New Guy with M35A2C?

[SteveKuhn]

"...I was told by the Tag Office, the only way to get a title for this truck is to file a Declaratory Judgement in small claims court and get a court ordered title...."

I'd look into what's involved to do that, get my required proofs in order, and give it a try. Might be less aggravation than other approaches.

I'd also contact the DMV to see if they can do a title search by VIN. Might be possible. Cops can trace VINs, so maybe you can if it was ever registered.

Steve

 

[Big Ron]

I had a LEO friend of mine do a VIN search and he said it came back "No Data" he said that means that it has never been titled. I gave him the info straight from the dash. I cannot find the VIN # on the frame. I havent sanded any paint yet to find if it is under many many coats of paint yet, I guess that is next.

 

[SteveKuhn]

Be careful with abrasives because mine was so shallow I came dangerously close to sanding it out with 320 paper. I could have easily sanded it off if I didn't catch what was happening immediately I ended up using graffiti remover and a rag to get it. I'd use that or paint remover knowing what I know now. You might get lucky.

 

[Big Ron]

Ok thanks Steve. I'll try some Lacquer Thinner or Paint remover first.

 

[nk14zp]

Is the click you hear the relay or the solenoid?

 

[Big Ron]

From the manuals I have looked at the solinoid is directly on the starter and the starter relay is closer to the block towards the top of the motor. If that is all correct, it is the relay that is making the click, not the solenoid. Sorry for the confusion in the previous post calling the relay the solenoid.

 

[Big Ron]

I was talking to a Diesel mach yesterday, and he stated that since I had to shut it down the way I did "fuel shut-off cable broke, and had to dump clutch to kill motor" that my starter could still be engauged and that is what is causing the starter relay to just "click" and not turn the motor over. That doenst sound right but I thought I would see what everyone else thought.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Recovry4x4]

Take a hammer to the starter. If it's got a flat spot on the armature it may start after a wack or two. If it does start, get it rebuilt.

 

[Big Ron]

Thanks Recovry4X4, I was thinking it was the starter. I just found out the guy that had it before me sunk it motor deep at our local mud hole. I was hopeing it was just gummed up from that and just needed a good cleaning or rebuild. Would it hurt to try and pull the truck off to start it? I think I have a cooling system leak and want to start her up and see if I can trace it. And need to move the truck as well. Got to mow under it.

 

[Recovry4x4]

First thing I would do is try to turn the engine by hand. If the starter is locked in the engaged position, it will become painfullly obvious. If the engine is free, go ahead and bump start it. Since you seem to have a host of problems going on, especially with the shutoff, I would remove the air cleaner bonnet outside the right engine panel and have a decent size piece of wood just incase the engine has a runaway. You can block the airflow with the board to kill it. Silt and sand often kills these starters, I have a dead one from just that sitting on the back of my crane.

 

[hndrsonj]

Remember in addition to the air cleaner mushroom opening that you need to block off to kill the motor, there is a small fording tube opening on the back side of the air cleaner that needs to be blocked also to kill the motor.

 

[Big Ron]

Thanks guys. I will try that next. I think I can shut it off at the pump by just reconnecting the cable but will have the "block off" method ready just in case. To turn it by hand, I just need a pry-bar and socket in the camshaft pully correct?

 

[Big Ron]

What Battrties should I be running? No one at any of my local battery suppliers can tell me what I need. Group 27 or Group 31 maybe? How many CCA per batt? Can having the wrong batteries be causing my problem?

 

[hndrsonj]

6TL's are what origionally were in the truck (interstate/Hawker ETC) Alot of people run Optimas.

 

[Big Ron]

Thanks bud.

 

[Big Ron]

Called my local battery supplier (Battery USA) and the 6TL is $211.95 each. Said he can do a Group 27 (just a little smaller than 6TL) for $70.95 or a Group 31 (Same as 6TL, just Rectangle and not Square like 6TL) for $86.95. Steve6x6x6 is running 2 27's and and said they are doing great. I might try that, and then swith to 6TL later during restoration. He said they have Blim and used batts for $28-30.00 in these two Groups as well. He said I can also hook 4-batts together, and have more power and still be linked for 24v.

 

[hndrsonj]

Blems are the way to go. If you put in 3 sets of batteries, i'd bet that batteries aren't the problem. My truck suddenly did the same thing in May-was starter relay.

 

[Big Ron]

Where did you find a Relay that wasnt over $100+ bucks? I found a used one but it was still $60.

 

[nk14zp]

Did you try bypassing the relay? I have one deuce with group 27s and one with group 31s.

 

[hndrsonj]

Where did you find a Relay that wasnt over $100+ bucks? I found a used one but it was still $60.

Clark trucks had a special in may-25% off. I think it was like 58-59$.