• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

new injectors and fdc bypassed

m715

Member
237
16
18
Location
western ma.
I do not have a pyro yet, until I do any tips to help keep the temps down? I live in hilly country and don't want to melt my pistons out. I would guess on flat land and unloaded temps will be fine. However on hills how fast do temps rise? How quick do they droop to safe levels? Any indication's that its getting to hot ? Just want any advise or suggestions until I get my gauges.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Get gauges, unless your clairvoyant.

The proper steps are, install gauge, then turn up fuel.

Any other choice is a crap shoot.
 

m715

Member
237
16
18
Location
western ma.
I did not turn up my fuel, I bypassed the fuel density compensator. I also installed all new injectors. I can tell the truck runs much better now. I also know bypassing the fdc can have the effect of turning up the fuel, that's why I am saving up for gauges.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,266
3,397
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
Well, you could turn DOWN the fuel two flats to be safe(r).
Also, be conscious of situations where the EGT will go up - low rpm/high load/full boost type of conditions. Don't lug the engine, downshift, dont floor the pedal on long inclines. Keep rpm up over 16-1700 and take it easy.
 

18operator

Well-known member
1,093
1,855
113
Location
Seville, Ohio
Since bypassing the fuel density compensator you have a lot more pedal. It's real easy to get into it and not realize how much fuel is being poured in.
 

m715

Member
237
16
18
Location
western ma.
I made it to the rally and back with no engine problems, and took it easy up hills. I did have transmission problems , I think it got hot from the 3 hour drive. I just changed out the oil before leaving. I did change the gear oil that was in it and replaced with 30 weight motor oil, the store was out of 40 weight. I brought a 5 gallon pail of gear oil with me to the show and changed the tranny oil again before I left for home.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,266
3,397
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
Hm. The tranny should run just fine, even for 20 hours. What kind of problems? Leaking? Difficult shifting? 30W should be fine. It is, however, thin and when I overfill even a tad, my tranny pukes it out over the next month, making a mess.
 

m715

Member
237
16
18
Location
western ma.
I think its a main shaft bering, but it did sound like when the throw-out Bering goes. I will adjust my clutch and remove the trans top cover and inspect inside. The truck has been hard to shift sometimes, but I have a failed knee replacement and its hard for me to push the clutch. I did get a rebuilt transmission at the show for a spare just in case.
 

m715

Member
237
16
18
Location
western ma.
After I let the truck cool for a hour the noise stopped. I just slowed to 45 mph and drove on. I had no oil leaking. The best way to describe the noise is like when lockest bugs start calling starts of low then gets louder and faster. Overall the trip went fine except for a detour due to bridge construction. The truck drove great, and had no shake in the steering and not run hot.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,077
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
After I let the truck cool for a hour the noise stopped. I just slowed to 45 mph and drove on. I had no oil leaking. The best way to describe the noise is like when lockest bugs start calling starts of low then gets louder and faster. Overall the trip went fine except for a detour due to bridge construction. The truck drove great, and had no shake in the steering and not run hot.
A thicker gear oil will help that sound. Floridianson is right. You should run a good 50W gear oil. I once had a 4X4 that sounded like a thrashing machine on the highway. After tearing down the transfer-case several times and finding nothing wrong, I finally ended up running 140W gear oil in it. That quieted it down just fine ! I checked on it later and everything was in great shape. Now of course I would not run this weight of oil in Alaska in the winter !
 

m715

Member
237
16
18
Location
western ma.
After reading lots of posts on oils I wanted to try oil in my tranny to see if it made a difference in shifting. I wanted 40 weight oil but they only had 30 wt. After trying the 30 I think its way thin in warm weather. I will be reading on clutch throw out berring adjustment as I know it needs it. I also am going to adjust my clutch peddle down to the lowest notch so I can get my foot on it better.
 

m715

Member
237
16
18
Location
western ma.
I adjusted the clutch free play today. Also lowered the clutch peddle to the lowest notch, mine is a air force truck. With the floor shifter cover removed I can hear what I think is the tranny input shaft berring making noise. I will add lucas oil until I have time to fix the problem. I don't know how long it will last making noise, but the tranny shifts fine.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks