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Need M1083 mechanic in Middle TN Area NASHVILLE? MURFREESBORO?

coachgeo

coachgeo

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search " excitate wire " and/or " excitation wire " common issue if this is an A0 for that wire to not be feeding 12v to the alternator thus it does not know to kick on/excite the alternator
 
T

TNTV

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Murfreesboro TN
Well guys, its been a little over 3 years since I have bought this LMTV and Ive only drove it 30 min right after I bought it. If anyone knows a mobile mechanic in the middle TN area that is familiar with the LMTV i would really appreciate it. At this point I really just want to climb inside the cab and set it on fire, but I figured I would give it one last try. I really dont think its anything difficult but I really am not a mechanic. I know everyone here is super helpful and can walk me through hours and hours of diagnosis but I am not in any way a mechanic and REALLY just want to pay someone, At this point ive spent more on having people come and look at it than I paid for it in the first place so I am already really deep in it and pot committed. So please if anyone knows anyone please help..... I am in Murfreesboro TN just 20 min south of Nashville. Thanks!
 
chucky

chucky

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Rule no . 1 dont sweat the little sheat Rule no.2 Its all little sheat !!!!! You own a fmtv so by proxy you ARE going to become a some what mechanic so embrace the horror and get your tools togeather . First take your phone and take pictures of your battery cables where they all attach and start with the 2 batteries closest to you which are your 12 volt batteries take your cables off and charge each battery up individually if you doesnt take a charge watch the film clips on youtube on how to rejuveinate a agm battery it worked for me . Once youve charged all the batterys and got your cables back on in the right places you need to turn your dash switch on with cab jacked up a get a ladder and try to start the engine if it just turns over without starting pump your rubber ball on your fuel pump to make sure its hard to push so u know its got fuel then take your meter and take some readings at your fuel cylinoid before numbers and while you have someone else turn the engine over and see if it drops out on your meter when they try it . For a while when i first got my 1083 and didnt know anything about it i would run a heavy wire jumper from my24 volt side of my batterys to the fuel solenoid and thats the only way it would fire up and run it seemed to be really sensitive to 23 or above volts or it wouldnt let the fuel past the solenoid so try that and one other thing straight above the transmission is a either bottle looks like a propane torch cylinder right below it is whats called a power distribution device pdd all the battery cables meet at this box and i bet yours has never been cleaned up if not be easy but spay some kind of penitrating oil on the studs for a day or 2 then gently try to break each nut loose without breaking the stud off and again take pictures and do 1 stud at a time sand paper the battery lugs real good on both sides and put it all back like you found it .So many electrical problem trace back to that box at least on my truck . So try that to get started and let us know what happend.
 
Last edited:
T

TNTV

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Murfreesboro TN
rockDAWG said:
It has been so long ago. Can you have it towed to a diesel shop near you?
Click to expand...
Sure if I could find a diesel shop that specialized in the LMTV. Ive spent around 5k on random diesel mechanics coming out and "trouble shooting" the truck. Basically I feel like the issue is pretty simple and if I could actually find someone that has messed with these specific vehicle before they could figure it out pretty quickly. Ive just spent sooo much already I would hate to spend 500 towing it someone to let them run me around and tell me the same crap. Ive heard its the fuel pump, the fuel rail, the fuses, a solenoid, the batteries, valves, blowed up, reset switch, etc. etc. And at every turn its another 500-1000 bucks for more parts, etc. I know everyone is super helpful and can talk me through stuff but I am just not a mechanic and by myself I will just mess stuff up worse. I would pay nearly anything for someone to just come here, diagnose, and fix. I have been so frustrated with this cycle i have given up on it at least 10 times. One of the reasons has just sat for 3 years in my SMALL driveway.....
 
Reworked LMTV

Reworked LMTV

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TNTV said:
Sure if I could find a diesel shop that specialized in the LMTV. Ive spent around 5k on random diesel mechanics coming out and "trouble shooting" the truck. Basically I feel like the issue is pretty simple and if I could actually find someone that has messed with these specific vehicle before they could figure it out pretty quickly. Ive just spent sooo much already I would hate to spend 500 towing it someone to let them run me around and tell me the same crap. Ive heard its the fuel pump, the fuel rail, the fuses, a solenoid, the batteries, valves, blowed up, reset switch, etc. etc. And at every turn its another 500-1000 bucks for more parts, etc. I know everyone is super helpful and can talk me through stuff but I am just not a mechanic and by myself I will just mess stuff up worse. I would pay nearly anything for someone to just come here, diagnose, and fix. I have been so frustrated with this cycle i have given up on it at least 10 times. One of the reasons has just sat for 3 years in my SMALL driveway.....
Click to expand...
Based on your posts, unless you become wealthy, you best buy a different type of vehicle. Yes they are really cool, but these are not for the faint of heart. Most of us have mechanical ability, patience, and actually improve upon them when we fix the original design flaws. It's not that you can't get someone to fix you electrical issue, but but because of their age, something else will likely sideline you. Rule of thumb with these is if it is rubber or plastic, you will be replacing it sometime soon.
 
chucky

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,532
18,726
113
Location
TN .
chucky said:
Rule no . 1 dont sweat the little sheat Rule no.2 Its all little sheat !!!!! You own a fmtv so by proxy you ARE going to become a some what mechanic so embrace the horror and get your tools togeather . First take your phone and take pictures of your battery cables where they all attach and start with the 2 batteries closest to you which are your 12 volt batteries take your cables off and charge each battery up individually if you doesnt take a charge watch the film clips on youtube on how to rejuveinate a agm battery it worked for me . Once youve charged all the batterys and got your cables back on in the right places you need to turn your dash switch on with cab jacked up a get a ladder and try to start the engine if it just turns over without starting pump your rubber ball on your fuel pump to make sure its hard to push so u know its got fuel then take your meter and take some readings at your fuel cylinoid before numbers and while you have someone else turn the engine over and see if it drops out on your meter when they try it . For a while when i first got my 1083 and didnt know anything about it i would run a heavy wire jumper from my24 volt side of my batterys to the fuel cylinoid and thats the only way it would fire up and run it seemed to be really sensitive to 23 or above volts or it wouldnt let the fuel past the cylinoid so try that and one other thing straight above the transmission is a either bottle looks like a propane torch cylinder right below it is whats called a power distribution device pdd all the battery cables meet at this box and i bet yours has never been cleaned up if not be easy but spay some kind of penitrating oil on the studs for a day or 2 then gently try to break each nut loose without breaking the stud off and again take pictures and do 1 stud at a time sand paper the battery lugs real good on both sides and put it all back like you found it .So many electrical problem trace back to that box at least on my truck . So try that to get started and let us know what happend.
Click to expand...
Also you mentioned in the past that you had checked /replaced relays in your panel on the passenger side dash on the reverse side of that lid is a diagram of the relays and their voltage if you got 12 and 24 put back in wrong spots would cause the cylinoid to drop out if you cant tell which relay is which go to orlieys or you could go to peterbuilt parts and get you a bag of 12v relays and a bag of 24volt relays and label them so you will know which is which in the future and sit down in the passenger seat with your disgram and replace any and all relays dealing with starting /fuel/and make sure the rite voltage relays get in the rite spots
 
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