need electrical help with m1009 alternators

[dunedigger]

Wilson's tech guy took apart 4 of their in stock alts and told me they found they used all steel bolts where they were suposed to use insulated bolts. The set two asside with my name on it. Should be in soon. I originally told them I didn't want them back I just didn't want this to happen to someone else too. They had 25 in stock ready to ship out not isolated but listed for it.

 

[EO2NMCB]

Glad they got it all worked out for you.

 

[dunedigger]

Seems like this problem will never end. I used the one non isolated alternator on the drivers side to get it running and the gen 1 light came on and after some miles my front battery died again. Now the new alts came in that are isolated and the gen 1 light is off, my lights are brighter and everything seems good. However now my gen 2 light is on bright. Sigh. I noticed when my voltage drops in the battery and I had to get home the heater/exciter power fuse starts to melt. I'm not sure yet but I don't think this happens when the battery is up. Now I have to figure out why the gen 2 light is on, not sure if that alt is working. What ever happened to stuff working. I bought a new battery charger last month. Went to charge my battery last night and the indicater needle was broke. They exchanged it for me but I am not having any luck with this truck.

 

[BobM]

They exchanged it for me but I am not having any luck with this truck.

But realize it isn't the truck's fault. It was a mistake in a factory.
BTW: Did you get this finally fixed? If so, what was it? Enquiring minds want to know......

 

[dunedigger]

The new alternators from Wilson are in the truck and charging the batteries but my gen 2 light is on now. It seems to be an alternator issue still making the light come on. I took it in to get bench tested and they say it's fine. I put my old alt in and have no light. For now, at least it is running. I plan on swapping the drivers and pass alts to see if the gen light 1 comes on and 2 goes out. If that happens I will be ordering another one. I need the lifetime warrenty just to get a good one, lol.

 

[BobM]

The new alternators from Wilson are in the truck and charging the batteries but my gen 2 light is on now. It seems to be an alternator issue still making the light come on. I took it in to get bench tested and they say it's fine. I put my old alt in and have no light. For now, at least it is running. I plan on swapping the drivers and pass alts to see if the gen light 1 comes on and 2 goes out. If that happens I will be ordering another one. I need the lifetime warrenty just to get a good one, lol.

Man, I feel your pain. I had a 9C1 Caprice (ex-cop car) that I went thru 3 alternators before I got a good one! But, when I got it all sorted out, that was one fantastic car! Good luck on yours.
My Gen 1 light comes on with lights and heater on. I put in a new blower motor(it was dragging and squealing) and put on new alt belts (they were shiny and cracked). If I can get some time (working 12 hr days and Saturdays) I want to check the ground wires and all connections.

 

[wlcharm]

What Luck.
I hope things get better.
Right now I have both Gen light on real dim. I have a junk-V so I took both of the Alt. and got them rebuilt for $145 and will put them on next weekend.

 

[Hotwire]

you get it fixed yet? i can look at mine and tell you how its wired up

 

[davesbf]

i also agree changing to 12 volt for cucv is a good choice,have saved a lot of grief for future problems by eliminating the need for a split 24/12 volt system.unless you want to run radios 24 volt.can you imagine the battery drain while your glow plugs are running current through that huge resistor block?

 

[davesbf]

I had alt.light soft glowing then went out when engine sped up,found out sometimes a larger pulley was put on slowing revs of alternator,at 13.5 volts the alternator glowed,but should still keep battery charged

 

[BobM]

I just worked on the 1008's driver side alt. It had an old ground wire that was broken and had an add-on wire on it that went to the one of the intake bolts. This wire was about a #10 wire. It broke as I attempted to remove it. Of course I didn't have an eyelet that big in my electrical stuff.
Did I mention we have about 2" of slick wet snow? Well I slid to the nearest(note I didn't say best) NAPA and finally got an eyelet that would work. I wanted a new wire, but this bunch is hobbled by computers. They couldn't even find the eyelets without looking them up on the 'puter.
I cleaned up the bolts/nuts and put it back on. I backed the 08 out of the garage and turned on all the lights and the heater blower on high. No light. Now we will take it to work and see how it does. It'll probably do fine, since it has almost stopped snowing!

 

[devilman96]

Not to bust chops or self promote but... Sometimes it pays to buy alternators from guys that know the trucks your working on...

Just guessing but had I shipped you those you probably would have paid less (even with the shipping) and gotten the right ones the first time...

 

[dunedigger]

Not to bust chops or self promote but... Sometimes it pays to buy alternators from guys that know the trucks your working on...

Just guessing but had I shipped you those you probably would have paid less (even with the shipping) and gotten the right ones the first time...

I didn't find the site until searching for answers to my problem. Our local Napa has a lifetime gaurentee on everything they sell. And for some credit I did get the right alternators, it was the disgrutled workers at Wilson that made me pay for them being upset at their bosses. Makes sense to me, not. I always liked the fact of buying from Napa will be the last time I pay for that part and if it fails I could take it back. I learned a good lesson from this.

 

[roberbert101]

Dont let napa check the iso alt's some of those guys dont know what an iso alt is, and they can ruin them, here is the instructions to convert to 12v but my advice is DONT DO IT, but they have the correct wiring of the alt's for each side and the junction blocks and such, if your in doubt, i did the unspeakable and converted my 1009 i wouldent do it agian, but if you need some more help holler,

 

[BobM]

I just worked on the 1008's driver side alt. It had an old ground wire that was broken and had an add-on wire on it that went to the one of the intake bolts. This wire was about a #10 wire. It broke as I attempted to remove it. Of course I didn't have an eyelet that big in my electrical stuff.
Did I mention we have about 2" of slick wet snow? Well I slid to the nearest(note I didn't say best) NAPA and finally got an eyelet that would work. I wanted a new wire, but this bunch is hobbled by computers. They couldn't even find the eyelets without looking them up on the 'puter.
I cleaned up the bolts/nuts and put it back on. I backed the 08 out of the garage and turned on all the lights and the heater blower on high. No light. Now we will take it to work and see how it does. It'll probably do fine, since it has almost stopped snowing!

Well that was fun.....NOT!
My Gen 1 light did not come on at all. But as I was coming home in the snow and cold, my headlights kept getting dimmer and dimmer. Yep. The front batt was dead on arrival home. I cleaned up the red wire on the alt and now the light comes back on. ( I charged the front batt up with the cables off) Now the gen 1 light comes on with the lights and heater blower both on. Turn one off and it goes out. My little cheap multi meter shows about 11 volts at the batt. after recharge. I checked my other two chevy trucks that have new batts this year in them, and they also read 11 volts so my meter may be a little slow. Anyways, while running both with lights and blower on and with both off, the red wire and the batt show 10 volts to 12 volts.
I guess I should start my own thread and not hijack this one.;

 

[Mark5y9m]

These are the cross references for the K5 Blazer M1009 Alternators AC DELCO	321-744
ACE TRI-STAR	CA7847N
ALLTECH	304-7847
ANDRE NIERMANN	25500
BBB INDUSTRIES	7847
BOSTON AUTO	3240-245
COSMOS	2172372
DELCO REMY(ENG'R)	1105500
DELCO REMY(ENG'R)	10459234
DIXIE	A-1586
DNS	A07847
LESTER	7847
MET	MET-A7847
PIC	240-245
ROAD FORCE	RF319067960
ROMAINE ELECTRIC	36-7847
ROMAINE ELECTRIC	7847N
ROTEX	7847
SPIDER MARINE	A7847
TSA	7847N
WHATCOM	46419
ZORKOS	7847

 

[Warthog]

Thanks for listing the part numbers.

I just checked and most of the part numbers reference the Wilson rebuilds. There is a known issue with the Wilson units as many have not been rebuilt correctly and cause shorting of the electrical system. The cause is that they have not been rebuilt as "isolated ground" units.

So if you buy a Wilson rebuild, make sure that it is indeed an 'isolated ground" unit.

 

[Mark5y9m]

I will be sure to do that, I also found the NATIONAL STOCKING (NSN) 2920-01-149-8606

 

[cucvrus]

Save yourself all that hassle. Just take the old ones to reputable alternator/starter shop and have them rebuilt. It costs a fraction of the cost of new ones and most people I work with will stand behind the work they do. Or I don't work with them. Also a good electric shop will only replace what needs replaced and not bone you in the process. They can also put together a spare set of CUCV alternators out of an inexpensive set of civilian alternators. I have repurposed tons of used parts in my life. I try to shy away from used parts that are know to fail unless I have them gone over/rebuilt before I reuse them. Just an idea. Buy up all the old core starters and alternaors you see for CUCV's.