New Aluminum FMTV wheels and tires on flea bay

[patracy]

The attitude needs to be decreased.

 

[Awesomeness]

From the engineering side, it varies a little, but generally if a fastener has threads engaged at least 1.5x the diameter (e.g. 1/2" diameter bolt is engaged >3/4" of threads), the fastener shaft will fail before the threads. Typically, we design to have at least 2 full threads protruding from a nut, so that you don't have unsupported threads right at the end of the clamping force.

In this case, if the lug nuts are thicker and engaging more of the stud thread, but resulting in the end of the stud being inside the head of the nut, it should be fine. If you're engaging less total stud length, that would be suspect. If you're engaging the same amount of stud length, but the end of the stud was inside the nut, that would not be preferable either.

What are the advantages of the aluminum rims? I'm still not completely clear. They are a bit lighter (reducing the rotating mass per tire by what, about 10%?). I've heard they were stronger, but how are we quantifying that? Do they do anything else better (e.g. seal better, use better beadlocks or runflats, etc.)?

 

[DiverDarrell]

I've got these rims I'll install on my truck. These have the advantage of lighter weight, protected ctis, less rust, faster heat dispersion, and don't rust. The drawback is I will have to machine one large nut for each wheel to make the ctis work. Have to figure out how to get air from the hollow stud to the air hole inside the stud hole. Also only going to use them as they came with the tires.

 

[scottmandu]

From the engineering side, it varies a little, but generally if a fastener has threads engaged at least 1.5x the diameter (e.g. 1/2" diameter bolt is engaged >3/4" of threads), the fastener shaft will fail before the threads. Typically, we design to have at least 2 full threads protruding from a nut, so that you don't have unsupported threads right at the end of the clamping force.

In this case, if the lug nuts are thicker and engaging more of the stud thread, but resulting in the end of the stud being inside the head of the nut, it should be fine. If you're engaging less total stud length, that would be suspect. If you're engaging the same amount of stud length, but the end of the stud was inside the nut, that would not be preferable either.

What are the advantages of the aluminum rims? I'm still not completely clear. They are a bit lighter (reducing the rotating mass per tire by what, about 10%?). I've heard they were stronger, but how are we quantifying that? Do they do anything else better (e.g. seal better, use better beadlocks or runflats, etc.)?

Aluminium rims are approx half the weight, they are designed to be more resistant to shock (ie an IED blast), and resistant to ballistic impact than steel wheels.

http://www.hutchinsoninc.com/CMS/index.php?page=military-tactical-wheels

 

[diluted]

Have a few MVs but question not related to them in this case - more the parts.

I bought a set of these wheels to put on a Freightliner FL70 that is going to be used in Fire Mitigation. Noticed they needed the BWP-NSI M-3208 lug nuts which I grabbed. I didn't pay attention that the studs are also different than standard OTR truck studs. Just wanted to make sure I'm not losing my marbles here and I will need to replace studs with something like a:

Rockwell Meritor Stud Wheel Rh P/N: 20X1578Z