My new M109

[Jericho]

Biggest thing ive noticed is the tank to bracket braze,s come loose from vibration, isolated them with a hefty dose of black GE RTV WORKS!

 

[Wolfgang the Gray]

Working through all the issues....

My radiator is leaking, so I took it out and had a radiator shop check it out.

They say it needs to be recored due to to corrosion. I trust them. To the tune of $800.

I read another member had retrofitted a 'civilian' radiator to the tune of about $400, that is a possibility. So I checked Ebay and NOS are running $800-$900. Kinda pricey.

So there are a ton of these trucks out on the road, how are others handling leaky 40 year old radiators in an economical fashion?

What about buying a new radiator for a large truck (semi or slightly smaller)? Just match up the size. I'd try that before buying used.

 

[rustystud]

What about buying a new radiator for a large truck (semi or slightly smaller)? Just match up the size. I'd try that before buying used.

I agree. In fact the radiators used in IHC Loadstars is very close to the deuce radiator in size and shape.

 

[onemanarmy]

I agree. In fact the radiators used in IHC Loadstars is very close to the deuce radiator in size and shape.

That's why I was asking. Of all the M35A2s out there, one would think that not everyone is spending 1000 dollars for a new radiator

Found this, and it went nowhere fast (as most threads do)
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?12594-Alternate-M35a2-radiator

and then this:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-replaced-with-aftermarket-universal-radiator

somewhat helpful, but even then, its right at $400 with a lot of leg work and parts store hopping..and no shroud, and the filler cap is hard to get to, etc.

Was just curious if anyone had retrofitted a proper unit

 

[onemanarmy]

So, I took my radiator out and had it checked. Was told it could be re-cored for $900, so I didn't do that. I put it back in and will run it, while topping off the coolant here and there. Doesn't leak that bad, yet.

Then took it for its first drive, about 40 miles. It ran fine. Moved along a 45-50 mph no problem.

However, after that drive, I noticed the in tank fuel pump was making a pretty awful racket (higher pitched whine and when I turned it off, it made a slight grinding sound when coming to a stop) So I guess that is my next project.

I've been seeing the external retrofit electric fuel pumps for a reasonable sum, and may go that route, or should I go factory replacement in tank?

If I go the external route, is the in tank pump removed or just bypassed?

One other (dumb) question....do you leave the electric fuel pump running at all times when the truck is running? Is it possible to shut that off once the truck starts? I've never tried it.

I did start painting my wheels...only got the front 2 done at this point due to time limitations.

 

[onemanarmy]

updates:

Replaced the in tank fuel pump with one of the 'take outs' from the auction site. works great (so far, about 200 miles)

Got all the wheels painted, and went tailgating a bit for NC State


Been doing some odds and ends...doesn't really NEED much, but lots of things I want to do

Have a couple questions about things around the engine:

1: What is this piece that sits on top of the engine?


2: How do you change this 1" length hose? Terrible design.


3: It appears that my turbo is leaking oil. When the truck is running, there is enough oil leaking to smoke a bit. It runs fine though, and no odd noises. Are these rebuildable? Replace it? Upgrade? Or just leave it? Its a D turbo, and I know about the whistlers and all that, doesn't really matter to me, and they are more expensive.


4: Is there a good reason that I should really dig into it and take everything off the engine and replace gaskets and seals?

Thanks

 

[Another Ahab]

I can't help you on the technical questions, but want to tell you that your rig sure looks good.

Happy New Year to you!

 

[winfred]

1 is the flame heater, that may or may not function
2 i am going to remove the 3 branch pipe that each of those hoses are connected to as thats probably less annoying then removing the intake manifold
3 make sure the turbo is not being dripped upon by the flame heater injector that lives in the intake pipe just above it

 

[rustystud]

It's not uncommon for the "D" turbo to leak a bit of oil at idle. If it goes away when driving I would leave it alone. If on the other hand it is causing blue smoke all the time then it's time to replace the turbo. I haven't been able to find a place that will rebuild the "D" turbos . There are kits still available for the "C" turbos though.

 

[onemanarmy]

1 is the flame heater, that may or may not function
2 i am going to remove the 3 branch pipe that each of those hoses are connected to as thats probably less annoying then removing the intake manifold
3 make sure the turbo is not being dripped upon by the flame heater injector that lives in the intake pipe just above it

Thanks. I'll check