Jimc
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Thats all thats in the flywheel. There are a few small dash marks around the pc mark but other than that, thats all you need. Each timing button will adjust timing 1/2 of one of those marks.
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My new to me 002A's
- Thread starter dangier
- Start date
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
Working on pulling the ip apart and trying to follow the TM. My pump seems different with item #20A and #21. I don't have the split rings that I can see. Please see picture. Without forcing anything I have not made much progress. Item #35 (spacer) was folded up as installed. Have done some research at Ambac and this pump from model # is a PSU pump (don't know if it make any difference).
My model # is 2/4A-80E-9328A and has been replaced by 2/4A-80-9540A.
The item in the center is the end of the rod with a mushroomed head. The u shaped clip has a circular metal piece imbedded in it. There does not seem to be room to push part of it aside to come off the rod.
Anyone seen this before?
Thanks,
David
My model # is 2/4A-80E-9328A and has been replaced by 2/4A-80-9540A.
The item in the center is the end of the rod with a mushroomed head. The u shaped clip has a circular metal piece imbedded in it. There does not seem to be room to push part of it aside to come off the rod.
Anyone seen this before?
Thanks,
David
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
....Do I need to be looking for two #20A clips?
David
David
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Ouch, Thats one of the old IPs. I doubt there will be much fixing that one. I got your email, working on a reply, loading pics.
DeucesWild11
Active member
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You guys seem to know what you are talking about but since I just went through timing my MEP002 I thought I would share one critical thing someone mentioned to me. You can set the IP and Flywheel to the PC mark, however with each revolution of the engine the flywheel spins twice, so unless you can see the position of the engine you have a 50:50 shot of getting it right the first time out. Obviously I did not but after turning the flywheel one more rotation.. Bingo!
I have never timed anything before so this info was Gold to me..
I have never timed anything before so this info was Gold to me..
Jimc
Member
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- Mullica, nj
yes exactly right. as soon as the intake valve closes on #1 (blower wheel end) then you crank around until you hit the pc mark.
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
Another poster had mentioned it also somewhere. I had the rocker cover off and was watching the valve closure for #1. Experience is a valuable teacher.....
David
David
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
Many thanks to gimpyrobb for furnishing a new ip pump for my 002A.
David
David
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
They are ALIVE! Well, one 002A is. If any of you have been following this thread, you know that I have been pulling what is left of my hair out with a gunked up fuel system. Gimpyrobb is furnishing a new ip and storeman has agreed to rebuild the other ip that is stuck (I figured that an extra ip on the shelf couldn't hurt). Thanks guys!
Today I started looking at the other 002A that was in the light plant set. Noticed that the ip had only two nuts holding it on the block. In addition, the injector lines were hand tight and the fuel input line was not connected. Pulled it off, flushed with MMO to get any possible dirt out that I could. Thought I would try the ip in the cleaned up genset just for grins. Guess what? This ip was pumping fuel! Had no clue about the button size. Hooked everything up, hit the prime and start and after 15 to 20 seconds it was trying to start. Any away it went! Since I had the sheet metal off, I only let it run for 20 seconds or so. Tried again in an hour and it started right up. Has started every time since then (done it just to hear it run). Hz and voltage is right on.
Many thanks to all who commented on my situation and this board for having the resources of information available.
.....Now to start cleaning up the other set.
Today I started looking at the other 002A that was in the light plant set. Noticed that the ip had only two nuts holding it on the block. In addition, the injector lines were hand tight and the fuel input line was not connected. Pulled it off, flushed with MMO to get any possible dirt out that I could. Thought I would try the ip in the cleaned up genset just for grins. Guess what? This ip was pumping fuel! Had no clue about the button size. Hooked everything up, hit the prime and start and after 15 to 20 seconds it was trying to start. Any away it went! Since I had the sheet metal off, I only let it run for 20 seconds or so. Tried again in an hour and it started right up. Has started every time since then (done it just to hear it run). Hz and voltage is right on.
Many thanks to all who commented on my situation and this board for having the resources of information available.
.....Now to start cleaning up the other set.
storeman
Well-known member
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- Mathews County, VA
Congrats David!
Someone please disabuse me of this notion......My impression over time is that any IP (with it's proper button, stamped on it) is a "drop in" to replace any other IP. The only time port closing dimensions really come into play is when you are trying to install an IP which has not been matched to a button and trial and error via flow method with a known test button is required and button size is adjusted from there. Shims follow blocks...buttons follow IPs? I know we have had this discussion before but my mind is growing feeble and David's experience just reignited a lingering spark.
Jerry
Someone please disabuse me of this notion......My impression over time is that any IP (with it's proper button, stamped on it) is a "drop in" to replace any other IP. The only time port closing dimensions really come into play is when you are trying to install an IP which has not been matched to a button and trial and error via flow method with a known test button is required and button size is adjusted from there. Shims follow blocks...buttons follow IPs? I know we have had this discussion before but my mind is growing feeble and David's experience just reignited a lingering spark.
Jerry
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
Jerry,
I guess with that notion, I will leave the ip in its current working location and put the rebuild in the donor unit. Hate to take the working one out since it starts in one or two revolutions.
Glad the injectors are working good. I was looking at the new/rebuilt ip and injector work. Motor seems very tight. I had sprayed wd40 in intake (my way of checking compression-see it has enough to pop off). When I went to turn it over by hand later, I could barely move it (not hydro locked) by hand. This was before it started.
Thanks,
David
I guess with that notion, I will leave the ip in its current working location and put the rebuild in the donor unit. Hate to take the working one out since it starts in one or two revolutions.
Glad the injectors are working good. I was looking at the new/rebuilt ip and injector work. Motor seems very tight. I had sprayed wd40 in intake (my way of checking compression-see it has enough to pop off). When I went to turn it over by hand later, I could barely move it (not hydro locked) by hand. This was before it started.
Thanks,
David
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
Jerry,
sent an e-mail.
David
sent an e-mail.
David
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Jerry, David is buying an IP from me. He said that the numbers on his old pump are 1.09 and his button is a "1" which is .119. The IP I have for him is 1.080, SO I take the 1.09 and add the .119 which is 1.209. I then take 1.209 and subtract 1.080 to get .129. I now need to see if I have a 14 or P size button for his IP since .128 is the closest to .129.Congrats David!
Someone please disabuse me of this notion......My impression over time is that any IP (with it's proper button, stamped on it) is a "drop in" to replace any other IP. The only time port closing dimensions really come into play is when you are trying to install an IP which has not been matched to a button and trial and error via flow method with a known test button is required and button size is adjusted from there. Shims follow blocks...buttons follow IPs? I know we have had this discussion before but my mind is growing feeble and David's experience just reignited a lingering spark.
Jerry
Clear as mud?
I sold an IP to Wildchild and it worked well this way.
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
"clear as mud" Right about that. Looks like I am going to have to practice on this one.....
Thanks for your outstanding support!
David
Thanks for your outstanding support!
David
storeman
Well-known member
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- Mathews County, VA
Gimpy,
I have done it that way and it works. That is the way I strive for. Have also sold or installed several IP's with their own matching buttons and they have also worked. Still clear as mud. Stay well.
Jerry
I have done it that way and it works. That is the way I strive for. Have also sold or installed several IP's with their own matching buttons and they have also worked. Still clear as mud. Stay well.
Jerry
LuckyDog
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- Freedom, NH
The way I tend to remember it (Button and shims)
Shims stay on the block. The shims adjust how far the teeth on the IP go into the teeth on the cam shaft.
Timing Button then adjusts the length of IP plunger so that the port closes at the correct time and the plunger then pushes the fuel through the injector.
So, first thing is to get the gear mesh correct, then adjust for timing. The math works well but I think the flow method is the best (if the pointer hasn't been moved).
Hope that helps.
Shims stay on the block. The shims adjust how far the teeth on the IP go into the teeth on the cam shaft.
Timing Button then adjusts the length of IP plunger so that the port closes at the correct time and the plunger then pushes the fuel through the injector.
So, first thing is to get the gear mesh correct, then adjust for timing. The math works well but I think the flow method is the best (if the pointer hasn't been moved).
Hope that helps.
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
Posted this on Smokstak, but thought I post here also.
Performed load test today on my first 002A. It did very well:
I have a heat pump are handler section set up with 4-5000 watt switchable strip heaters and a fan. With one 5000 watt stage on, the panel showed 85% and picked up the load quickly. Hz was at 60.2 (240 volts single phase). Added a 1320 watt heater and again minimal sound change, but still right on 60.2 hz (105% load indicated). Dropped the 1320 watt out and added a 1650 watt heater. Hz at 60.0, 110% load indicated. I let the unit operate for 20 minutes in this configuration. Everything appears normal. Reduced the load to 5000 watts, 85% load and ran for another 1 1/2 hours then cooled off and shut down.
When I made load changes up or down, there was very minimal change in the hz. The most change I observed was 59.9 to 60.3 on my digital hz meter. Battery charging condition was at the top of the green section. VOM indicated 29.9 volts dc. Overall, very happy with the performance. Just for grins, I hit the second 5000 watt stage when the single 5000 watt section was on to see what would happen. Engine bogged down and a lot of black smoke. Clearly it was overloaded and shut second stage down. There was a little engine hunting before it warmed up. After about 5 minutes, the hunting cleared up and I never saw it again.
Good running little unit-I might just keep it.
David
Performed load test today on my first 002A. It did very well:
I have a heat pump are handler section set up with 4-5000 watt switchable strip heaters and a fan. With one 5000 watt stage on, the panel showed 85% and picked up the load quickly. Hz was at 60.2 (240 volts single phase). Added a 1320 watt heater and again minimal sound change, but still right on 60.2 hz (105% load indicated). Dropped the 1320 watt out and added a 1650 watt heater. Hz at 60.0, 110% load indicated. I let the unit operate for 20 minutes in this configuration. Everything appears normal. Reduced the load to 5000 watts, 85% load and ran for another 1 1/2 hours then cooled off and shut down.
When I made load changes up or down, there was very minimal change in the hz. The most change I observed was 59.9 to 60.3 on my digital hz meter. Battery charging condition was at the top of the green section. VOM indicated 29.9 volts dc. Overall, very happy with the performance. Just for grins, I hit the second 5000 watt stage when the single 5000 watt section was on to see what would happen. Engine bogged down and a lot of black smoke. Clearly it was overloaded and shut second stage down. There was a little engine hunting before it warmed up. After about 5 minutes, the hunting cleared up and I never saw it again.
Good running little unit-I might just keep it.
David
Jimc
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- Mullica, nj
Thats fantastic. Glad it runs great.
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
I have to build a load bank with smaller steps. 5k is too much of a jump for these smaller units. Would have been nice to see how far I could add load before it lost control.
David
David
- 341
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Orange, VA
Also noticed that both on my units had the convenience outlets disconnected and taped off. Has others found this also? Wonder it this is a military thing? It is a real bear to get those small brass screws out, much less get them threaded back in without dropping them behind the wiring.