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yep, I spoke before searcing, found several threads with that suggestion, 32-33
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
new M1009, lots of plans and ideas
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jimm1009
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your M1009
I've been running 33 / 12.50 x 15 tires since 1996 or 97 on my truck that I purchased in late 1995.
It makes a really big difference on the road and I still get 20 MPG highway.
With regards to your replacement engine make sure that you get the code J engine. There are a few code C engines that are the light weight 6.2 and not worth as much due to their lesser strength.
I am not a 6.2 expert but this is from reading and conversing with other guys who do know 6.2 and 6.5 motors.
Good luck with your truck.
I would repack the front hub bearings as soon as practicle and the other obvious fluid changes, etc.
If it is a good base truck then you may get 200,000 miles out of it or like me probably never sell it.
I plan on keeping mine as a daily driver forever. It's a nice universal vehicle - part truck and part car. In other words, room for five or room for two with the seat folded up and forward you can haul 4 x 8 sheets of plywood with the rear glass down and the spare tire removed temporarily.
jimm1009
I've been running 33 / 12.50 x 15 tires since 1996 or 97 on my truck that I purchased in late 1995.
It makes a really big difference on the road and I still get 20 MPG highway.
With regards to your replacement engine make sure that you get the code J engine. There are a few code C engines that are the light weight 6.2 and not worth as much due to their lesser strength.
I am not a 6.2 expert but this is from reading and conversing with other guys who do know 6.2 and 6.5 motors.
Good luck with your truck.
I would repack the front hub bearings as soon as practicle and the other obvious fluid changes, etc.
If it is a good base truck then you may get 200,000 miles out of it or like me probably never sell it.
I plan on keeping mine as a daily driver forever. It's a nice universal vehicle - part truck and part car. In other words, room for five or room for two with the seat folded up and forward you can haul 4 x 8 sheets of plywood with the rear glass down and the spare tire removed temporarily.
jimm1009
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joeypushjr1
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i run 32x11.5x15 on my 1009 and i also have the banks sidewinder kit and i love it you notice the power difference defantly..joe
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well my thoughts are to go 32-33 on it with just a small lift ( 2-4) for now
make sure the rest of the truck gets in good reliable workign order..
Maybe in the future, the humvee 37's taller lift and the banks ( with a regear as well)
lots of good suggestions and pics...
any more suggestions fo ra newbie?
make sure the rest of the truck gets in good reliable workign order..
Maybe in the future, the humvee 37's taller lift and the banks ( with a regear as well)
lots of good suggestions and pics...
any more suggestions fo ra newbie?
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I had 84/85/and 86 GMC 1/2 tons that had 33x12.5x15's on them with the stock suspension, really filled the wheelwells. The only trimming I had to do was approx 1/2" off the outter cabside panel at the bottom, then painted the exposed metal. I really used these trucks and never could get them to bottom out, guess you could depending what you were doing. Then again, I do not believe in lifting for a daily driver, a mudder/sander is a different story.
Would really think about doing a gear swap as these trucks had 3.42 behind a 350 so a 3.08 just wont cut it. I went to 3.73 as this was the tallest gear the pumpkin would take without a carrier change. It really makes a difference in the 'put you back in the seat' and helps with towing a boat, etc.
Would really think about doing a gear swap as these trucks had 3.42 behind a 350 so a 3.08 just wont cut it. I went to 3.73 as this was the tallest gear the pumpkin would take without a carrier change. It really makes a difference in the 'put you back in the seat' and helps with towing a boat, etc.
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well thats good to know,
for starters I just want the thing to run, will probably get some cheap tires that are stock or near to it, then after given it a long period of thought maybe go bigger...
I do realize that if I go to a much larger tire a regear will be almost mandatory with the diesel engine and the stock gear being what they are..
right now I am plotting out several course of action from mild to wild
for starters I just want the thing to run, will probably get some cheap tires that are stock or near to it, then after given it a long period of thought maybe go bigger...
I do realize that if I go to a much larger tire a regear will be almost mandatory with the diesel engine and the stock gear being what they are..
right now I am plotting out several course of action from mild to wild
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these tires and rims are the rigth price and look good, but I don't think they would be able to turn without at least a 4-6 inch lift
and the size would probably need a gear ratio change
my question is, will the axles hold up? Its not going to eba an extreme 4x4, just driven in the winter and stuff, maybe out hunting, but not rockcrawler or hard core mudding.
just think it would look cool with the hummer tires on it.. and a lift
and the size would probably need a gear ratio change
my question is, will the axles hold up? Its not going to eba an extreme 4x4, just driven in the winter and stuff, maybe out hunting, but not rockcrawler or hard core mudding.
just think it would look cool with the hummer tires on it.. and a lift
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AJMBLAZER
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DON'T buy ANYTHING from Alfa Heaven. Do a search for them...you'll see why.
No, your axles are basically on borrowed time with anything past 35's and even light offroading. Plenty of folks have blown up 10 bolts with smaller tires and daily driving. Especially the rear Grenade-Lock "locker".
With the 3.08 gears, diesel, and no-OD I'd say you could easily spin 33's. I have 32's on my civy '89 K5 with a diesel, OD transmission, and 3.73's and I kinda wish I had gone bigger because even with the OD it is a bit low geared.
Only problem is the tires generally get wider as you go taller. However there are 33x10.5R15's and 35x10.5R15's. I went with 16" wheels because I got a deal on a set with the correct backspacing for these trucks and not the later GM IFS trucks. These allowed me to purchase a set of 265/75R16 muds that had a great price. Works out to about a 32x10.5R16.
Oh, and Colorado K5 - Full-Size GM 4x4 Restoration and Off Road Community is the Mecca for modifying this generation GM fullsize truck.
No, your axles are basically on borrowed time with anything past 35's and even light offroading. Plenty of folks have blown up 10 bolts with smaller tires and daily driving. Especially the rear Grenade-Lock "locker".
With the 3.08 gears, diesel, and no-OD I'd say you could easily spin 33's. I have 32's on my civy '89 K5 with a diesel, OD transmission, and 3.73's and I kinda wish I had gone bigger because even with the OD it is a bit low geared.
Only problem is the tires generally get wider as you go taller. However there are 33x10.5R15's and 35x10.5R15's. I went with 16" wheels because I got a deal on a set with the correct backspacing for these trucks and not the later GM IFS trucks. These allowed me to purchase a set of 265/75R16 muds that had a great price. Works out to about a 32x10.5R16.
Oh, and Colorado K5 - Full-Size GM 4x4 Restoration and Off Road Community is the Mecca for modifying this generation GM fullsize truck.
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Cucvnut
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but you have to pay to see most of CK5's stuff 
AJMBLAZER
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Best $25 I spend every year on my truck.
Besides, the garage is free and most of the tech is in there anyways.
Besides, the garage is free and most of the tech is in there anyways.
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hmmm,,
sounds liek I should just leave this one close to stock then
keep my eyes open for a 1008
sounds liek I should just leave this one close to stock then
keep my eyes open for a 1008
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Maybe Helpful
A regear for the 1009 would probably do you good if you used it only for the uses you stated. If you want to go the re-build/gear route, make sure you check out all of the running gear (internals) if you decide to go this route.
The truck I changed gears from 3.42 to 3.73 on cost me about $1500.00 in parts. The reason for the high price was changing axles, bearings, seals, along with the new gears for both the front and rear axles. After inspection, you might get by cheaper.
You can spend this and keep what you have, or spend about the same amount (+/-) on a 1008.
Your choice...
Hope this helps
A regear for the 1009 would probably do you good if you used it only for the uses you stated. If you want to go the re-build/gear route, make sure you check out all of the running gear (internals) if you decide to go this route.
The truck I changed gears from 3.42 to 3.73 on cost me about $1500.00 in parts. The reason for the high price was changing axles, bearings, seals, along with the new gears for both the front and rear axles. After inspection, you might get by cheaper.
You can spend this and keep what you have, or spend about the same amount (+/-) on a 1008.
Your choice...
Hope this helps
Cucvnut
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I like norcal big dawgs there free and used to be part of Ck5 but became there own group
Cucvnut
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you can get a 14ff for under 200 bucks and i have a flat top knuckle if you want for your front 10 bolt to go cross over steering when you lift it. plus u can swap the 10 bolt over to 8 lug while you wait to get a M1008 for the Dana 60.
Personally, I think a M1008 is a bad idea for a trail rig, compared to a M1009. This is only based on my experience in Wa though, so your trials may be more full size ready.
If I was doing it, I would prolly do a shackle flip in the rear, and a AAL or new leaf pack up front, netting you a total of about 4 inches. I would then add something to your passenger side mirror so you can see your rear tire and avoid curbs. Shocks are then up to you, and I cant think of what else has to be done for a 3-4 inch lift.
Now, I drive like an old man on the streets, and almost never down the freeway, so I LOVE low gears. My 1975 C20 has a 350, non over drive trans, and 4.56, I love it! That is on 30 inch tires.
Things like re-gears are kinda expensive, and I wouldnt want to try one myself. So, I would be looking for a cheap M1008 that you can rip the axles out of, and then modify the rear to fit your truck. Shouldnt cost much to have done by the pros, or you can do it yourself. The other option is a rear 12 or 14 bolt that bolts right in. (Maybe a 1 ton suburban?) and pay to have 4.56s installed, then track down the front, which will be much easier to find.
So now we have 3-4 inches in the front, and 4 in the back, and 4.11-4.56 gears on 12 or 14 bolt axles. Hell ya your ready for some tires! If you plan on really off-roading hard, you want under a 35, but I think K-5s almost always look too big for the tires, unless the top is off. Idk why, but K5s can make ever 38s look small!
I would go with the 37 inch tires at this point. Yup, your going to have to some minor trimming, but they will look great! This will also give you a gear ratio that will be pretty good for Daily driving. Keep in mind, this is now a BIG truck, you will have difficulty parking!
The build I described though is in-expensive, and you should get decent fuel millage. I wouldnt re-gear a 10 bolt.... Not unless its in a sports car. Big tires+10 bolt=bad day
Idk, that is what I might do. I found that there were not enough places to take my civy K5 out to get it dirty, so I traded it for a jeep. Now, I am getting a M1008, and I plan on adding bigger tires, but it will be my DD, and the one that comes to rescue the jeep when I get stuck or broken.
I figure if the M1008 has a top speed of 55, with stock sized tires, then your new top speed would be right around 65.... If my information is correct. It might not be! I would also be far more ready to put a 700R4 in than try to re-gear it myself.... Which is my plan with the M1008 when I get it.
If I was doing it, I would prolly do a shackle flip in the rear, and a AAL or new leaf pack up front, netting you a total of about 4 inches. I would then add something to your passenger side mirror so you can see your rear tire and avoid curbs. Shocks are then up to you, and I cant think of what else has to be done for a 3-4 inch lift.
Now, I drive like an old man on the streets, and almost never down the freeway, so I LOVE low gears. My 1975 C20 has a 350, non over drive trans, and 4.56, I love it! That is on 30 inch tires.
Things like re-gears are kinda expensive, and I wouldnt want to try one myself. So, I would be looking for a cheap M1008 that you can rip the axles out of, and then modify the rear to fit your truck. Shouldnt cost much to have done by the pros, or you can do it yourself. The other option is a rear 12 or 14 bolt that bolts right in. (Maybe a 1 ton suburban?) and pay to have 4.56s installed, then track down the front, which will be much easier to find.
So now we have 3-4 inches in the front, and 4 in the back, and 4.11-4.56 gears on 12 or 14 bolt axles. Hell ya your ready for some tires! If you plan on really off-roading hard, you want under a 35, but I think K-5s almost always look too big for the tires, unless the top is off. Idk why, but K5s can make ever 38s look small!
I would go with the 37 inch tires at this point. Yup, your going to have to some minor trimming, but they will look great! This will also give you a gear ratio that will be pretty good for Daily driving. Keep in mind, this is now a BIG truck, you will have difficulty parking!
The build I described though is in-expensive, and you should get decent fuel millage. I wouldnt re-gear a 10 bolt.... Not unless its in a sports car. Big tires+10 bolt=bad day
Idk, that is what I might do. I found that there were not enough places to take my civy K5 out to get it dirty, so I traded it for a jeep. Now, I am getting a M1008, and I plan on adding bigger tires, but it will be my DD, and the one that comes to rescue the jeep when I get stuck or broken.
I figure if the M1008 has a top speed of 55, with stock sized tires, then your new top speed would be right around 65.... If my information is correct. It might not be! I would also be far more ready to put a 700R4 in than try to re-gear it myself.... Which is my plan with the M1008 when I get it.
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If I regear I will be doing it myself, I have a lot of mechanical friends who could walk me through it too.
AJMBLAZER
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Make sure you know someone who knows how to do it.
It's definitely a "if you have to ask, pay someone to do it" skill. Very easy to screw things up and end up with $400 worth of broken parts if installed incorrectly.
It's definitely a "if you have to ask, pay someone to do it" skill. Very easy to screw things up and end up with $400 worth of broken parts if installed incorrectly.
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well seeing as I just added a engine to the pile I have about 1000 worth of parts in a pile right now
wish I had seen the GL list stuff before I bought mine, seen some nice ones on there, how much do they usually sell for on the GL?
wish I had seen the GL list stuff before I bought mine, seen some nice ones on there, how much do they usually sell for on the GL?
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well a friend of mine is the BMO, and he was pretty sure anything I needed done to the truck he could do, he was mad I didn't bring the engien to him for a rebuild. I had to tell him I was in a bit of a hurry to get it running on its own so I could move it around some before I left on my trip.
Cucvnut
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why would you get rid of 4:56 gears ? if you go with a larger tire it cuts down the 4:56 gears so you have lower rpm's and higher top speed on the street. if you go any higher with a 3:08 10 bolt would be usless. they will break. i would rock the 10 bolts untill you buy a M1008 for the axles. and lift it after you get the axles because why do it twice when your right there with the axles out anyways ?