Need advice on 8.3 engine repair

[red]

If cost is a concern then consider swapping in a NHC250 from the non a2 trucks. Running take outs go for 1k or less. Not starting a debate about the differences of each motor just stating a option.


Another option would be to find a welder in your area who can weld cast iron and see what they would charge to fix the block.

 

[brazengoat06]

I appreciate all the opinions. If I can patch this engine and make it last long enough for moving around the shop and short drives that way I can buy a bare block and have time to build it

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Another option...

https://youtu.be/Pq0wfU4ZaKk

 

[simp5782]

There are 855s in the can going on GLiq right now. taylortradingco on here has a takeout 8.3

 

[WillWagner]

That thing is junk, I wouldn't waste my time with it, first time it gets a little heat in it you will have coolant in the oil. Put it on a shelf until you can do things correctlt

 

[98G]

If you're going to give it a transplant, consider other option besides the 8.3 and NH250.

A big cam Cummins comes to mind...

I'd pronounce that 8.3 dead.

Did you talk to silverstate55 about a block?

 

[Lukes_deuce]

Not that I want to beat a dead horse, but that block is toast. Even if you drill the crack on the inside, it would be very hard to weld. Plus I feel like the casting for the head bolt is going to crack once you put some torque on the head bolt. One crack and maybe get away with it, but multiple cracks on both sides of a cylinder and its finished. Time for an upgrade! Ive seen good shape big cams go for 2500 to 3000 around here. You could most likely find one for cheaper out of the Northeast.

 

[Jbulach]

I think if you run this block you will need more than a replacement block when all is said and done. I agree that it's going to split in half and will cause all types of destruction.


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[brazengoat06]

you all arent much fun when it comes to experiments are you

yes i found a bare block but to build it would cost the same as a complete motor. i really wanna keep it simple and go with a stock replacement

 

[74M35A2]

I actually want to see this now. Jamb it together, leave the radiator cap loose one click, and run it!

 

[Jbulach]

Oh, I love experiments! I just think your cracking is way to extensive to mess with...


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[Jbulach]

I actually want to see this now. Jamb it together, leave the radiator cap loose one click, and run it!

Yep, in Oklahoma should be able to run straight water. Put a petcock on the drain plug and drain the water off the bottom of the pan every morning before you fire it.
Then crank up the fuel, add more boost and get the party started right.

 

[Jbulach]

Wasn't somebody here using bare blocks for coffee tables a while back? Hopefully a reasonable source somewhere. Although a 400 re-power would be awful nice for motivating a M934...

 

[brazengoat06]

yes finally some support

 

[74M35A2]

The heavy duty engines (855) require a different doghouse, and probably a few other such mods. Should be no big if you go that way but I don't think you are. The $1900 8.3L eBay bus was listed 3 times with no bidder so far, they will take less, but you will have to throw them more cash to pull the engine for you I'm guessing. Next best is an 8.3L powered genset for $2500 also on the site. That may have the "good" injection pump on it (P-7100)? Forgot how much guys here wanted for a block.

10-4 on using water for a while, it will save your crank/cam if it gets in the oil. I have rebuilt plenty of engines with heavy water contamination in the oil, and as long as there is at least a small amount of oil in the water, the bearings and journals were fine. Opposite with antifreeze. Once the coolant level reaches the oil pickup tube, bearings are done.

 

[brazengoat06]

found a bare block for 500. saw the genset but not the bus. i like the idea of the bus cause i can scrap it for at least 1000 if not more.

 

[Jbulach]

...Next best is an 8.3L powered genset for $2500 also on the site. That may have the "good" injection pump on it (P-7100)?....

Are there any differences on the stationary motors due to they only typically run at the same RPM?

 

[74M35A2]

Just the governor on the back of the injection pump. You can swap governors, or the entire pump assembly, to restore variable speed operation for road use.

Bus ad sent via PM.

 

[Lukes_deuce]

Just the governor on the back of the injection pump. You can swap governors, or the entire pump assembly, to restore variable speed operation for road use.

Bus ad sent via PM.

Just a word to the wise, if you do go with the genset route, I would make sure you get the numbers of the injection pump. Most of the time, stationary units use different units with different delivery valves and injectors. I am not an expert but have seen all sorts of differences between on road and stationary. You do have a donor motor so that takes care of the parts but it wont be a 100% plug and play from a genset.

 

[98G]

Wasn't somebody here using bare blocks for coffee tables a while back? Hopefully a reasonable source somewhere. Although a 400 re-power would be awful nice for motivating a M934...

I was using bare blocks for a welding table. That was after I practically begged people to take them.