Need some help with broken generator bracket/manifold bolt

[NormB]

Broken part is #18 on figure 36 or 38 of TM 9-2320-280-24P-1, goes between mounting bracket for 100 or 200A generator, does double duty holding down manifold AND a bracket which, although I have a 60A generator, is there.

Thing snapped off pretty much flush with the head.

I have some experience with such things - volkswagens (an earlier life) for example - using a drill, easy-out (which rarely is), tapping and helicoil installation,

Questions are:

1 - I'm planning on pulling the generator anyway, have a nice new 200A model with peripheral parts, belts, etc which should give me more room to work - getting a drill in there, easy out and tap...

2 - I need to replace the o-ring gasket in the oil dipstick tube where it meets the pan (it drips) which will require yet another manifold bolt be pulled, I'm thinking in for a penny, in for a pound, just pull 'em all so I have that much more room to work without the generator OR manifold in the way, replace as needed with LOTS of nickel-based antiseize compound, new gaskets, button it all up.

3 - I changed the glow plugs a few months back and that SAME cylinder's GP was a BEAR to remove, posted pictures of it. You'd think if there was some blow-by, a head gasket leak there'd be that distinct tappeting sound coming from under the hood somewhere, but I don't hear it. I've owned Nortons, Hondas, BMW motorcycles and one Subaru Outback that had a gasket leaking, the sound in unmistakable, but my hearings a little impaired and the motor's pretty LOUD. Anyone think it's possible this is why the GP was burnt up?

4. Anyone think this isn't "safe" to drive like this?

Any and all relevant feedback, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Norm

 

[79f250guy]

My suggestion would be to remove the whole manifold that way you have Room to work clean up the broken stud if it's rusted and take an over-sized nut say a 1/2" and weld it to the broken stud and back the broken piece out with appopiate wrench for the nut or just a pair of vice grips. It may take a few tries so have a bunch of nuts handy as the weld might not take right away. I do this all the time for the notorious broken studs in 6.0 Chevys and modular Fords works perfectly and you don't have to re-thread anything or worry about drilling crooked for an easy out and the heat from welding helps free up the stud if it's rusted in. Also a bad glow plug should have nothing to do with a blown head gasket as this is an indirect injection engine the glow plug is not in the combustion chamber. Sign of a blown head gasket would be externally leaking coolant, coolant in the oil, white sweet smoke from the tail pipe, possibly oil in the coolant , or maybe low compression. Nothing to do with the glow plug .

 

[NormB]

Thanks. New to diesels, none of those symptoms happening.

Was hoping someone who'd had direct experience with this might chime in.

Stud is broken off at/below face of exhaust ports so welding's not an option, more concerned this will be a bear of a project getting a drill in there to clear out what's left of the stud and to tap the head for helicoil/insert.

Also, if I've been driving it so far (about a hundred miles since I picked it up in October, couple-ten miles on weekends) like this, am I making it worse.

 

[79f250guy]

that's actually the main time i use the welder is when they are flush or below the face. Use a mig welder and hold the nut centered on the the stud and get the wire so you hit the stud first or put a tack weld blob on the face of the stud first then hold the nut with vice grips and go to town welding the nut fill the whole nut with weld. Use a lot of heat and I tend to have better results with 75%25 with er70s it wont stick to the cast head and if it does the weld will just break free and stick only to the stud. Shouldn't be a big deal for the engine but not supporting the generator would be the issue as i could put more strain on the other generator bracket and break one of those bolts or cause excessive vibration with out that bracket that is attached to the broken stud (personal experience)

 

[NormB]

From what I could tell there's no real load-bearing on that bracket, it seems to have been left behind when the 60A alternator was installed.

The bolt is a double-ended stud with a hex nut forged in the middle. Idea is to clamp down the header and use the extension for the bracket.

https://real4wd.com/store/Stud-M10-1.5X3

I know a guy who's a welder and can ask him about the "trick" you described. It might work. Weirder things have happened.

Meanwhile, I know what I'll be doing when I get back from vacation...

 

[TOBASH]

I would try the following first:

Use a Dremmel and cut an "X" on top of the bolt. Then the heat until cherry-red. Then allowed to cool and soak with anti-sieze. Then heat until cherry-red again and repeat the process. Then try to use a flat head or Phillips screwdriver. If you use of Phillips, grind the point flat so you engage the crosshatch created with the Dremmel.

I have used this method with many bolts with some decent success. Frequently pushing on the screwdriver while also twisting it with a vice grips can loosen a bolt.

If that does not work, center a smaller nut and weld/mig/tig fill the hole as described above and then use a vise-grip.

I do not like heli-coil on exhaust manifolds, but others may disagree.

Good luck,

T

 

[snowtrac nome]

I normally weld a washer to said broken bolt, than weld a bolt to the washer, let it cool a bit and screw the broken bolt out. on larger bolts I will center drill all the way through than use the same procedure the hole in the center will allow the fastener shrink more

 

[NormB]

I would try the following first:

Use a Dremmel and cut an "X" on top of the bolt. Then the heat until cherry-red. Then allowed to cool and soak with anti-sieze. Then heat until cherry-red again and repeat the process. Then try to use a flat head or Phillips screwdriver. If you use of Phillips, grind the point flat so you engage the crosshatch created with the Dremmel.
I have used this method with many bolts with some decent success. Frequently pushing on the screwdriver while also twisting it with a vice grips can loosen a boltIf that does not work, center a smaller nut and weld/mig/tig fill the hole as described above and then use a vise-grip.
I do not like heli-coil on exhaust manifolds, but others may disagree.
Good luck,
T

A most excellent idea. I actually have some diamond tip burrs I could get in there to make a good flat-blade groove. Kroil, heat, kroil, heat, I'll get that thing out. After vacation. Heading down to our farm/retirement property in central Tennessee to do some surveying, camping, get a better feel for the place. April wil be here very soon.

I'd like to get this together in time for the Aberdeen Rally.

Thanks.

 

[TOBASH]

A most excellent idea. I actually have some diamond tip burrs I could get in there to make a good flat-blade groove. Kroil, heat, kroil, heat, I'll get that thing out. After vacation. Heading down to our farm/retirement property in central Tennessee to do some surveying, camping, get a better feel for the place. April wil be here very soon.

I'd like to get this together in time for the Aberdeen Rally.

Thanks.

Horse feathers! The only reason to go to Tennessee is sipping whiskey. You best brings some back and share with the class!

Have a nice trip.

 

[NormB]

Horse feathers! The only reason to go to Tennessee is sipping whiskey. You best brings some back and share with the class!

Have a nice trip.

Getting some work done - gates, mending barbed wire fences, perk testing, surveying, on tuesday am, electric co weds am, then back to Maryland. Back in about 3 months to do driveway apron, clear out an acre for 30x50ft steel garage, more down the road.



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