My new 1992 M998 Avenger

[SmartDrug]

Heck yeah, man! That’s awesome! Great find!

 

[springer1981]

.
Pretty dang amazing that you found those dataplates...
AND that the seller was willing to help with the second plate!

The guy mentioned he had 3 Avengers... as it turns out he has another set of data plates and they are now listed on ebay. He probably realized someone might be looking for them after I said I bought it just for the data plate. I am really lucky he threw in the other one as well. I am also lucky that the set I ended up with are in much better condition than the ones listed now. That said I would have been just as happy either way as having them beats not having them.

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Here's mine compared to the ones listed now. There is a slight difference in the weight and balance plate, earlier vs later I suspect. Also the wear on the serial numbers etc.

Here's the current auction picture...

 

[FlameRed]

I was asked about the TPS sensor I used in my 4L80 conversion so I took a couple pictures.

I used a Standard TH160 TPS sensor that is a very common GM TPS sensor. For reference of the location, the first picture shows where the TPS sensor gets located. The connector just above the arrow is the TPS sensor connector and wiring that I ran into the cab to the Quick4 TCU.

View attachment 879776

You must first remove the Fan Cutoff switch and cam from the shaft.

I am just about at the point of installing the TPS on my 4L80 conversion. I wanted to ask about relocating the Fan Cutoff Switch. Might you have any pictures on where / how you relocated the Fan Cutoff Switch?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I am just about at the point of installing the TPS on my 4L80 conversion. I wanted to ask about relocating the Fan Cutoff Switch. Might you have any pictures on where / how you relocated the Fan Cutoff Switch?

fan cutoff switch moved to the throttle bracket as done on the turbo trucks or moved to the rear left head as done on A2 trucks

 

[springer1981]

The truck ran great all year. No leaks, no issues and starts right up. We have some snow coming (not much) and that signals to me it's time to put the truck in the garage for the winter. Not that it can't take the winter but so I can keep working on it and moving the project forward.

My garage is less than 1 mile from my house and first thing I notice is the volt meter higher than normal. It has never been anywhere except on the white line in the green area (Red Arrow). Today it's running in the Red area!! I parked the truck for a few minutes and when I came back, antifreeze under the truck!! Leaking like a Siv.

I drove the last mile of the year and all hell breaks loose! (ok not that bad but....WTF)

As underlined above, my truck started leaking as I was putting it away. Today I got under it to see where it was leaking from. This was a brand new hose, found the original seller and I believe it was NOS. Probably 30 year old surplus. EDIT: It was 18 year old surplus.

 

[springer1981]

Pulled the hose out today. Snapped a pic while I was under there. When I replaced all the hoses I also replace the metal cooling pipe as the original was all rusted. Found a "Stainless Steel" replacement and used it. I know stainless means less not stain proof. However there are many different grades or alloys of stainless. This doesn't seem all that stainless and probably should be called "Stainmore".

 

[springer1981]

Back on this post https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2481048 I mentioned when I was putting my truck up for the winter, the last mile of driving for the year, my generator went up on the charge voltage. Picture of the high reading in that post.

Today I tested everything to determine if it was the generator or the regulator. I attached the test procedure PDF below. After following the flow chart it indicated the regulator was bad. I replaced the regulator and it seems to function different than the original. The regulator that was in it always sat dead on the ideal line on the gauge. It never fluctuated or moved until it went high. That regulator was dated 2006 manufacture. I believe that regulator had been there since the repower of the truck in 2006 with the GEP 6.5.

The new regulator sits higher than the mark on the gauge but not in the red. It also starts of low and slowly comes up to charge. I did read the regulator was designed to ramp in the charging over a 10 second period so as to not overly strain the engine on start up. This one also varies with throttle. If you give it throttle and stays pretty still but if you tap the throttle and bump up the RPM's it will spike the gauge into the red and quickly settle back at normal.

I question if the new one is not working correctly or if it is just a different design and is working correctly. Time will tell but unfortunately when it does tell it will be because my batteries got wrecked by it.

 

[Coug]

Don't trust the gauges.

Using a multimeter, what voltage are the batteries reading while all of this is happening?

 

[springer1981]

Don't trust the gauges.

Using a multimeter, what voltage are the batteries reading while all of this is happening?

Yes and no.... gauges aren't always accurate but they mostly preform consistently. Also analog gauges show stuff digital gauges don't. A digital gauge samples and displays a mean average over time. A slight variation is often suppressed in a digital gauge. My digital VOM (Fluke) meter does this as well as all other digital meters. The dash gauge is analog and reacts no matter what is thrown at it. My analog gauge on the dash has been rock solid for 4 years of driving my truck. It never moved from the nominal line on the gauge. Now with a new regulator it clearly reacts different as shown in the video. It shows what you wouldn't see on the DVOM. For this reason, one of the best meters you can use is a Simpson Model 260. In this case, it isn't about the number on the meter as much as how the meter is reacting and showing what the regulator is doing. The dash gauge does this perfectly.

To your point of the batteries, the batteries act as a capacitor in a way since they store energy. They store so much energy that spikes are smoothed out. the analog meter will show those spikes and DVOM wont. The batteries read correct voltage with a DVOM but that doesn't negate what the regulator is actually doing.

 

[Coug]

Yes and no.... gauges aren't always accurate but they mostly preform consistently. Also analog gauges show stuff digital gauges don't. A digital gauge samples and displays a mean average over time. A slight variation is often suppressed in a digital gauge. My digital VOM (Fluke) meter does this as well as all other digital meters. The dash gauge is analog and reacts no matter what is thrown at it. My analog gauge on the dash has been rock solid for 4 years of driving my truck. It never moved from the nominal line on the gauge. Now with a new regulator it clearly reacts different as shown in the video. It shows what you wouldn't see on the DVOM. For this reason, one of the best meters you can use is a Simpson Model 260. In this case, it isn't about the number on the meter as much as how the meter is reacting and showing what the regulator is doing. The dash gauge does this perfectly.

To your point of the batteries, the batteries act as a capacitor in a way since they store energy. They store so much energy that spikes are smoothed out. the analog meter will show those spikes and DVOM wont. The batteries read correct voltage with a DVOM but that doesn't negate what the regulator is actually doing.

all true, but I'm more concerned about what the actual voltage is at the batteries with the gauge sitting right at the top of the green. If it's 29V or below, then the little spikes up above that shouldn't be of particular issue. If it's above that, depending on your battery type, you might need to check and add distilled water more often (if flooded lead acid and non maintenance free type) or much higher than that would tell you that the regulator is not acting correctly before you fry your batteries.

Also to comment, just because the gauge has behaved the exact same way for 4 years doesn't mean it's reading exactly where it is supposed to, and the old regulator might have been producing lower voltage.


But yes, I definitely agree if the gauge is acting differently than normal something is up and needs verified.

 

[springer1981]

all true, but I'm more concerned about what the actual voltage is at the batteries with the gauge sitting right at the top of the green. If it's 29V or below, then the little spikes up above that shouldn't be of particular issue. If it's above that, depending on your battery type, you might need to check and add distilled water more often (if flooded lead acid and non maintenance free type) or much higher than that would tell you that the regulator is not acting correctly before you fry your batteries.

Also to comment, just because the gauge has behaved the exact same way for 4 years doesn't mean it's reading exactly where it is supposed to, and the old regulator might have been producing lower voltage.


But yes, I definitely agree if the gauge is acting differently than normal something is up and needs verified.

First, thanks for the input. I appreciate all comments, suggestions, different points of view, etc.

I did check the charging but while working on something else (next post) I checked it again and took some pictures. It averages between 28.14 and 28.49 VDC on my DVOM. The analog meter still works as described before and seen in the video.

 

[springer1981]

So today was the day to finish the light switch modifications started here https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2460891

In the thread there was some discussion about leaving certain circuits "powered up". My thought process was to use the "Run" circuit from the ignition switch to power the necessary circuits for typical motor vehicle operation when you "start up and go". That said, I was going to supply that additional power circuit using and unused pin on the light switch connector, Pin L. Turns out the factory light plug is molded and Pin L isn't accessible to tap without cutting it off and replacing it completely. The red arrow points to where Pin L should be.



Rather than use Pin L, I had an old Fuel gauge and I removed one of the terminals to use. I purchased a nylon spacer from a local hardware store (red arrow below) and I drilled a hole in the back of the light switch. I turned it down so it would insulate the terminal from the metal housing.



Here it is after I completed it.



I made a "Y" connector to tap the "Run" circuit and supply power to "Pin L" (now added power connector), then I tested all switch functions. It functions as expected.

With ignition off, the light switch can be set to running lights and headlights but directionals, brakes and horn will not function.
With ignition in Run and light switch off, directionals, horn and brake lights all function. Basically "get in and go" and all the primary functions work.
With ignition in Run and all primary functions working, the light switch can now be turned to "Running lights" and then to "Running lights and Headlights".

The alternate method, not using an external power source would allow all the brake lights, horn and directionals work at anytime regardless of the ignition choice, ie Run or Off. I didn't take a picture of it after install but it is installed now.