need electrical help with m1009 alternators

[dunedigger]

I just bought a M1009 blazer last weekend. It ran perfect, on the way home one of the alternators quit working. I ordered two of them so not to worry about the second one going out soon from Napa. I left the wires lay and waited a few days for them to show. So I put them in tonight and got a real bad arc flash from the battery cables and the capacitor on the firewall burnt up. I assumed I hooked a wire up wrong so what I have on the drivers side is a heavy red wire I hooked to the "bat" on the alternator and then a ground to the engine and a smaller black wire on the other terminal and a small black plug in wire on the iso ground. I assume there is no way this side is the problem. On the drivers side I unhooked my wires and the one I had on the negative of the alternator has continuity to the positive terminal block on the firewall. So I assumed I just mixed up both red wires when I hooked it up. Then I was thining maybe both red wires were suposed to go to the "alt" location on the alternator. I tried that and switching the reds and either way I still get a really bad arc flash when hooking up the batteries. Any advice would be great, Thanks

 

[319]

Check Appendix F, illustration F-9 (page F-11) in TM 9-2320-289-20 located here in the Resource section.

 

[EO2NMCB]

When you ordered your alt's from napa, are they the isolated ground alt's? If not that would explain your fireworks under the hood.

 

[dunedigger]

So, when I blew the post in the positive terminal block on the firewall and melted the capacitor I double checked my wires and I had the two 8 red wires flip floped. So when I corrected them and everything is the way the manual shows, the Jbox by the master cylinder where the two alts connect together started a fireworks show. I am so bummed about this. I was wondering maybe I burnt up something when I had the wires crossed and is now shorted out. I did not ask for a iso alt, I just asked for what I brought in. So maybe my problem is the alternaors themselves now?

 

[dunedigger]

The more I search the threads in search I am almost certian it's my alternator is not likely and iso ground. I hope I didn't burn up the fusible links.

 

[dunedigger]

Going to the parts store tonight. They tell me they are specifically for a cucv and that I must be hooking them up wrong but both of them have continuity between the negative stud and the case. That can't be right. What a mess.

 

[Michael]

Did you read this thread?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=16261&highlight=alternator+NAPA

The link I gave to NAPA online in the old thread is dead. I doubt that you bought two of them though, they were very expensive, two to three hundred each if I remember correctly.

 

[dunedigger]

Did you read this thread?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=16261&highlight=alternator+NAPA

The link I gave to NAPA online in the old thread is dead. I doubt that you bought two of them though, they were very expensive, two to three hundred each if I remember correctly.

I did buy both of them. I get a real good deal at Napa and they sold them to me for 165 each. My idea was being everything our local Napa sells is full lifetime guarentee I would never have to fix or by them again. This is typically what I do with parts so it's a one shot fee. This time it backfired on me, the negative terminal on the alts are grounded to the case, now I have damage to the truck and the company that sells them to Napa are saying they are isolated grounds and specific to these trucks. So, now I am in the process of waiting for them to figure out what is going on. I managed to stop them from shipping my cores out so I am waiting for them to recall the company tomorrow after I pysically showed Napa what the problem is with my meter.

 

[Michael]

I found the correct link for NAPA on line on the old site. It got shortened in the transfer.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...77&Description=Alternator+-+Remfd+-+H/D+Truck

Alternator - Remfd





Click on image to see enlarged view
Item#: WIL90014277

Price: $219.00 Core: $27.78

tax and shipping not included

Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.

Attributes:
O.E. Manufacturerelco Remy
Series:27SI
Voltage:12 Volt
Amp Rating:100 Amp
Polarity:Insulated
Clock Position:1:00
Type of Pulleyulley Not Included
Type of Regulator:Internal

 

[beaubeau]

The amount of money spent on Alt. You should have bought a 12volt starter{$153.00} and converted to 12 volt. I did 2 and much simpler to work with. Phil

 

[dunedigger]

I thought about converting to 12v but for some stupid reason I thought it would be cool to keep it the way it is. That link to the Napa part is exactly what I got, they say isolated but when you check between the negative and the case they are connected as I said before. I hope the next ones are ok.

 

[gt1009]

I think it's a bad alternator. I bought one from NAPA once, had the same kind of problem and needed another week for the alt to come in.

 

[Bobert]

I had to have a place in town rebuild mine. It was about $150 I think. We got one off ebay too for about $90.

 

[devilman96]

The amount of money spent on Alt. You should have bought a 12volt starter{$153.00} and converted to 12 volt. I did 2 and much simpler to work with. Phil

IMHO... That is the absolute WORST thing anyone can do to a CUCV... How many hundreds of postings are there about "I converted my truck to 12V and now its broke and no one can help me fit it" ... leave well enough alone.

These systems are SO SIMPLE to work on... All one needs to do is pick up a TM and read before wrenching!

 

[CCATLETT1984]

instead of returning the alternators, take them to an GOOD alternator shop and just have them put the fiber washers in to isolate the grounds.

FYI the drivers side alt does NOT need to be an isolated ground, but the passenger side ABSOLUTELY MUST!!!!

 

[dunedigger]

Ok, the third and fourth brand new alternators came in from Wilson. They are telling me I hooked it up wrong and they have isolated alternators. When you check continuity to the case and negative stud you have it. When they are bench tested at the store they have a 12 v output between the positive and the case. How could that posibly be isolated? My old one that works does not do this. So I returned one new one and put the other new one on my drivers side and my old one that works but is noisy on the drivers side. My truck is up and running. Alt light 2 is out but now the alt light one is on dim. I think this is because the third brown wire with a push on connection, the connector is messed up and doesn't feel like it will snap on. I am assuming at this point that goes to the gauge? I'll have to check the schematic again. Does anyone have one of those push on connectors they could cut off? I'll buy it from you with enough wire to solder on to the old wire. At least it is up and running as long as the old alt holds out. I kept the other core to get it rebuilt.

 

[Michael]

I think you can buy new plugs at the parts store. They are the same as on most civi GM cars and trucks.

 

[mangus580]

If they are measuring 12v output, with respect to the case as ground, the are NOT isolated.

 

[dunedigger]

If they are measuring 12v output, with respect to the case as ground, the are NOT isolated.

Try telling a huge alternator reman company named Wilson and all of their reps and techs that. To them, I am still hooking it up wrong. It works just fine with my original working alt on the pass side. I now have their number to talk to them directly. Something needs to be done, how many people should this happen to.

 

[dunedigger]

I called these guys direct today. They are more understanding without the parts store in the middle of this mess. A rep is taking 5 of their in stock alts to a rebuilder for inspection. I will get a call tomorrow to see what he finds out is wrong with them. They say they are going to help me out. Time will tell.