• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Nebulous, M1009

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
You are doing great. You will get the golden wrench award with CUCV cluster. That is a spray painted 8 inch adjustable wrench surrounded by rusty fatigued CUCV parts and all wired together. I have barrels of wasted worn out CUCV parts. And a huge pile.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I do not believe that! :sad:
OH tis true. As you sand and paint you will see the transformation and it will inspire you do keep going. trust me. You done the hard parts changing the fender aprons and such. Just keep going. Start sanding with 80 grit and finish that with 180 grit. Seal it and paint it. Spend more time preparing the vehicle then you do painting it. Like 10 times more time in preparation time. Anything you don't repair properly is still there after you paint it and just painted over. That is poor workmanship and I see that all the time. Spend the extra time and get the desired results. Anyone can hack a job and get it done. Please tape up everything real well and cover anything you don't want painted. You are not painting a masterpiece but if you spend the time you can achieve a very nice looking M1009 with the patina that it should have. Since you are driving it everyday you don't need a trailer queen. Just a nice functional CUCV. Good Luck. Have questions Please ask them.
 

kkcshipp

Member
130
-1
16
Location
Elizabethtown, KY
Roger that, I'm pointing out the areas of special emphasis I want my son to sand (as he will do most of the work). I have a friend who is trying to get me near some CUCVs at an "un-disclosed" location so I can replace some parts before full paint. I have a cracked hood, gotta replace both rusty rocker panels (Going to use the glue technique described here), and got a couple places needing welding or maybe shoring up under the seats where the floor has cracked. Like you said it's not going to be a sidewalk queen but we want to do the best job we can. Starting to sand now in hopes that late July we are ready to paint. Thanks for all your help as you've always been a wealth of information.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I would search the local salvage yards or youpullits. I have a stock hood on my Mule. It came complete with hood ornament for $40. US. Last time I bought hoods new in box surplus they were $100. A great deal. I still have 2 new GM hoods in the box. I bought these at a dealer that had them in old stock. He was a state truck repair dealer so he had them. but for me fixing the current hood would be the way to go. If it opens and closes and keeps the engine dry in a rain storm. It works as designed. If it is rusty anywhere toss it steel scrap is up to $7. per 100 now.
 

kkcshipp

Member
130
-1
16
Location
Elizabethtown, KY
Trying to revive after a long wait. We've been busy and now my son is at the University of Kentucky as a freshman. Ordered rocker panels, seam sealer, rear light covers, new side markers, metal bonding glue, and RAPCO paint.

image.jpgimage.jpg
 

kkcshipp

Member
130
-1
16
Location
Elizabethtown, KY
So my son and I have been sanding the big guy down but today I started cutting out the rusted areas. Plan is to not take out the rockers completely but to use the remaining good steel in the rockers and glue the new rockers over top of the old using the bonding glue, sheet metal screws and seam sealer. I will treat all rust with preventer and sealer gel and then paint before glue. Here is my first chop job before the rain came.

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

kkcshipp

Member
130
-1
16
Location
Elizabethtown, KY
Rust on the rockers were not near as bad as I thought. I got a 12inch sheet metal strip from Lowes I will use to patch those two spots in the rear. Gonna cut shimmey in from the bottom then Use glue, screws and seam seal it. I will then clean, and spray some undercoat underneath.
 

kkcshipp

Member
130
-1
16
Location
Elizabethtown, KY
Two rear interior repairs underway after rust proofing. I will add either self tapping screws or rivets before I seam seal , fill and paint. Used some stock steel from Lowes. Right one was tricky little booger.

image.jpgimage.jpg
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Shame I have a few pieces of the floor that would match better. I saved a few M1009 floors just for the patch work. Even the 1974 I just scrapped had a decent donor rear floor on it. I saved it. The self tapping screws they use on metal dry wall framing are the ticket. Or the big # 11 pop rivets. Looks ok from here. A little Rusto-leum Rust reformer and some green camouflage Krylon and you will be set. Good Luck.
 

kkcshipp

Member
130
-1
16
Location
Elizabethtown, KY
Yes sir, I found a couple CUCV bodies lying around on Ft. Knox but can't touch them. Nazi's here won't even put them in DRMO so I can get the "small parts" from them. I thought about the self tapping screws but for this application I think I'm going to use the pop rivets as you indicated. Rust proof it, paint it and move on to bigger things. When I do the rocker panels though I'll have to use self-tapping screws until I get to final fit. Got to get by the pull it place and look for the cover to the fuel filler neck there in the back as the one I currently have is full of rust. Thanks for your comments as they always mean a lot.
 

kkcshipp

Member
130
-1
16
Location
Elizabethtown, KY
Negative, I've seen your Terminus fabricated box structure. Do you have a different design? Because I was going that direction if I can't get a PVC pipe I could fab up. Rocker panels take over tonight's work.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I can send you one. And yes it was a scrap part I found a box of them. I am looking at scrap constantly. Many ideas. So many parts and ideas. Not enough time to complete them all. PM me we can discuss. These covers are direct fit style.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF7650.jpgDSCF7651.jpgDSCF7652.jpgDSCF7653.jpgCheck out my twin turbo air intakes on the Crown of Thorns. I know you know what they are. I always have a funny guy at my place that makes things less boring. If operational forcing air into the engine these will add hundreds of horsepower to the 6.2 with the twin turbo system. And then again maybe NOT. Nice interior M1009 gas fill covers by Romco.

AS SEEN ON TV.
 
Last edited:
Top