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Need help with unidentified noise please.

edpdx

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Updated. I used a MAPP torch on the cap and trunion of the u-joint. The plastic softened and oozed out like a snake. My problem was that the inner C-rings were still in place. :doh:

After I pulled them free, everything went smooth. I had the driveline back in the truck in five minutes. 41 degrees on a damp gravel driveway with wind. brrr.

Thanks for all the help.
 

JUNKYARDJOHN

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A ball joint/universal press is a fantastic tool. They look like a big super heavy duty c-clamp. Even an el-cheapo harbor-freight chineeze one will work great. Put an impact wrench on it, & I've yet to find one that won't come loose. Years ago, I was beating one out with a 3 lb. sledge & a socket... well.. I completely missed the socket & hit my thumb squarely, squrshed it like a grape. (I had a stroke about 21 years ago, & now I'm left handed. Try swinging a hammer with your wrong hand.rofl) I spent the rest of that summer with a crippled digit. The first thing I did after that was to buy a press kit. It was well worth the 30 or 40 bucks it cost me. I've gotten carried away while trying to seat (or center ) new u-joints & drove the u-joint right thru the cap. Busted the bottom right out of it. So don't feel silly about missing the inside clips. If you can learn a lesson without smashing a thumb.... shoot.. that's great.[thumbzup]
 

m16ty

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I have had to open the yoke back up some after a tough joint pressing out. Just for clarification, they aren't made of cast iron as mentioned earlier in the thread, they are forged steel.

I find it best to just cut the cross out with a torch when removing the old joint. Then all you have to do is push each cap out individually which seems to work better than pressing them both at the same time.
 

scottladdy

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From the 1984 Chevy Light Duty Trucks Service Manual

Injected Plastic Type
Disassembly

NOTICE: Never clamp drive shaft tubing in a vise as the tube may be dented. Always clamp on one of the yokes, and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the seal lip.

1 . Support the drive shaft in a horizontal position in line with the base plate of a press. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the shaft yoke is supported on a 28.57 mm (1 -1 /8 " ) socket. Place the cross press, J-9522-3, on the open horizontal bearing cups, and press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear as shown in Fig. 14. This will shear the plastic retaining the lower bearing cup.

J-9522-3.jpg
 

edpdx

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Oregon
Still getting vibration. The noise issue cleared up, but I may have installed the shaft 180 degrees out. Would that do it?O

therwise I did bend the yoke ear a smidge- which will be a rebalance.

Q: Could I get one from a standard wrecking yard K5?
 

cucvrus

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Just a question. Did you put the snap rings on the caps that went to the differential yoke? On the M1009 that is what holds the u-joint centered in the differential yoke.
 

edpdx

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:doh: Don't tell me that now. I didn't think it mattered. I put the inside snap rings both on the driveline, but because the caps are held in place with the strap at the differntial, I didn't see the point of installing the snap rings on the remaining caps that nest in the differential yoke.

Are we talking about the same thing?

If so, I just put about 80 miles on that set of u-joints. Should I pull them and get new ones, or do you think they'd be ok if I just add the rings now?
 

doghead

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Just a question. Did you put the snap rings on the caps that went to the differential yoke? On the M1009 that is what holds the u-joint centered in the differential yoke.

The TM only shows 2 retaining rings used on the rear yoke(shaft caps).

Are you sure the yoke does not have the little tabs that center the u joint?

From the TM(-20)

Rear universal joint (7) uses 2 bearing rings (5). Front universal joint (8)
uses 4 bearing rings (2).
Am I the only one who used the TM for this repair?
 
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cucvrus

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M1009 rear u joint with clips to center u-joint in rear axle yoke.

009.jpgAll the M1009's that I worked on need the snap rings to center the rear u-joint. I have been down this road with other people rigs before. They spend money changing rears and having pinion bearings replaced and that was all it was all along. I hope it is that easy for you. Put them on no harm done to the new u-joint unless it flew apart.
 
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edpdx

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home M1009.jpg I'll try it in the morning. rain, rain, rain.

How does it provide centering? I'm not seeing it- I see the rings, just don't get what/how they do it.
 
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cucvrus

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The rear diferential yoke has slots that the snap rings fit into. That is off the top of my head. I don't have one in front of me to take a picture for you. Maybe this evening I can post you a picture. But I know they have to be there. Read the TM. It says they do. Good Luck. It's not raining under your M1009. Happy Holidays.
 

edpdx

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CUCVRUS, thanks for straightening me our (pun intended). I added the two rings in this morning- surprisingly it was not raining under my M1009. Just got back from some shopping- big diff. All feels and sounds well.

I'll have to tell Doghead, I don't think he reads the TM. SEGOF.
 
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cucvrus

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Did you see how the clips centered the u joint on the yoke? Your not the first one. I had a friend buy a crate axle and change it. I came to help him and he had the driveshaft off when I got there. I stayed till the end. When he handed me the driveshaft I ask him where the clips were. He said what clips. I went in the shop they were laying in the trash with the new u-joint box from 2 weeks earlier. I said these clips. He about fell over. That was the whole problem and he had just put a pinion bearing in it the week before and still had the rubble. Live and learn. Happy Holidays. I am glad I could help out. Thank you.
 

73m819

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Need help with unidentified noise please.

If you still have not found the noise, you could be dragging the chain.
 

doghead

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Indeed it is full of good stuff.

Even I learned something!

Thanks
 
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