My (new) M1008...

Keith_J

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You can't adjust timing, it takes special tools. You could turn the fuel up, with the pump removed, there is a Pentagon shaped cover on the left side, two screws hold it. Remove this cover and turn the hub until the screw access hole is seen. Insert a 3/32" hex head driver..make sure it fits tightly. Tighten 1/4 turn maximum. This should set a LD C code to the HD J code injection volume. You should install an exhaust gas temperature probe, maximum sustained 1100 °F
 

vanaisa

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Thanks! Yes, thats what i thought - when IP off, i have access to this small cover. So 1/4 turn is safe and with HD specs?
By timing, i mean when engine is running - by marks on IP body (here are lots of good topics about this procedure). Or leave marks, as they are IF truck runs OK?
I have Autometer Pyro on my old turbo Talon, must take that off and install to 1008.

After all this work, i probably open old IP and look what happening inside. And maybe try to rebuild it.
 

vanaisa

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OK, got this old sucker out finally. Tomorrow i install new IP.

DSC_2621.JPG

My new IP is: J9 DB2829-4790 ( 1990 LD C/K, R/V & G Van (Auto. Trans.) G)
and old: A0 DB2829-4267 ( 1984-85 CUCV (Military), HD C/K, D)

There are notes:
C/K — Injector - 84 mm length, 6 mm dia. nozzle valve; Lines - 2.50 mm I.D.; Delivery Valve Retraction - 30mm3
G — Injector - 74 mm length, 5 mm dia. nozzle valve; Lines - 2.00 mm I.D.; Delivery Valve Retraction - 22.5mm3

Seems that injectors and lines are different but i have old ones - should fit?

So i turn fuel up 1/4 turn and should be OK?
 

Keith_J

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The replacement unit will fit. The outlet fittings should be the same, the only real difference is injected quantity is slightly less, turning it up a bit less than a 1/4 turn will correct this. It should also slightly advance timing as it increases stroke which places start of injection sooner on the cam ring.
 

vanaisa

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Keith,
yes IP went in, all lines connected, no problems at all. First i connected lines to injectors by hand, then to IP. Two lower were more difficult, others were easy. I used 5/8 normal wrench. Left injector lines slightly open for priming.
Turned fuel up by 1/8 turn. And set pump timing half millimeter advanced from mark.
Swiched electric lift pump and within 3...4 minutes there was just fuel on return line, no bubbles.

That is all good news. Connected needed wires, opened blocked engine intake holes, tried to start. Found that one battery is brick, showed 11.2 volts. So i need new battery, probably on monday. In mean time i remove starter, i am sure that is in bad condition too. Sounds like bendix does not return after crank. Oh well. aua Whisky time.

But i am sure i get it running next week.

Oh, yes - old IP is probably totally toasted - i can barely move it by hand. I open it tomorrow, we´ll see how bad inside is.

Edit:
took starter off, send it to check. Supporting brace is even there, starter bolts are wrong type.
As nothing more to do, i started to retrofit back to original wiring (and remove this horrible "yellow grounding" wiring) :) - done
Found removed cold advance/fast idle switch wires - good
Found cut pink fat wire near 24V pos and neg bars - seems come from cab - what for is it? I dont see similar wire there in my 1009.
Can not find purple wire what should go to solenoid on starter - ?
Can not find low engine coolant sensor (right side in radiator) wire (black/yellow?) - ?
Where to connect water sensor wires from fuel filter assembly?

And - old IP is officially seized now. Cant take it even apart. Seems that old owner ran truck with who-knows-what nasty fuel.
 
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vanaisa

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Todays progress: finished original wiring restore (GP and start); found fuel heater wires (connectors on car and on filter assembly were different), greased heater fan, it is running again, cleared slightly melted fuse 5 socket (seized fan).

Found that rear lights wiring is totally F**** up, windscreen washer pump doesnt work (not checked power or ground jet).

Still need to know, what for is this connector: OK, this is water in fuel connector for 1984 production year. Later ones used 3 wire connectors (like in my 1008.

DSC_2632.JPG

Explanation is here, post #5:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/6-2-fuel-filter-assembly-how-does-it-work.152732/

And where should go this pink wire:

DSC_2633.JPG

And - does someone knows, where in wiring loom is purple wire end what goes to starter solenoid?

Edit: removed horn supressor - it is working now, connected WIF and fuel heater connectors, repaired cold advance/fast idle switch wires, sent starter to shop for inspection/repair. Cleaned washer connector and contacts, it is working now.
 
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vanaisa

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Well, some updates. Found that this "pink" wire is very faded purple :) So starter solenoid wire is finally found (and i am probably colorblind).
Starter come back from shop, was in good condition, they only lubed bushings. Installed starter, swiched on electric fuel pump and cranked engine.
Batteries are weak, can not crank more than 10..15 seconds. But when i opened injector lines, there was fuel and air bubbling out. Gave him 10 seconds glowplugs, tried to start, failed. Charged batteries overnight and tried again, same poor result.

So i need new batteries and probably, to be sure i remove all glowplugs again and test them again and wiring too. GP relay is working, checked that.

Also no smoke from tailpipes - should i remove and check injectors too?
 

cucvrus

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I didn't see this post. Yes make sure you have a starter heat shield in place and the wire starter trigger wire goes behind the heat shield and onto the inner stud on the starter. I would turn the injection pump towards the drivers side 2 line thicknesses and see if that helps. With the glow plugs removed crank that thing with the nozzle nuts loose and get pre fuel with no air. When you see pure fuel tighten the nozzle nuts and install the glow plugs. Try and start it as normal with good batteries. Good Luck. I hope it starts. You have been working hard. you do have 12 keyed volts to the injection pump? Just checking. Take Care. Be Safe.
 

vanaisa

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Ahh, heat shield of course - it is long gone, must fabricate something myself there. Thanks for tip, cucvrus!
Does anybody have picture of heat shield? And where it connects?

IP is lined about 1/2 millimeters towards to drivers side. I just afraid, that if old IP was so full of gunk that finally seized, maybe injectors are ruined too. Because i didnt see any smoke from tailpipes. And sure thing, there was fuel and air bubbling out of injector lines nuts. Maybe i must try some wd40 straight to intake?

Yes, 12 volts on pink shutoff solenoid wire, return line is flowing too.
Tomorrow friend brings back my 1009, i can use it as start support. My charger is weak, only have 55 amps start and it is 12V of course.
Well, in worse case i must change injectors....
 

vanaisa

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OK, removed and tested glow plugs again, they work. Wiring is OK also.
Cranked engine 5x10sec (1 minute between to cool starter). No fuel mist from GP holes. Opened injector line cap, got some fuel from there.

So, how probable is, that all injectors are also plugged with this crap, what previous owner used as fuel?
 

Mullaney

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OK, removed and tested glow plugs again, they work. Wiring is OK also.
Cranked engine 5x10sec (1 minute between to cool starter). No fuel mist from GP holes. Opened injector line cap, got some fuel from there.

So, how probable is, that all injectors are also plugged with this crap, what previous owner used as fuel?
.
Sad but possible.
Would think that the IP would be full of that same "growth" too.

Thinking logically, you would think that ALL the injectors shouldn't be plugged. Guess you have already tried cracking one of the injector lines to see if the IP is pumping out the other side?
 

vanaisa

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IP is new (well, used one), old was almost seized, very hard to rotate by hand.

Yes, all injector lines have fuel in injector side. Oh well, need new injectors then...
First i probably just take few out and look, what is happening inside.

Here is Bosch catalog with parts numbers etc.
 

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cucvrus

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A used injection pump is not new and is not considered rebuilt. Unless I heard and knew the engine that the donor pump was removed from ran as designed I would not even go thru the effort to install a used injection pump. And that would be ME seeing and hearing the engine run that the injection pump came off of. And then maybe. Then again maybe not. Used injection pumps are considered cores for rebuilding. Good Luck. I know you are in a tough situation but there are other alternatives to do the job correctly.
 

vanaisa

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Yes, i saw and hear pump/truck running. I was just stupid not to buy injectors from that car too. But in that time i didnt know, that my IP is totaled, probably not suitable even for core.
This all is in my older posts here ;)
 

vanaisa

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Thank You for offer! Yes i am too far. I can order Bosch injectors here, price wise same as from rockauto, without shipping/customs.
New is new.
What i need, is to locate good core for rebuild in your side, i dont like those generic rebuild ones from rockauto or ebay.
 

M1009_SPAIN

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Thank You for offer! Yes i am too far. I can order Bosch injectors here, price wise same as from rockauto, without shipping/customs.
New is new.
What i need, is to locate good core for rebuild in your side, i dont like those generic rebuild ones from rockauto or ebay.
there is no reputable ip rebuilder in your area?
 

Rutjes

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Thank You for offer! Yes i am too far. I can order Bosch injectors here, price wise same as from rockauto, without shipping/customs.
New is new.
What i need, is to locate good core for rebuild in your side, i dont like those generic rebuild ones from rockauto or ebay.
May I ask where you can order those injectors?
 
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