My (new) M1008...

Rutjes

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You mentioned priming the fuel filter. I think it would've started by now. Charge your batteries and then try loosening up some of the injector lines on the injector side before trying to start. When fuel starts dripping out, tighten them. There might still be air in there?
 

vanaisa

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I´ll try.
And yes - this car has great grounds :D You should have seen my face when i opened hood.

Edit: opened 4 injectors, there was some air, crancked - still no fuel from there.
Maybe lift pump is just old and weak?
Opened screw from fuel filter - when cranking, there was dripping, but not very powerful, not splashing to whole fender...
 
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Mullaney

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I´ll try.
And yes - this car has great grounds :D You should have seen my face when i opened hood.

Edit: opened 4 injectors, there was some air, crancked - still no fuel from there.
Maybe lift pump is just old and weak?
Opened screw from fuel filter - when cranking, there was dripping, but not very powerful, not splashing to whole fender...
.
It is almost tempting to grab a set of cutters and start hacking out all that weird wiring.

I know it would suck, but at least then you wouldn't be battling problems that you didn't create. On one of my trucks, I have removed almost a half of a 5 gallon bucket full of "wires to nowhere" . Even discovered Cat 5 Ethernet cabling running from under the dash to the back bumper. That was zip-tied to the trailer plug.
 

vanaisa

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You are right. But in current time this strange GP wiring is working. I just want to start engine, then it is "back to original" wiring time.
Also i have power to fat IP wire, jumped also power to thinner green wire.
I search, maybe i find here locally electric fuel pump - 6.5D or something similar. IF this isnt bring fuel to injectors, then probably IP is somehow internally dead. Well, IF i am right :)
 

chevymike

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I ran into this last year after it died while driving. Found the fuel solenoid, though make a "click" sound, it wasn't enough to open the fuel port. I replaced the solenoid with a new one and then got a "CLICK" from it and was able to get fuel through. I did put a clear hose on that return line out of the IP pump. No fuel before changing the solenoid, fuel thru it after changing. I would start there, since you are getting fuel out of the filter.
 

vanaisa

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Mike, i think there is my problem - took cover off, bowl was full of fresh fuel.
Solenoid clicked, moved - i just cant see there, what it moves. Yes, i looked manual and know that it opens/closes metering valve.
Anyway, cleaned everything, put cover back and same thing - nothing.
Today is late already and i am pretty pissed - batteries are charging again, tomorrow i take this thing open again and maybe try solenoid from my 1009.
Maybe solenoid arm just doesnt open valve or is still too weak? We´ll see...

Screenshot 2021-08-12 at 19-19-21 Stanadyne DB2 Fuel System pdf.png

Thank you all for your help!
 

vanaisa

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I started to think (strange, i know) - i ordered electric lift pump for 6.5 engine. Is it OK or maybe too high psi?

Otherwise nothing new, rains every day, only managed to fix front lights grounds, replaced all outside bulbs and found that hi-low beam switch probably is shot. No hi-beams, sometimes no low beam either.

Also ordered bed cover, need to remove those seats before.
 

vanaisa

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Another day.... Tank is not bad at all. I found one bigger hole (was plugged with epoxy) and some smaller pinholes. Inside is descent, when i remove this surface rust.

DSC_2598.JPG
DSC_2599.JPG

Even sock is pretty clean. Seems that our army always used clean diesel :)

DSC_2593.JPG

Before i start welding tank - it is damn small - is it possible install there M1009 (or something similar), between frame rails, where spare tire is? My M1009 is away in this weekend, so i can not measure.
 
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Rutjes

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Another day.... Tank is not bad at all. I found one bigger hole (was plugged with epoxy) and some smaller pinholes. Inside is descent, when i remove this surface rust.

View attachment 843011
View attachment 843012

Even sock is pretty clean. Seems that our army always used clean diesel :)

View attachment 843013

Before i start welding tank - it is damn small - is it possible install there M1009 (or something similar), between frame rails, where spare tire is? My M1009 is away in this weekend, so i can not measure.
Blazer/Suburban tank will fit. Fairly easy to do. You need a piece of angle iron and re-use the factory spare tire brace. Google it, plenty of forum posts and videos. May I suggest getting a plastic tank? Easiest is to have the filler in the bed. I'm having someone move the fuel filler door.

Here's mine:

IMG_20190908_175711(1).jpg

I had a M1009 as donor so I used the rear most crossmember for a better fit, but it's not required.
 

vanaisa

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Ahh, great! :) I probably can locate Subu/Tahoe tank here locally. As i remember, my ´98 Tahoe has metal tank. Still better than this original small one.
And i dont like to keep spare tire down there anyway. Thanks! Might slightly help with weight balance too.
 

vanaisa

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OK, another day, another bad news.
Changed fuel shutoff solenoid with known working one, installed electric lift pump.
No fuel in IP bowl or in return line. To the IP fuel is comingwith good pressure.
So - IP is seized internally? What i can do more, before to start removing IP? aua
I poured IP bowl full of ATF ca week ago, it is still there.
Also, throttle shaft has pretty big restriction in center/halfway position. Before and after it moves freely.

Truck was sitting last 1,5 years (just for information)

Edit: there should be some kind of "screen" right after inlet - maybe compressed air will help? Or can this damage something in IP?
Or strong chemicals/solvents?
 
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Keith_J

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Sounds like the fuel metering valve is stuck shut. It must move freely as it opens under very light spring force and is closed by the centrifugal force of the governor fly weights. The shut off solenoid also closes this valve to shut off the engine so they like to stick in the closed position.
You can gently turn this valve to see if that cures the problem. You uploaded a great picture of the total mechanism in post 26 above. The shut off solenoid pushes the arm back to shut off. The arm should move slightly forward to idle when the solenoid is energized, check this by pushing the arm back and see if it moves forward under its spring force next time you have the cover off.
 
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vanaisa

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Thanks Keith!
Seems that my problem is in inlet side. I took intake off yesterday and got clearance to screw fuel inlet connection off. It was full of white crystallized crap. Hard too, removed with drill bit.
So next step is to remove inlet cap, i am sure screen/filter inside there is full of same crap. If this does not help, then it is IP rebuild time. Or time to buy new one (if i find correct fueled/timed one).

About diode question (post #36) - i removed diode, put straight wire there. Now water in fuel light lights for half second when i put ignition switch to run position. Should be OK, i think.

DSC_2614.JPG
 
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cucvrus

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On a quiet day in Tallinn, Estonia they say you can hear a CUCV rusting. Looks good I like it. I like stuff that looks a bit rough but functions like new. I had my Terminus M1009. I ran it like a stolen horse and maintained it like a new truck. Take Care.
 
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