some more photos up of what you have to work with . The re-engine, dog-bone problem has been solved before so just need some options.
How'd it drive and feel the way it was?
Do you have any pics of the back of the backing plates on the front axle. It'd be good to see how they arranged the brake lines coming into the wheel cylinders. The TM's show the backing plate and wheel cylinders sitting at an angle. I'm trying to come up with a reason why it matters other than that's what the manual said. The PO that did the original work obviously didn't look at the TM's.
Here's a link to a picture of a 502 in an M211. It cheered me up so thought it would help.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-quot-conventional-quot-gas-burner-into-a-6X6
Post # 6.
It's not much help but here's a couple of pics of the original set-up. If you get a chance, put some more photos up of what you have to work with . The re-engine, dog-bone problem has been solved before so just need some options.
How'd it drive and feel the way it was?
Do you have any pics of the back of the backing plates on the front axle. It'd be good to see how they arranged the brake lines coming into the wheel cylinders. The TM's show the backing plate and wheel cylinders sitting at an angle. I'm trying to come up with a reason why it matters other than that's what the manual said. The PO that did the original work obviously didn't look at the TM's.
