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New deuce owner seeking advice

J

Jacob2027

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Southeast alaska
Ok thanks. I read through most all of the TMs a while back but i did skip some spots I didn't feel applied to me. Water fording probably being one of those as I don't recall it. Around here if you get to water you already went through a ton of trees and then down steep banks... There wasn't a lot of oil but will keep an eye on the air tanks. Thank you for the help.
M37M35 said:
Sounds like the previous owner hadn't drained the air tanks like they should have. Both tanks are supposed to be drained every time the truck is driven because of oil and water accumulation, which is normal. A lot of oil could indicate a problem, but you won't know that until you get the truck up and running and drive it for awhile.

Yes. The plug you see is stored in a blank hole and is moved to the open hole before fording deep water. After fording, it's to be removed from the open hole and put back in the blank storage hole.
All the above info is in the TM.
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J

Jacob2027

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Just another update. Finally got the other pump so i can do the full lube service and... Now it is raining like crazy... May just have to crawl around in the mud. Don't have any plywood... Nor would I want to buy a piece just for that.
Got my fuel gauge in so everything is here. Hoping to get her running. Check for major leaks during warm-up. And check oil after for any growth... Oil smells and looks good so at least when it was parked no issues. Will double check while draining. If all looks good will bring her home for wiring and some other seal work.
Need to borrow a short 3/4 inch wrench to check brake fluid. If I have air leaks will probably try to run patches in place. Until I get her home. Only miles or so and will drive slow.
 
cattlerepairman

cattlerepairman

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Just a tip on leaks involving plastic lines - whoever wrenched on the truck may or may not have put the "trumpet" looking brass inserts into the ends of the plastic lines where they go into the compression fittings. If you spot a leak, for example on a fuel supply or return line, be careful just cranking the compression fitting. If there is no insert in the plastic line, tightening the fitting can cause it to cut into the line and make the leak much worse.

Brakes..clean the area around the master before you open the cap; usually full of crud. Ideally, you can make a pressure bleeder and bleed the brakes before your road adventure.

Best of luck and hopefully it all goes well!
 
J

Jacob2027

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So changed the oil today and started her up. Got busy with some jobs. Here is a video of startup. After the vid we added more brake fluid and started her up again. She died after a minute or so though and wouldn't start again. Drained fuel filters and seemed to be mostly water coming out. Tried draining some fluid from the tank but was only draining deisel. Do I am not sure there. Will do more work on her Tuesday.
 
J

Jacob2027

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Southeast alaska
Did the fuel filters today. They where nasty. Looked like cork on the filters dissolved into sludge. Primed each filter with some marvel and fresh deisel. Then after the extra air was purged from each filter she fired up and ran nice again. Ran for 10-15 minutes to warm her up and see if any issues would happen. Nothing so tomorrow will change oil in difs, transmission, and transfer case and then try to drive her home. No brakes so tunning the ebrake... Take her slow and steady. The brake line had a bunch of sawdust packed against it by the air tank and after testing brakes I saw the sawdust dripping. Removed it and there is a fitting behind it that is rusted away.
 
cattlerepairman

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The e-brake is not helping much if the truck is moving faster than walking speed. It will stop the truck e..v..e..n..t...u...a....l....l.......y .
My e-brake is serviced, tight and holds the parked truck strongly. I gave it a try at about 25 mph. It was like I did nothing.
Maybe block off/fold over the brake line where it is broken, bleed the rest and maybe get front or rear wheel brakes working for the drive home?
 
J

Jacob2027

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Location
Southeast alaska
cattlerepairman said:
The e-brake is not helping much if the truck is moving faster than walking speed. It will stop the truck e..v..e..n..t...u...a....l....l.......y .
My e-brake is serviced, tight and holds the parked truck strongly. I gave it a try at about 25 mph. It was like I did nothing.
Maybe block off/fold over the brake line where it is broken, bleed the rest and maybe get front or rear wheel brakes working for the drive home?
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The rear is where the leak is. Looking at the line I don't think it would handle being crimped but I can try. I don't have any plugs for the T section that line comes out of. I am sadly aware of the atopping power of that brake. Luckily I would only have two stops both of with are low speed and the first one is stopping on an uphill. The second is in a 10mph zone with a few houses of flat before it and it is also flat. Planning second low until I am lined up at an idle then after lining up nutraul and coasting/ some park brake use.

Unfortunately they property owners want the truck off of their property today and I have no way to legally tow it home. (All the two trucks on the island stop towing once over 1ton pickup size.) So in a bind.
 
J

Jacob2027

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Southeast alaska
Jacob2027 said:
The rear is where the leak is. Looking at the line I don't think it would handle being crimped but I can try. I don't have any plugs for the T section that line comes out of. I am sadly aware of the atopping power of that brake. Luckily I would only have two stops both of with are low speed and the first one is stopping on an uphill. The second is in a 10mph zone wi
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cattlerepairman said:
Well, it doesn't sound like you are crossing downtown Atlanta! Best of luck!

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
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Lol god no. Small island small towns and my house has a straight shot through with no stop signs. Unfortunately the mill it is on is about 7 miles out of town in the industrial subdivision so one stop sign to enter highway. Will have lead and tail cars with flashers and max speed will be 35. Will us gears to slow down like I would all stick shifts.
 
frank8003

frank8003

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Jacob2027 said:
Once i ger it home I will remove that chunk of line. Order more dot5 because I can't get it on island... And some fittings and replace the line.
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Just plug the line inverse fitting cheap even NAPA used to have them
 

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Jacob2027

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Location
Southeast alaska
M37M35 said:

DEUCE BRAKE LINE REFERENCE GUIDE (Sizes, lengths, fittings)

POST 1~ SINGLE CIRCUIT BRAKE LINES POST 2~ DUAL CIRCUIT BRAKE LINES POST 3~ BRAKE PARTS REFERENCE GUIDE POST 32~ BRAIDED STAINLESS FLEX LINES/HOSES POST 40~ DUAL CIRCUIT MASTER CYLINDER BRACKET INFO & CAD FILE SINGLE CIRCUIT BRAKE LINE INFO I've been selling Stainless Steel Braided Flex hose...
www.steelsoldiers.com
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That guide is awesome. Was actually just looking for that info. I can understand wanting to get away from hardline kits. I was wondering if I could use nylon airbrake line on the brake circuit. Considering dot 5 is non corrisive and non reactive. The pressure shouldn't be above that ove the air master line I wouldn't think. Have you ever tried or considered this?
 
Dipstick

Dipstick

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I had a problem with Brutus my Deuce getting stuck at 1500 rpm when I backed off the throttle. I turned out that the steel pin in the aluminum throttle pedal had gotten tight due to dissimilar metal corrosion and road salt. My throttle return spring could not overcome the pedal friction. I replaced the pedal. Also, I wonder if someone adjusted the hand throttle cable incorrectly. In other words, you've got the hand throttle control all the way in, but the cable is still holding the throttle slightly open.
 
J

Jacob2027

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Location
Southeast alaska
Dipstick said:
I had a problem with Brutus my Deuce getting stuck at 1500 rpm when I backed off the throttle. I turned out that the steel pin in the aluminum throttle pedal had gotten tight due to dissimilar metal corrosion and road salt. My throttle return spring could not overcome the pedal friction. I replaced the pedal. Also, I wonder if someone adjusted the hand throttle cable incorrectly. In other words, you've got the hand throttle control all the way in, but the cable is still holding the throttle slightly open.
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My original issue was the fuel shutoff. I will look into this just in case but after ficing the fuel shut off she runs good. Just drive her 7 or 8 miles home yesterday from the mill she was at. Thanks for your reply. With all the "field" fixes I have heard of I think any issue could arise.
 
Dipstick

Dipstick

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Dipstick said:
I had a problem with Brutus my Deuce getting stuck at 1500 rpm when I backed off the throttle. I turned out that the steel pin in the aluminum throttle pedal had gotten tight due to dissimilar metal corrosion and road salt. My throttle return spring could not overcome the pedal friction. I replaced the pedal. Also, I wonder if someone adjusted the hand throttle cable incorrectly. In other words, you've got the hand throttle control all the way in, but the cable is still holding the throttle slightly open.
Click to expand...
Damn, that was dumb. I thought I was on the "engine running to fast post". Sorry guys.
 
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